Hey all. Can anyone tell me where I can purchase a molly 6 or 8 point roll bar (not a cage) for my 68? Thanks, Bill.

Try S&W

http://www.swracecars.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=57&cat=8+Point+Roll+Bars+%2D+Moly

A bar is only good for 11.00 and slower. I thought your car was running low 11's already. I bought my cage from Chris Alston. They make moly cages but they're bars are only available in mild steel.

Sorry but that is not correct. A roll bar is good to 10.0 if your car has a stock firewall.

Sorry but that is not correct. A roll bar is good to 10.0 if your car has a stock firewall.

Yep, you are correct. Stock firewall lets you run 10.00 with just a bar. :clonk:

sorry if I get the post side tracked, but why would a stock firewall mater? I can not see their reasoning behind that
what would you do to a firewall that would make it less safe? I guess if you cut huge holes in it but is that normal? I guess I am used to seeing smoothed firewalls, that would be twice as safe it think, the stock layer and then a second firewall

Not sure what NHRA / IHRA's logic is but I think its because the firewall is a big part of the structure of the car. When you modify it you alter and potentially weaken the structure of the car.

This one is a little of a hot button for me personally because last year there was a guy ahead of me in line at tech who was getting the third degree for claiming low 10's and only having a roll bar. The inspector said he needed a cage and I (not ever being able to mind my own business and keep my mouth shut LOL) jumped in and helped the guy defend himself. In the end the inspector got out the NHRA rule book and it clearly mentioned the firewall thing.

Get this . . . my friend bought a brand new '06 Vette. It is absolutely BONE STOCK and he needs a roll bar because it runs mid 13's and its a convertible.

NHRA states convertibles need a roll bar, regardless of ET. A cage for 9.99 seconds or 135 mph.

Interesting -- tech told him he could run it as long as he didn't go faster than 13.99. He ran mid 13's all night long and they never bothered him.

Hmm,

Interesting -- tech told him he could run it as long as he didn't go faster than 13.99. He ran mid 13's all night long and they never bothered him.

According to the rulebook you need a rollbar in a convertible if you run 13.49 or quicker.

According to the rulebook you need a rollbar in a convertible if you run 13.49 or quicker.

This is correct, it used to be 13.99 or quicker before the changes made regarding bars. You do however have to wear a helmet, regardless of ET.

I think tech needs to read the rulebook . . .

It's my understanding that moly, although lighter, has a limited life span. It work hardens over time and can crack.
Mild steel is preferred for cars like ours. (From Dave Morgan's Chassis Builders Handbook)
I don't know if you have 9's in your future, but you may wish to install a full cage with bars through the firewall. Much stiffer than a bar, and will help the chassis tuning.
A full cage can be all 1 5/8 tubing. If you build judt a bar, it will need to be 1 3/4" tubing. When you convert a bar to a cage, the cage addition can be 1 5/8 tubing.

I would consider Art Morrison as a source.
Be advised, these "kits" require quite a lot of fabrication to install.

Ron

Crap, I forgot I posted this thread. Been kinda busy. LOL. After alot of debating, I came to the conclusion that I don't want more bar/cage than I have to have. So the 6 point is coming. Now Ron, I haven't heard about the c/m work hardening. That is definately something I will look into. I am going to tig the bar in the car either way so I thought I might as well run c/m to save a few pounds since it's the same amount of labor. I own a fab & welding shop so I'm used to the fab work. I don't plan on running 9's with my goals of pump gas, n/a, non-tubbed, dot tires & my small block. Chassisworks doesn't & won't build a c/m bar. Just a cage. Looks like S&W or Morrison. Thanks guys. Bill.