New one piece floor pan R/R $9000 dollars.....:confused:


Help me understand this... replace floor pan 9 G. All new Dynacorn body Or have mustle metal do a comple rebody on my car 13-14k
Now how can sombody jusstify 9 grand for a new floor?

BTW my car is not collectable...

:sad: I know there in business to make a profit but holy cow!! I would do it yourself of go elsewhere.

Just my .02

Not right at all! $2k would be high end and fairly correct job here and we have the highest labor cost around...

Holy crap!! That's just wrong!! I'm with Dennis, $2k tops.

Do it yourself.


One piece floor...CHECK
Air chisel...CHECK
Jack stands...CHECK
Compressor.....CHECK
Bandaids......CHECK
Mig welder,a whole weekend,and a FULL cooler of beer...

Yep, got all you need on this list :):)

:beers:

Seriously though,you should do it yourself....

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/belairbobs/69floorsin3.jpg

I don't have an itemized bill from the body shop, but I supplied the floor pans, and it was something like 20-25 hours labor x 60/hr

Provided you have a place to do it, you could buy a nice air compressor and mig welder...do it yourself, and save a load of cash. It takes a certain kind of person to do this type of work though. I have replaced the 2 rear floor pans on my car and I can't say it was fun, but it is nice to tell people that I did it.

There is a good step by step how to...
http://www.daves68camaro.com/floorpan.php

Everything I've read, they all say it wasn't too hard but it was very time consuming though.

for 9k, I'll buy a welder and compressor and take a vacation in New England... :)

You and me both, Buck :D For 9k I could fly up there, buy a welder and tools there and at least youd get a free welder with it for 9k, X :D

There is a good step by step how to...
http://www.daves68camaro.com/floorpan.php

Everything I've read, they all say it wasn't too hard but it was very time consuming though.

for 9k, I'll buy a welder and compressor and take a vacation in New England... :)



This link is great, but do yourself a favor, bring the floor in from the bottom..A whole lot less work, and a better end result- no need to cut the new pan...

To me, it sounds like a "I don't want to do it for you, but if you insist on me doing it...." price.

To me, it sounds like a "I don't want to do it for you, but if you insist on me doing it...." price.

The GoodMark service center charges about $1200 to R&R the full floor, plus the cost of the floorpan.... You could ship it to and from Georgia, have the work done, and still have plenty of cash left over....

Not plugging them, but just wanted to show an example of some alternative pricing...


http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/GIC.htm

Doing all of the work on your cars yourself not only saves you a bundle of money but gives you a great sense of pride in the work you have done. All you need is a floor pan, used HTP MIG welder ($300-500), and a Chinese made Parker Plasma tech 40 plasma cutter. You might think because its Chinese made its junk, but I have replaced every piece of sheet metal except for the roof, rear panel, firewall which were solid. After all of that it never skipped a beat and has worked just as well as the first day it was used.

I agree with Christropher, I really don't want to do it but your gonna pay if I have to attitude. It sounds like we all believe you can do alot better on the price.
Thats 150hrs @ $60/hr. I might even be able to do it in that time frame and I've never welded a lick in my life.

It's maybe a $1500 - < $2000 job to do. I priced out several options a couple of years ago on my car before doing floor pan work. I ended up only replacing a few same pieces instead of the entire floor, so in the end it wasn't that bad a job, but I won't be quiting my day job anytime soon to become a professonal welder.

Are you sure he's not striping and painting your our car too!?!?!

Get a second and third price. How can you compare anything?

He has every right to ask what he wants and you have every right to go somewhere else. No sense complaining about it.

Some of the good shops have so much work they can command any price they ask because they think the are worth it and maybe they are.

Better check out anyone you hire to do the work, you never know what kind of shop they are. You just might have someone with less skill then you have, working on it.

You get what you pay for.

I want to add to what I said earlier... You don't need to pay $9000 to have floors replaced. Like I said about $2000 should get a very good job. The amount of dis-assembly and re-assembly, installing carpet etc could impact that too.

Now if you take your Camaro to a shop that typically only does high end restorations like COPO's, Yenko's, ZL1's etc where every weld is a re-creation of what the factory did back in the day and they were using NOS floors etc then the cost of the job will indeed jump drastically...

The phrase, "bend over, I'll drive" comes to mind...........:)

Not a floor but I recently had the complete trunk area done including new frame rails. I supplied the parts. The complete rear trunk sheet metal, rear axle, mufflers, springs, shocks, gas tank, all had to be removed. everything from the top of the rear seat including frame rails, shock towers, drop down panels, filler panels and the trunk pan were replaced. Seams were welded and painted, new bushings and gas tank hardware, sealed and primered.
This all cost me about 2100 including all the parts. The labour was 35 hours at about 35 dollars an hour. This was done in a fully equiped private home shop, and was all cash! The results are beyond my expectations. All I had to do was paint the trunk spatter and seal it.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/Stewz/finishedtrunk.jpg.
So I don't think a floor would be much more work.
I would say that 9000 should get you all the body AND paint.

Stewie - Labor rates on body work are about $90 - $100 per hr here... Your 35 hrs of labor would cost you about $3500 and add your parts and materials...

It took 10 - 12 hrs to have left and right pans installed in my Nova. The hump, floor braces and seat rails were solid and the pans were each cut into 2 pieces and patched in. I wish I could get body work done for $35 per hr here...

Sounds liek alot of the local body shops around me. There happens to be a guy who has a camaro restoration shop near me, and he charges a premium price indeed. Well it seems the local body shop guys are also trying to charge more because of him. I actually had one quote me 3k for 2 quarter panels w/me providing the all the sheet metal (this is quarters only, wheeltubs are solid). He then said well Joe down the road would charge you around 4k.

I am pretty good with a mig, but never did quarters b4, but figure at these prices I would just go nice and slow like alot the write ups on here explain.

Dave: I know I got a great deal. Those prices are the same here, but as I said it was a private fully equipped home shop. And I doubt any of the money would be declared as income for the taxman. The fellow also did most of the chassis work on my friend Don Wattie's 67 Trans Am Race car. The Gulf Car. It recently sold for 325K at an auction in Illinois. The fellow was recovering from a severe illness and had to close his Chassis shop. I was lucky to get him to do the work on a part time basis. I had budjeted 2000 to 2500 for labour before I found him. He really only worked on it 3 or 4 hours a day, and not everyday.

I paid $25 an hour to have a couple of quarters welded on that I had fitted. He did a nice job, but he also told me he is getting ready to go up to $50 an hour soon.

Ok here is the scoop. I am 90% sure I am going to be doing this myself. I was seraching the post here and decided that I needed a 220 welder. I wanted to price out the cost of having it done vs having 220 ran to my garage plus a welder just to make sure that I was not spending $$ that I could just as easily spend having a Pro do it (I have little to no Mig welds under my belt). Upon reviewing the estimate I found some silly #'s e.g 50 hrs to weld in the pan, 12 hrs to R & r the interior (not sure why this was even there the interior is already out) 8 hrs to cut out the old floor...( shouln't a Pro have a plasma cutter? = 15 mins... 12 hrs in paint time 4 hrs to R & r the exaust (I have side pipes take about 10 mins to unbolt) (Oh yeah I bought it that way and they are going ASAP) the Rate is $65 for most tasks and 85 for others. He has a few hrs for clear coat time and all sorts of things that dont make sense. Root cause may be that he has the girl in the office write it up but I hope this is just an ofice Mis Queue cause for 4 more grand I would just buy a complte body from dynacorn...

just did one on a 69 and it was the easiest part of the whole resto.had maybe 12hrs in the whole thing from start to finish. i'm with everybody else do it yourself and take pride in saying you did it,it's not that hard.

New one piece floor pan R/R $9000 dollars.....:confused:


Help me understand this... replace floor pan 9 G. All new Dynacorn body Or have mustle metal do a comple rebody on my car 13-14k
Now how can sombody jusstify 9 grand for a new floor?

BTW my car is not collectable...

Maybe he quoted replacing from the floor up?

I think the hours that were quoted were missing a decimal point.

50 Hours to weld in the floor pan????

You don't need a 220v welder for sheet metal... A Miller 135 will work perfectly and is around $500.00.

I did some searching around on this site and the consensous is that I need 220. However I have spoken to quite a few folks. Specifially I spoke to Tony @ http://www.musclecarmetal.com/ who bascally told me he rebuilds cars from the bottom up wilth a miller 135 110 volt. He actually told me 220 was a bad idea beacuse I would have to power it all the way down and still may burn through. I think i decided on a Lincon 3200 from Home depot unless someone tells me otherwise.

I did some searching around on this site and the consensous is that I need 220. However I have spoken to quite a few folks. Specifially I spoke to Tony @ http://www.musclecarmetal.com/ who bascally told me he rebuilds cars from the bottom up wilth a miller 135 110 volt. He actually told me 220 was a bad idea beacuse I would have to power it all the way down and still may burn through. I think i decided on a Lincon 3200 from Home depot unless someone tells me otherwise.

He (Tony)is probably right on the voltage. I have an old Millermatic 200 Mig,and seldom turn it past the third setting, 6 being the highest. Even at setting three, I sometimes get burn through on the thin stuff. It was great for welding the Pro Street chassis together though,which was heavy gauge mild steel. Gotta have ample heat on the heavy gauge stuff.For the sheetmetal, we used a Hobart Handler Mig, which was 135/110 volt as well. Have never used a Lincoln, but have had great luck with Miller and Hobart products.

I did some searching around on this site and the consensous is that I need 220. However I have spoken to quite a few folks. Specifially I spoke to Tony @ http://www.musclecarmetal.com/ who bascally told me he rebuilds cars from the bottom up wilth a miller 135 110 volt. He actually told me 220 was a bad idea beacuse I would have to power it all the way down and still may burn through. I think i decided on a Lincon 3200 from Home depot unless someone tells me otherwise.

Don't buy a 110 welder from home depot.

Those 110 welders (Lincoln, Hobart, Miller, Esab) don't have the power to weld most projects safely. While a 110 welder would work fine sheet metal, they won't provide enough heat penetration to hold many heavier guage projects properly.

Before anyone jumps in and starts an argument, I own a welding company with over 30+ machines and 45 employees. For my home, I use a Miller 225 ($1900) wired 220 single phase with a dryer plug.

This crap about turning down a 220 machine as far as it will go to weld sheet metal is non sense. A little below mid range is about perfect. I just did sheet metal welding on my car this weekend.

If your budget doesn't afford buying a 220 machine than that's a different story. if you need help finding a place to pick up a welder at a decent price them send me a PM. My vendor has outlets in every major US city.
They might have used mig welders with a warranty as well.

Good Luck,

Rich

One last thing on these 110 welders. The liner (torch) in these little machines always fail. if you wrap the cord (torch) to tight it will damage the inside of the liner and it won't feed the wire right. It's an inherent problem with these little wire feeders.

We use to have a couple Lincoln SP135 welders. We used them for welding handrails in the field. They would last about 6 months to a year. That's 20-30 uses per unit.

Rich

Hi

I have a 110 Lincoln , been using it for the past 2 years , no problems so far.
I am in the process of doing my floor and fire wall , the welds are solid . I had a welder who has over 20 years in welding to take a look in doing some of the harder work , he sees no problem with a 110 welder.

My 2 cents

Thanks

Hi

I have a 110 Lincoln , been using it for the past 2 years , no problems so far.
I am in the process of doing my floor and fire wall , the welds are solid . I had a welder who has over 20 years in welding to take a look in doing some of the harder work , he sees no problem with a 110 welder.

My 2 cents

Thanks

Like I said................. Welding sheet metal a 110 welder "will work" but that's about it limitations. The duty cycle on that welder is about 20% and IMHO are a waste of money. If your going to be in this hobby you need to invest in quality tools. Those little lincoln wire feeders are not quality welders.

If your budget only affords a 110 welder then go for it. i would recommend buying a used a 220 welder for the same amount of money and have a little versatility.

The thought of spending $500 - $800 on a welder that's basically only good for sheet metal makes my head spin. :clonk:

My local rep just stopped by my office. I could get you a Miller model 212 (220 single phase) for $1200.

I think the home depot welders are like $700

Let me know if I can help.

Rich