I am about to goto school to learn how to work on cars. The first course is the drive train. I have a list of parts that I believe that would work well togeather. I have a 1968 Camaro R/S with a non numbers matching 350 V8, T350 automatic transmission, and a 10bolt rear end. The goal is to have a fast and fun car to drive on weekends and to shows. I want to build the 350 to the 400-450 HP/TQ range on 93 octane pump gas. As you look through my list of parts please keep in mind that I have never peiced a engine togeather like this. I will be doing the work under the supervision of a Master Mechanic. Please inform me if I am missing parts or putting the wrong parts on there.
Parts:
· Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Camshaft
o Camshaft & Lifter Kit
o Lift: .489''/.504''
o Duration: 268°/276°
o RPM Range: 1800-6200
· Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal Engine Rebuild Kit
· Crane Cams Cam Locking Plate & Bolts
· Crane Cams Valve Train Kit (Jegs part #270-11750-16K)
· Edelbrock Performer Vortec Intake Manifold
· Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS 800 CFM Carb
· Edelbrock Performer E-Tec 170 Cylinder Heads
· Jegs/Hooker/Flowmaster Complete Exhast Kit (Jegs part #: 520-2131-1K4)
· Race Ready Performance Dual Electric Cutouts
· MSD Street Fire SB Ignition System
· TCI Breakaway Torque Converter 2200-2400 RPM
· TCI Heavy Duty Flexplate
· TCI Valve Body Performance Improvement Kit
· 3.73 or 4.10 rear end gears
is it realistic to get 400-450HP/TQ on a 350 or should I concider supercharging or stroking?
Thanks!!

I noticed you mentioned using a Vortec intake, this means you are using Vortec heads? If so that cam will not work without modifying the heads. Stock vortec heads allow a max lift between .420-.430. They can be machined to take more but that costs more money. If you have vortec heads already use them, if you are buying new heads find something else. That cam may be on the big side for street use anyway. Are you using the stock crank in the block now or buying a stroker?

OOP.. I just saw you did mention what heads you are using...

nothing is set in stone...i am just looking to make the most amount of power out of this 350...i am planning on keeping the bottom end whatever is in there. i just have a 350 block that doesnt have any power. any suggestions?

I would suggest ditching the electric cut outs, I have heard nothing good about them. for one they don't seal well which gives you a constant exhaust leak

and the 4.10 or 3.73 and a trans without overdrive will suck on the freeway

but, im not an engine builder, so no comment on that stuff

oh wait, get a holley carb!

Good combo, I think carb is too big, go for a 600-650 cfm. If planning on no OD, 3.7/4.1 will give you about 3000-3300 rpm at 60 mph.

so should i look for a new heads/intake combo or look for a new camshaft because of the clearence issues.

what about the Holley SysteMax system? here is what is included:
Matched component engine kit, dyno tested and proven combinations designed to provide you with increased performance with bolt-on parts. Includes Lunati hydraulic camshaft, Holley dual-plane aluminum intake, double-roller timing chain set and assembly lube, fully assembled Holley aluminum heads, hardened pushrods and ARPr head bolts.

Camshaft specifications:
Valve Lift: .490/.490 Duration: 290/297
Duration @ 0.050": 235/240
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
what kind of idle could i expect with this cam? would it be on the rough side?

Smooth idle, the wider the LSA, the smoother the idle, to a limit.

im really looking for a rough idle so maybe that kit isnt for me

from what I hear AFR have some amazing heads, I would look into getting them
and once you have everything picked out just call Lunati and see what they recommend

the AFR heads, while amazing, are too expensive.. i am really looking to spend about $1100 - 1200 for the pair. thanks for the tip about calling lunati when that time comes...should i concider stroking the 350? if i stroke it to 383 will this completely change my parts choices?

Good combo, I think carb is too big, go for a 600-650 cfm. If planning on no OD, 3.7/4.1 will give you about 3000-3300 rpm at 60 mph.

Agreed the carb is WAY too big. 650 will work fine.

Carb is too big, you won't need more than a 650. What heads do you have now? Without knowing your current compression it's hard to pick a cam. Without touching the bottom end, you're stuck with your current pistons. You'll want to know if they are flat, dished, or domed before you chose a cam and heads.

even if i stroke it to 383 that carb is too big....i didnt think it was possible to introduce too much air and fuel into a engine..is that not what makes power??

also, i found a 10 bolt posi trac rear end on ebay....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-Chevelle-10-Bolt-Positraction-Unit_W0QQitemZ200130731831QQihZ010QQcategoryZ6760Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

can anyone tell if its any good?

even if i stroke it to 383 that carb is too big....i didnt think it was possible to introduce too much air and fuel into a engine..is that not what makes power??
Scott..Keep in mind that a carb is passive.It requires a certain level of velocity thru the venturis to meter air fuel (A/F) correctly.If your booster signal is low..proper atomization is not achieved and raw fuel will seperate from the air stream.Your cyl heads,valve timing events,bore/stroke,static CR,intake manifold design,etc,etc all dictate.Build your total combo to match your needs and then size the appropriate carb.Remember..the carb only responds to what is beneath it.

I think I can be a world of help. I built a 350 a few years ago and will gladly give all the specs. My engine dynoed at 410 hp and 470 ft lbs. I stroked my 350 to a 383 their is no replacement for displacement. I believe your carb is to big, when a carb is to big you loose volocity and your air to fuel mixture will be off. Just think of removing a carb and dumping fuel into the engine out of a gas can, that is what you are doing with a carb that is to big, your acting against atomization. Anyways i used a eagle rotating assemble with keith black hypertetic pistons. Remember with a stroker their is more machining to be done. With the big crank the pan rails need to be notched and connecting rods need the edge to be cut off. I used the heads you are looking at the e-tech 170s witch are a great head(.575 max lift). I originally had this engine in a truck the 170 flow better for torque. Know since it is going into a car I would have purchased the 200s the better balance my hp and torque. I then installed a comp cam with 490 lift and 232 duration at .50 both int and exh. It is not listed in summit but they have a lot more parts than they can list. I used 1.6 ratio rockers, an air gap manifold and a demon 750 double pumper, which had to be jetted down on the dyno, a 650 cfm would have been perfect. Also my compression ratio is only 9.6 to 1 and with aluminum heads I think you could safetly run 10.5 on 93 octane since they dissapate heat better. For your cam performance and sound I would go onto comp cams website, they have a cam tech. You put in all your engine info and they email you back. hope this helps.

thanks for all the info...i didnt realize all you guys mentiined about carbs...i would love to see your specs cat anything to point me in the right direction would be great. i have read 3 books about making a performance 350/383 but they all basicly say dont do this or do this and then the other book says to not do what the other book said to do...its just confusing....sort of silly because the books are made by the same manufacturer but different authurs...

i am looking at the Eagle Rod assemblies are they good?