I just got a reproduction cowl induction set for my 69 Camaro. I am having some difficulty with the switch on the throttle bracket. The directions leave alot to be desired. They show the switch going through one side with the small round metal clip coming in from the opposite side. I am having a heck of a time fitting these two parts together. Does anyone have a trick on how this is done, maybe a picture? I could sure use the help. I don't want to break anything. Thanks Ed

I'll see if I have a pic of mine when I get home from work Ed. If not I'll try and take one for you but my photo skills are lacking.

See the Assembly Manual, section ZL2, Sheet A2; press the split metal retainer sleeve into the hole in the accelerator lever from the rear, then push the switch into the sleeve from the front. Push the switch in all the way, then push the lever back against the firewall until it bottoms out - that adjusts the switch to close at WOT and energize the solenoid that opens the flapper valve. Hope you got the GM switch - the repros don't last very long.

:beers:

How are the repro cowl inductions systems? I'm thinking about getting one as the originals are near impossible to find. What the major differances?

Just installed a repro cowl induction frame and valve (flapper, door) assembly with repro solenoid. Works ok, decided to safety wire the 3 plastic retainers (clips) which hold the flapper to the frame 'cause they seemed like they could pop off, seems like they're made a bit small so they barely catch, either that or the openings on the frame are a bit too large?
Had to pull the solenoid back a bit from the flapper to leave enough room to securely install the boot past the end of frame which holds the solenoid. This limits the travel of the door to about 45 degrees when door opens.
Is this normal or should the door open closer to 90 degrees which would be full open.

I don't know if it's been improved since I got mine, but there is an interference problem between the hole in the repop accelerator lever, the spring sleeve, and the repop solenoid switch. I FORCED one switch in, and it exploded in my hands. I got a replacement, and it was just as bad (but I learns good, so I didn't force it) I ended up filing the hole just a tad bit bigger and got the assembly together.

I haven't purchased a GM switch, as it seems like someone told me it is slightly smaller than the repop, so by filing out the hole, I made it so my repop lever will not hold a GM switch. Not sure if that's true, but I haven't messed with it. Thought I'd wait until the switch goes, and then check the problem...but my engine is out, so I guess now would be a good time.

Anyone know if I would need to replace the filed out lever to work with a GM switch?

So far the sleeve does seem a bit tight on the switch, I'll double check and let you know. Otherwise thanks for the tip.
Don't suppose you recall how far your flapper door opens?
When I did a dry fit and had the solenoid prong, which the electrical plugs hooks to, almost against the metal ring retainer the door opened a bit farther. When I realized the plug would not slip on completely I slid the solenoid out a bit to clear the rubber boot. Still opens ok but to about 45 degrees, half of full open.
Anyone?

i agree. repop switch sucks. mine didnt last one start up. i had to take it apart and fix it.

Just fitted the switch to accelerator lever and fit was good, a little tricky getting started but once on ok. Tested and everything works awesome. Still not certain how far door should open?
Hopefully won't fail too soon.

Door should open fully. 90 deg from closed.

90 degrees? then the repop frame or solenoid are muffed up. I'll have to hunt for a used one.
thanks,

Door should open fully. 90 deg from closed.
Is this statement from something you've personally seen recently or an assumption?
After a little research not sure if thats a true statement. I'm gonna have to check further.
thanks for the response though, I'll let you know what I come up with.

Going by how mine works. Looking at back of hood though window, my flapper door is almost horiz when open. I guess if you figure in the angle of the flapper door when the hood is down, it might not be a full 90 deg, but it is horiz.
Did you try moving the door with the solenoid off. How much movement did you have? If I get out there today, I shoot a pic from inside the car.

Thanks for the input Dennis, without the solenoid it definitely opens completely horizontal but is limited with the solenoid attached. Be cool if you could get a pic, I'll try and do the same.

Yeah, the door should open all the way. Also even original GM clips tend to pop out and leave the door hanging loose. I had to buy some extra clips but the fix is to apply a touch of weather-stip adheasive to the clip before installing them. After 30 years, I still have the opened bag of GM clips with two remaining.
Edit; Ou, ou! The solenoid! Many of these are adjustable by turning the plunger. Give it a try. It might unscrew to the needed length.

Thanks Fred, like I mentioned earlier I just ran a single strand of safety wire and tied it in the back or solenoid side of the door, very secure and you cant even see it.
Didn't think about turning the plunger out, if I'm motivated enough to pull the frame and valve assembly out again I'll try that.
I did however realize that because of the rake or angle the assy sits at when installed, 90 degrees would actually be too far since it seems the door only needs to open to parallel with the hood line, mine is just a couple degrees short of that so it's actually pretty close.
Do you know if the 73-75 corvette frame, door and solenoid assembly is the same as the 69 Camaro's? They sure look extremely close. Need to check the part numbers in a 73-75 Corvette Factory Assy Manual and see if they're the same as a 69 Camaro's.
Anyone have one?

Does anyone have a photo on how the plunger switch (throttle) attaches to the body?

thanks

alan

Does anyone have a photo on how the plunger switch (throttle) attaches to the body?

thanks

alan

The switch doesn't attach to the body - it attaches with a retainer clip to a hole in a tab welded to the accelerator lever. See section ZL2, sheet A2 in the Assembly Manual. :thumbsup:

Thanks John, I will check it out when I get home tonight.

alan

Just completed the install, all to factory specs per the FAM, works nice, had to remove the coil w/ bracket and the left valve cover and temporarily safety wire the accelerator pedal under the dash so it would not move to install the accelerator lever, still very difficult to access but doable, did not remove hood either to install flapper valve assembly. Drilling the hole through the firewall above the fuse box was also challenging without removing the brake booster, done from the inside and also a tight fit but doable. Door opens very close to parallel with hood line or just about horizontal which is about 45 degrees of fully open due to angle valve assembly sits at when installed. Whole job took about 5 hours spread out over 3 days. Fun stuff!!

Thanks for the update Mel. Now you have, what Hotrod Magazine called, the best looking hood ever made. Hard to argue.
http://epitomesrebuild.com/images/248.JPG

Here here!! actually hood was on the car when I bought the car 10 years ago, now its functional. Sweet ride Fred!! Is it an original big block car?

Fred!! Is it an original big block car?

Don't get him started!! :)

Didn't I mention that on my web site Mel????
Yeah, original L78 car too.:hurray: Many of the outside-parts/mounts/wires (horn relay:D) are from the original engine.
Sorry unreal, he got me started.

Mel, this reminds me of a story,,,,,;)

Fred, viewed your website, nice job!!

Thanks Mel! My nephew finished welding my new fuel tank w/sump, and the header bung for the O2 sensor. I'll get the pictures up on my site ASAP. And Thanks again.

Just installed a repro cowl induction frame and valve (flapper, door) assembly with repro solenoid. Works ok, decided to safety wire the 3 plastic retainers (clips) which hold the flapper to the frame 'cause they seemed like they could pop off, seems like they're made a bit small so they barely catch, either that or the openings on the frame are a bit too large?
Had to pull the solenoid back a bit from the flapper to leave enough room to securely install the boot past the end of frame which holds the solenoid. This limits the travel of the door to about 45 degrees when door opens.
Is this normal or should the door open closer to 90 degrees which would be full open.

med size black zip ties work well instead of the clips.

Going by how mine works. Looking at back of hood though window, my flapper door is almost horiz when open. I guess if you figure in the angle of the flapper door when the hood is down, it might not be a full 90 deg, but it is horiz.
Did you try moving the door with the solenoid off. How much movement did you have? If I get out there today, I shoot a pic from inside the car.

my freinds pace car opens fully as well.....

Pulled the valve assembly out of the hood one last time and the linkage which is part of the solenoid and actually opens the flapper is a threaded rod. was able to turn it out and get the adjustment just right, valve now opens fully horizontal or parallel with the hood line.
BTW, identical frame, valve and solenoid used on 73-75 Corvettes, not sure about pre '73's.

Pulled the valve assembly out of the hood one last time and the linkage which is part of the solenoid and actually opens the flapper is a threaded rod. was able to turn it out and get the adjustment just right, valve now opens fully horizontal or parallel with the hood line.
BTW, identical frame, valve and solenoid used on 73-75 Corvettes, not sure about pre '73's.
:hurray:

Thanks for the pep rally Fred!! LOL!!

Not 100% sure if this is relevant to this thread, or it's already been sorted out, but here is something I posted a while ago.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88255&highlight=cowl+clip

How do you check if you have a bad solenoid. When I activate the accelerator switch I get about 12.75 volts at the wire to the solenoid, but the solenoid doesn't activate/move at all. Does the solenoid body act as the ground? Do I have to grind some paint from the frame assm for the body to ground out?

Yes the solenoid body needs to be grounded.
A star washer needs to be between the firewall and the solenoid to help metal to metal contact also.

If I put >12 volts to the solenoid, ensure the body is grounded and the solenoid doesn't move, does that mean I have a bad solenoid?

Sorry, about my post above.. I was thinking relay regarding the star washer..

Anyway, yes, I guess your solenoid could be bad. 12V should activate it.

Sorry, about my post above.. I was thinking relay regarding the star washer..

Anyway, yes, I guess your solenoid could be bad. 12V should activate it.
Steve! You're a little late. Because of your post I couldn't sleep. Got up and pulled the hood off because I couldn't remember a star washer. I sat all night holding my hood and apologizing to it.
:noway:

If I put >12 volts to the solenoid, ensure the body is grounded and the solenoid doesn't move, does that mean I have a bad solenoid?

The outside case on the solenoid must have clean metal-to-metal contact with the inside of the circular clamp on the hood in order to be grounded; no ground, no "click". :thumbsup: