i've seen some cars that have rubber hose clamps, not bands, on their radiator/water pump hoses. who makes them? they look real clean.

They are a product made by Gates. I've gotten them from McMaster-Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=247

Not vary practical if you ever have to replace a hose or just need to disconnect one to work on the engine...

thanks for info.

Not vary practical if you ever have to replace a hose or just need to disconnect one to work on the engine...

I completely disagree, respectfully of course. I have been doing the Gates clamps for years (over 10) on all kinds of applications... and they have more advantages than conventional clamps IMO.

First, they are very good looking. Second, they provide MORE clamping force than conventional clamps. Third, they can simply be cut carefully off with a knife, razor blade or their tool and replaced easily with a like one. Of course you need a heat gun or heat source. I carry a mini-torch and this will do it nicely. Forth.. it never damages the hose or leaves big indentations on the hose. Fifth. They never loosen or leak.

You can see them all over the place under the Camaro's hood here...

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e391/HOTRODSRJ/pict0259.jpg

You can see them on the 57 tooo!

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e391/HOTRODSRJ/57enginesm.jpg

I even use the small ones on fuel lines. They actually are tighter!

So, what's the problem? I think they are very practical!

Steve I never said they didn't work, look good etc. I think carrying a heat gun or portable torch as well as at least 4 spare clamps with you in case you need to replace a hose is impractical. As it is I have to over night mail clothing to the hotel i'm staying at when I travel in the ragtop. A reusable hose clamp keeps the tool list simple and saves room...

Ya I know guys that will carry a floor jack in their trunk and find that practicle. Two sides to every coin, right?

Ya I know guys that will carry a floor jack in their trunk and find that practicle

Now that's funny!

Actually, I travel quite a bit.. Florida, Charlotte, Indy, Columbus, even Texas GGs and many trips to Pigeon Forge... and have never had to replace one. ACtually I carry a minitorch to do shrink tubing in electrical issues. I have never used it on my cars.. but lots on others.

Also, even if I had real old-timey, obsolete metal clamps.. I would always carry two because you never know when these come apart I think we can all agree.

But, whatever.. ... let the masses decide.

Nice looking engine bay. Just wondering where I can pick up a air cleaner base plate that fits your cowl induction hood? I have a 69 RS Camaro with a Holley carb and would like to eliminate the hot engine bay air.

Thanks,

Jeff

For just a quick disconnect, I followed the same plan as CarlC and used Aeroquip Quick Disconnect Fittings... I think it looks nice.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d143/sej275/under%20hood/IMG_1137.jpg

Nice looking engine bay. Just wondering where I can pick up a air cleaner base plate that fits your cowl induction hood? I have a 69 RS Camaro with a Holley carb and would like to eliminate the hot engine bay air.

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff.. thanks for the kudos on the engine compartment! The air cleaner base that you see in that picture I designed and made from ..... are ya ready... are ya sitting down....it's a heavy duty baking pan! YEp.. 18"X 3" of heavy duty aluminum that is affixed to the air cleaner bottom plate.

Go here for more information for pan... http://www.lloydpans.com/productdisplay.aspx?catid=269&c=Round_Cake_Pans

I modelled the pan to offset on the aircleaner base by cutting a hole in the pan and affixed with rivets. Worked great! I also had to cut the top edge down as well a smiggin to meet the hood exactly. I left about 3/4 of an inch for the rubber gasket. I also powder coated the pan and base silver. Then bought the rubber edge (still have a piece of that... I would give it to you if you decide to go that way) that looked like the stock one.. or you could buy that piece from a supplier I guess.

Here's a slightly better picture...

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e391/HOTRODSRJ/PICT0277.jpg

Thanks for the "baking tip" on the carb. base. I am definitely interested in fabricating one. Is there anything else I need to successfully do it right the first time? Any specs are appreciated. Pictures during fabrication? etc.

One more question for you. Where did you get the upper radiator hose set up?

Thanks for all your help,

Jeff

Thanks for the "baking tip" on the carb. base. I am definitely interested in fabricating one. Is there anything else I need to successfully do it right the first time? Any specs are appreciated. Pictures during fabrication? etc.

Thanks for the PM too. I will post some information here (this thread... so everyone can see) soon, I was NOT good about taking pictures or recording exactly what I did... but will do my best to hook you up with the right parts and procedures.

One more question for you. Where did you get the upper radiator hose set up?

The upper hose assembly you see there in the last picture I fabricated from a Camaro upper hose.. and a mini-tube that I concocted on the autolathe. So, it's a custom piece and I got alot of questions about it.. and would NOT have even attempted it without the vary hose clamps subject of this thread. They are so clean that they allow that hose. You could do the same thing with a stainless 1.5" tube.

Carl Casinova and Mark Mutert have both done the cake pan air cleaner as well. Check out their pages...

http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/
http://home.earthlink.net/~mutert23

For just a quick disconnect, I followed the same plan as CarlC and used Aeroquip Quick Disconnect Fittings... I think it looks nice.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d143/sej275/under%20hood/IMG_1137.jpg

Hopefully I will see them next month. It looks good on yours, but not so good on mine I think.:D

If u use std stainless jubile clips and put the worm drive underneath
The cover with electical heat shrink...if u postion right when it shrinks it will also cover clean over the end on the hose
If out on the road, slice the shrink off, throw away...
Its no biggie to replace with a new peice later.

As far as they provide MORE clamping force than conventional clamps There is nothing wrong with correctly fitted clamps, so this is a non issue...and too much force damages the laminations of the hose.

I appreciate the info. A few more if you don't mind? Did you rivet the pan on the air cleaner base plate after CENTERING the air filter in the pan? OFFSET? How big was the hole you cut prior to riveting to the base plate? Did you have any distributor clearance issues? How much did you cut off the top of the pan? What is the final height of the pan with rubber molding?
And the final one, Do you remember what size the rubber molding is on the top? Part# McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.?

Thanks for your advice and time.

Jeff

Check my website, it's all there.

I appreciate the info. A few more if you don't mind? Did you rivet the pan on the air cleaner base plate after CENTERING the air filter in the pan? OFFSET? How big was the hole you cut prior to riveting to the base plate? Did you have any distributor clearance issues? How much did you cut off the top of the pan? What is the final height of the pan with rubber molding?
And the final one, Do you remember what size the rubber molding is on the top? Part# McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.?

Thanks for your advice and time.

Jeff

I appreciate the info. A few more if you don't mind? Did you rivet the pan on the air cleaner base plate after CENTERING the air filter in the pan? OFFSET? How big was the hole you cut prior to riveting to the base plate? Did you have any distributor clearance issues? How much did you cut off the top of the pan? What is the final height of the pan with rubber molding?
And the final one, Do you remember what size the rubber molding is on the top? Part# McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.?

Thanks for your advice and time.

Jeff

Jeff... sorry that I haven't posted more information on my project... but work has gotten in the way and others I notice are chiming in with their work.

Let me offer some of my takes here. Yes.. the pan will get rivoted to the pan. But, you WILL have to do some custom measuring with your pan and figure out your own offset (to the rear) how much of the pan will be frontward. This is because not all engines will set the same in the frame.. and carbs, intake variables and especially angle (I noticed that my engine did not have the angle of the others .. mine is only 4 degrees down in back with a 2 degree rake in the intake)...etc.

So, you will have to find your own hole opening in the pan with relationship to the aircleaner base. I would make a mock-up with cardboard or poster board first. That's pretty easy really.. make the poster board exactly like the pan. Then find your "centering point" in the hood hole. Tape the pan to the centering position on the hood. Next, put a short screw in the carb (that holds the aircleaner on) and put some wet paint on the top. Shut the hood ever-so-slowly and this will mark the relative center of the engine on the bottom of your posterboard pan. Then, cut the hole in the mock-up and fit it to the aircleaner with tape. Then set it on the carb... do the fitting yourself. The real hard part is getting the sitting height correct. You will have to leave some space between the pan top (which you WILL have to cut.. believe me) and put the "blubuous" strip on.

If you want my spare piece of correct strip (I think there is plenty)... you will have to email me and I will ship it to you for cost to ship.. that way you will have that mystery solved.

The hardest part will be cutting the round pan top off to your liking.

...

Thanks for the info. If you send me a PM, I will supply you with the shipping info. and I can send you a check first if you like.

Thanks again,

Jeff

Ok We Are Getting Closer To Fabrication. I Measured My Air Cleaner (14x3). I Have Less Than 1" To The Distributor And Less Than 1" To The Water Intake On The Manifold. I Made The Mark On The Hood As You Suggested And It Appears To Set Further To The Driver's Side (not Centered) On The Hood. Will A 14 " Pie Pan Work In Your Opinion With The 383 Motor I Have? Suggestions Are Always Welcome.

Thanks,

Jeff