i just got a motive power bleeder, seems like a nice deal!
the brake system on the car is all new, from master to wheel cylinders. the instructions say to do a dry test, bring the tank up to 10 psi, just to see if the pressure holds. then it says to fill the tank with fluid and bring it up the proper pressure for the car's brake system. check the sevice manual for the car. i don't know what that would be, i am an old pump the pedal guy! can any of you guys tell me what psi you used?
thanks!

15 to 20 psi is what I use.

BTW - I am not in love with this device.

thanks strick! why don't you like it? i saw all kinds of guys on the site say they loved it! thats why i bought one:confused:

20 PSI works just fine. I think it's an awesome tool. You can start with a dry sysytem and have it fully bled in under an hour without a helper. What's not to like about that?

Cheap chains, nightmare to get it to seal.

You are correct on that. Use a 6"' piece of 1" x 1" square tubing laid legthwise on top of the adapter and hold it in place with a large C-clamp. Works like a charm. I got the idea frome someone on this board.

EDIT - JohnZ to be exact
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80348&highlight=motive+bleeder

Geez Louise, nothing like a 20 ton shop press to hold on the pressure unit. Whoa!

I borrowed my dad's MightyVac power bleeder, it's very similar to the Motive one. Used it to bleed the hydraulic clutch in my truck. Worked like a charm and very fast.

Agree on the chains. A c-clamp works well. I too was able to quickly bleed a new brake system.

I hate that setup, for two reasons:

1. It forces compressed, wet air into a vat of brake fluid. Not a good idea if you intend to get the fluid hot.

2. When it doesn't seal against the MC, you get brake fluid all over your nicely painted fender. I still have fisheye on mine to prove it. It's ugly.

I have used every brake bleeder in the book. The only one that really works is a diaphragm-type power bleeder, which cost $300+ and seal correctly against the MC. I use a vacuum bleeder (uses a vacuum tranducer using compressed air) to get the fluid flow started, then I pump the pedal to get the air out. IMO, this is the best way to do it, works every time.

The one I used doesn't hook to the MC at all, it just sucks the fluid and air out at the bleeder. You just have to manually watch the MC fluid level. It may or may not have come with the parts that hook to the MC and keep the fluid level full, but I didn's ask him. I know both Motive and MightyVac sell them with or without those parts.

i was worried about getting the paint messed up. maybe i can put sheet plastic in the engine compartment to cover stuff:yes: i guess i should'nt even try the chains, i guess i will be looking for a big c-clamp tonight before i start. thanks for all the input!

I threw away the chains and got a couple pieces of swedged steel cable to use instead of chain .
works great every time!:thumbsup: