I REPLACED MY REAR END WITH A NINE INCH WITH NODULAR CASE, AND BIG DRUMS, i HAD AWESOME BRAKE WHEN I TOOK THE ORIGINAL REAR END OUT OF THIS CAR, NOW I CANT GET ANY BRAKES AT ALL IN THE REAR, I HAVE GRAVITY BLED THE REAR AND I HAD FLUID COMING OUT, I MASH THE PEDAL AND THE SHOES DO NOTHING, WHAT IS CAUSING THIS??

It sounds like you still have air in the system. Get a helper and bleed the brakes with the pedal.

Make sure your brake shoes are adjusted properly.

Didnt help!

Eric, I used a combination of first gravity bleeding, then using a miti-vac.
I had to move several QUARTS of brake fluid thru the system, so much that I was capturing it and re-using it rather than discarding it.

And then 2 weeks later I lost the pedal and had to do it again (very briefly).

Just keep at it. It will bleed out eventually. Tapping on lines and cylinders will help dislodge small bubbles.

If you have the combination valve that has the lil button on the back, you need to use a clamp to hold the button in, or use a bleeder method that will generate enough pressure to work that valve.

I assume you didn't let the master run dry at any point of the bleeding process - if so, you will need to bench bleed it. Also - in case not already checked them closely - make sure all your new connections/fittings are not leaking.

I know this might sound crazy but check the rubber hose at the rear alot of time they well collapse from the inside and will not allow fluid to pass

Do you get any movement of the brake shoes?
One thing I've heard is this:
You go to bleed the brakes and push the pedal to the floor, now the MC piston travels into the bore farther than it has in years, and goes into a corroded area that tears up the seal and it can't make pressure.

I'm not saying that's your problem, but it is something to keep in mind if everything else is good.

I usually try to bleed at the master cyl, if no bleeders are there, I crack the line fittings open and bleed them but be careful, they can squirt fluid on the paint!
David