Since adding the procharger the motor temp has been hotter. I have my water temp gauge in the head. Prior to the procharger the head water temp was almost always aroung 190 degrees. Since adding the procharger the head temp will climb to 230-235 degrees. I just put a laser temp gauge to the radiator and motor and this is what I came up with.

Head 230
the radiator varies
on location 185-210
thermostat housing 195

I figured the temp would go up a little, but is this too much?

It's probably normal, but IMO too hot.
You need more radiator, or more airflow thru it.
Did you use an intercooler too, and how much flow thru the radiator is it blocking?

I'd look at radiator size, fan size, CFM, and shrouding.
I'd also do what I could to seal the radiator to the front of the car. The block off plates everyone is buying to fill the space between the rad support and upper valence do a great job on top, I'd also look at sealing the bottom of the shroud to the rear edge of the lower valance. If you can find some or make some, A/C cars had lil plates filling the space between the edges of the rad support and the fenders, this helps too.

If you have any room to work with, the more space you can keep between the intercooler and the radiator, the better off you will be.

I have the block off plate. I am running an intercooler that is block 3/4 the radiator. The intercooler is about 1 1/4 inches away from the radiator. I have a 2 core (1 inch cores) aluminum radiator. I'm running a flex-a-lite black magic 16 inch fan with a shroud pulling around 3400 cfm. No thermostat, just a large water restrictor. I can't seem to find a fan that will fit that will pull more. I don't think I can space the intercooler any farther away. I could try sealing up from the valence panel to the radiator support. The water temp in the head only gets up to around 210 when out on the highway. The big problem is in town driving. It take about 15 minutes to get to the 230 range. I thought about putting a couple of 10" pusher fans on the intercooler to help in the stop and go and slow speed of in town driving.

Looking at your readings again, I'm linda wondering about reading 195 at the thermostat housing and 230 at the head?
Are these both shot with the IR, or is the head temp off the gauge?

Same gauge setup you used before?

What do the radiator tanks read?

Do You Have A Bypass Hose? If So Block It Off, Also If You Have Heater Hoses, Block Them Off Also, My Freind And I Were Playing With A Temp Gauge This Week And Found If We Started Blocking Things Off To Force Water Back Into The Radiator It Cooled The Motor Down. Just A Thought For You.

Do You Have A Bypass Hose? If So Block It Off, Also If You Have Heater Hoses, Block Them Off Also, My Freind And I Were Playing With A Temp Gauge This Week And Found If We Started Blocking Things Off To Force Water Back Into The Radiator It Cooled The Motor Down. Just A Thought For You.
Ouch...
I dunno. I s'pose with a restrictor plate instead of a thermostat, you could remove the bypass on a big block. Personally, I'd run a thermostat, and the bypass hose.

The heater certainly isn't doing any harm, it is after all a miniture radiator, and if my temp gauge evcer went to 230, I'd have that heater cranked full blast in a heartbeat!

I could try a thermostat. The head temp shot with an IR are within 10 degrees of the gauge. I'm not running a bypass. My timing is set at 36 degrees and I'm running a boost timing master.

Since adding the procharger the motor temp has been hotter. I have my water temp gauge in the head. Prior to the procharger the head water temp was almost always aroung 190 degrees. Since adding the procharger the head temp will climb to 230-235 degrees. I just put a laser temp gauge to the radiator and motor and this is what I came up with.

Head 230
the radiator varies
on location 185-210
thermostat housing 195

I figured the temp would go up a little, but is this too much?

What all comes with the blower? Does it change the speed of the water pump relative to the motor?

I'm not sure if it changed the speed of the water pump. It came with a cog pulley about 5 1/2 inches diameter for the pump.

I would seriously consider a 4-core radiator. With only a 2 core radiator that is covered by 3/4 of intercooler - I would think you are not getting enough water cooled, fast enough.

I'm not sure if it changed the speed of the water pump. It came with a cog pulley about 5 1/2 inches diameter for the pump.

How big is the crank pulley?

crank pulley is 7". No room for a thicker radiator.

Look at the radiator that you have now. Many radistors have 4 core end tanks, and they just don't use two of the cores. The unused portion is often towards the engine fan. A radiator with more cores may not take up any more space, than what you have now.

He has a 2 core aluminum radiator, thats two 1" cores
should be plenty of radiator, as long as it is the width if a BB radiator

If your fan moves 3400 CFM, that should be enough to keep it cool
I would look at water flow
You could try temporarily running no restrictor (or thermostat), and see how the temp looks then
I would hope the water pump is spinning fast enough, if not get a smaller water pump pulley

I could try a thermostat. The head temp shot with an IR are within 10 degrees of the gauge. I'm not running a bypass. My timing is set at 36 degrees and I'm running a boost timing master.You can rough calibrate the gauge for temp by feeling the upper hose. When the thermostat gets hot & opens, the hose gets hot. View the gauge at the same time.

Putting a 4-row radiator may not gain anything as the last row, closet to the engine, may not offer any cooling effect due to the preheated air having ran across the previous three rows, especially with another heat source in front of the radiator. Just my thoughts, I could be wrong.

But I'm sure there is a fix as other vehicles run with a forced induction power adder. I had a '91 300ZX Twin Turbo and it had a 170*F thermostat from Nissan always. Intercoolers were outboard and to the side of cross flow alum radiator with two rows each being 3/4 inch wide and a smaller w/pump pulley. It ran, out of boost, on the thermostat, even with A/C on. Start boosting, and for a 1 mile stretch in full boost of 14 PSI, temp was in the middle, i.e., 210*F. Slow up out of boost, back to 170*F.

check the manifold by number 8 cylinder.prepared to where your temp sensor is.if no thermostat engine runs hotter and warps 8 the most. but you got a restricter in housing which it is correct. compare those cylinders if 8 hotter than others. put a smaller restricter in too slow down flow and pick up heat more.it takes a few times smaller-bigger got too experiment too get it right.with your heat gun make sure your gun says it nearly the same as the temp guage also. as you moved the temp sensor to side of block.

put a smaller restricter in too slow down flow and pick up heat more.

Wouldn't it seem that the flow is insufficient already, given the elevated temperatures? How does water pick up more heat without getting hotter?

I still think my biggest problem is the intercooler sitting in front of the radiator blocking some of the air flow. That's why I thought I might try 2 10" pusher fans on the intercooler. What do you think? I will try messing around with the retrictor plates and thermostat this weekend

This may be a dumb n00b type question, but could it be running too lean? Also, how is the fan wired?

The fan is wired to come on at 190 degrees coming from a temp sensor on the intake. I had the Carb Shop in Ontario, CA build the carb to the engine specs to work with the Procharger. It shouldn't be lean.

cog`d pulley...are you running an f1r???prolly needs alot of intercooler...what kind of intercooler???is it efficient enough???we run a d1sc thru an intercooler on a 383 with about the same cooling sys that you have...its aprox 750, maybe 780 on a good day, and no cooling issues in traffic...it only gets a little hot when trying to cool the od we used...water to fluid cooler...never above 190 tho...another question, how are your egt`s???if hot around town, maybe fatten up the idle circuit...food for thought...

Maybe a dumb question, but what are egt's?

EGT = exhaust gas temperature

Have you had her on a dyno?

I'm sure The Carb Shop does great work, but it's still "mail order" fuel mixing. I'm thinking a couple of dyno pulls might reveal an answer.

I don't know a lot about pro chargers but a few questions come to mind.
Are you getting detonation from the increased temperature?
What size inter cooler are you running?
Just curious about the actual combustion temperatures are.
Try to retard the timing a little and see what happens.
Where is your intake air routed?


Rich

egt probes or pyrometers are usually plumbed into the header tubes to keep an eye on exhaust gas temps on forced induction motors...5 and 6 are usually the hottest on a sbc, so thats where ours are...you dont want the egt`s to get to the 1400`s unless its for a second or 2 at the end of the track...on a street car, i`d like to see much lower, so as to keep the valve train from melting down...ours usually runs 1000-1100 cruising at 2300 rpm...its a little lean for a street car, but it makes good power...lol...samll tube headers will increase egt`s, which will also increase engine temps due to pent up heat in the combustion chamber...big tube headers and 3 inch exh will help expel the heat...also a pusher on the intercooler will help in cooling...just for s&g, pull the blower belt, and hat off the carb, and drive the car normally aspirated to see if she still gets hot...you can also go with a water to air intercooler to avoid the frontal blockage caused by the current intercooler, but they`re alot of bux, and more plumbing...

there shouldn't be any detonation. I have the timing at 34 degrees and I'm running a boost timing master which is set to retard a little over 1 degree for each pound of boost (running 8 pounds prior to the intercooler). Timing at 6500 rpm is 24 degrees.

No dyno pulls yet.

Here is some specs on the intercooler:

4" thick
24" long core
12" high
3" inlet/outlet
31" total length
rated for 900 hp

My air intake is routed through the fire wall where the wiper motor used to be.

I check the plugs this weekend and try to richen up the the fuel.

I currenty running ceramic coated Hooker Competition headers with 2 inch tubes and a 3 inch exhaust.

the less bends in the induction pipe, the less backpressure you`ll get...also, it made a big difference where we put our blow off valve as far as backpressure was concerned when dumping outta the throttle...i know this doesnt help your temp question...just some exteranious information...we found that locking out the dist at 30 deg was our best option, but may not be for yours(not a big fan of the magic in the boost timing master)...lmao...you can try a pusher and see if it helps...all it takes is money,right...if so, i`d put the pusher on a relay engaged with the ign switch, so its on when the key is on...

Plugs are flat black. I think it's running fairly rich right now.

I changed two things today. I changed the alternator from a 1 wire to a 3 wire and my volts went from 12.5 to 14.2. Then I took out the restrictor plate and through in a 190 thermostat. I took the car for a spin and the temp seemed to stay around 190.

it coulda been that the fan was running on battery power at idle and low rpm, due to the 1wire alt not being "excited" at low rpm...this would cause the fan to spin slower, reducing its effectiveness...i`d prolly try a 160 or maybe 180 highflow...you can run more timing on a cooler engine...but thats just me...anyways, hope ya got it licked...ps, you want the plugs to be a little dark on a blower motor...running lean is an expensive problem in forced induction, unless you go to efi...

Bad news, diode burned up and the insulation around the wire by the diode started to melt. The coil fuse burned up.