I have a weird problem, the radio and power window stop working from time to time. They may come on and go off many times while driving. They are more off than on now. I tried switching fuses, but that didn't help. What do the windows and stereo have in common? The radio always has the direct power that saves memory and operates the cd eject...

Anyone ever have this problem?

It's a 1997, 6 cylinder...

sounds like you may have your aftermarket radio connected to the power window circuit?


are we talking about a factory power window set-up?

if so, there is a 30 amp breaker located on the firewall next to the power brake booster. if your radio setup is drawing more amps than 25-30 then perhaps your overloading your breaker.

otherwise bad connections......at that breaker or the relay located inside the driverside kick panel....

hard to say over the net!!!

Came on here today to search for this problem. I'm having the exact same issue.

Radio shuts off whenever it likes. Especially when I hit a bump or take a turn a little fast. If I punch the accelerator hard, it will come back on or if I hit a bump again. When it does come back on, the time is correct and all the presets are correct. I know the radio has two power inputs, one for when the car is off to preserve settings and the time, the other power is the hot line which only powers up when the ignition switch is on. It would be easy to blame a connection to the radio itself except that . . .

. . . at the same time the radio goes out, the power windows go out and refuse to work as well. When the radio comes back on, the power windows work again.

The symptoms indicate a lack of power to the hot wire. I'm starting to suspect the ignition switch or some connector behind the fuse box. I'll be checking the wiring connectors behind the fuse box.

One other symptom which may be unrelated is that the signal flasher blows all too easily. Been through four of them in the past few months. Also, just yesterday, the cruise control stopped working but that may be unrelated as well.

Dangit!

Everything is stock, it's just an old car with lots of miles. '98 z28, 175,000 miles.

--Wag--

Wagonman are you sure the 4th gen has that 30 amp breaker on the firewall? I have the same problem and got the same advice but I couldnt find the breaker and someone told me it was only the older cars that have it.

Wagonman are you sure the 4th gen has that 30 amp breaker on the firewall? I have the same problem and got the same advice but I couldnt find the breaker and someone told me it was only the older cars that have it.

Hey guys,

I have not "fixed" the problem yet, but I know what it is. There is a control unit behind the glove box. I forget the official name, but it is the unit that provides auxilary power (on a timer) to the accesories like the windows and radio right after the car is turned off (and before you open the door). You must remove the glove box to get at it. It's a fairly large unit (~7x4x4 inches). I found the conections to be very difficult to remove, thus I have not replaced it yet. It's a fairly expensive part too. What I did find was that when it stops functioning, a quick tap on the unit usually brings it back to life. I left the glove box off, and tap the unit quite often. Pain in the rear work around until I get a "pro" to help with the removal.

hope that helps

good job Red

there is a R.A.P. ( retained accessory power) module, but it is under the steering column, and it is much smaller than the size you mentioned.

there is a R.A.P. ( retained accessory power) module, but it is under the steering column, and it is much smaller than the size you mentioned.

RAP sounds correct. The diagrams I had placed mine behind the glovebox, and that unit is what I tap to get power to come back on for the windows and radio. Maybe it is different based on year and/or options. Mine is 1997, factory power locks, windows, alarm, and remote...

Did you try a tap on yours when it isn't working? (Assuming that yours still comes on at all...)

I did find the part you are refering to behind the glovebox. Tapping on it hasn't helped. I don't have any power to the windows breaker in the dashboard fuse block, do you when your windows aren't working?

I did find the part you are refering to behind the glovebox. Tapping on it hasn't helped. I don't have any power to the windows breaker in the dashboard fuse block, do you when your windows aren't working?

Never checked that...yours still goes on and off when you hit bumps?

Where can I find this part at?

the part is discontinued, better try the junkyard. What is your situation?
\

same as reds. tapping on the module makes it work again. I have wires knocking on it when i turn on the air conditioner. i've fixed the knocking. it still goes out. so it just needs to be replaced.

I called the Chevy dealer and got some info on the module. It's called a BCM (Body Control Module). The retained accessory power module is part of the BCM. It cost a little less than $300 new. It works on 1998-2001 models. It has to be programmed specifically for your car.

I fixed mine (finally) without the 300 dollar part. I just ran a hot wire (fused with a switch) in place of the RAP (Z28's have a seperate RAP under the steering column other camaros have it in the IBCM) I used wiring diagrams off a website called shbox.com, its free and has a ton of info.