I got everything together this morning and went for a test drive. I drove about 100 yards and all of sudden a scraping noise started coming from under the car.

I jacked the rear end up and supported it with jack stands. Started the car. The noise was still there. I crawled under the back end. While turning the right rear tire with my foot I can tell that the noise is coming from the pinion area. I dropped the driveshaft at the pinion. Restarted the car (still on jack stands). The noise had gone away. This afternoon I replaced the rear u-joint.

Tonight the noise is not as bad with the new u-joint. But on jack stands the drive line isn't under any load. Some times when starting the car the noise isn't there for a few seconds, then starts as a tick (like a cooling exhaust).

The noise increases as the rpm is raised, and slows to a stop when the engine shut off.

The noise is currently not as bad as it was this morning, but still there.

Should I just drive it and see if breakin will make it go away?

I'm stumped :confused:

Is the dust shield on the yoke hitting the snout on the housing?

May be a pinion bearing. Pull the cover and look for debris.

I'll be pulling the cover in the morning cuz it's already leaking. I'll have look see then.

That sucks!

Must be a pinion bearing. Call Moser Monday morning.

A new Moser rear that makes noise and leaks to boot! :sad:Thats really stinks Dave. Call them as Freddie suggested , and please keep us posted.

On further inspection both rear calipers (Seville conversion) are now leaking and I have no rear brakes!. Now I'm wondering if theres an axle end play problem.

Further troubleshooting is needed. I ordered kits for the calipers. It will be about a week before I get it back together for more testing.

I'll keep you informed as I go.

Man that erks me!

I have had a problem with a new moser unit this week also, but i won't go there. Too upsetting.:sad:

What if I have the u-bolt nuts are too tight on the yoke? The pinion yoke is a machined aluminum. Could there be flexing between the u-joint caps and the yoke. The nuts can only be tightened with the box end of a combination wrench so I have no reference for a torque spec. The u-joint is new.

I spoke to Moser this morning. They said it's probably the u-joint. But after I told them the joint was new they really had nothing more to offer as far as a solution to the problem.

Tomorrow I will drop the drive shaft off to the make sure that it's straight and balanced. One step at a time...

Man that sucks! Even more so cause I just picked my Moser and am about to put it in.

Did you go with the Truetrac or Eaton?

Keep us posted for sure!

True Trac 3.42.

Well guys i posted that i had a problem with my new moser unit also. I had to drive near 8 hours round trip to have moser install a new ring and pinion in mine because it had some NASTY decelleration noise! I got it back in and now the pinion seal is leaking.:mad: WHAT A NIGHTMARE! To beat it all, i am getting this thump thump thump noise from what seems to be out torward the wheels on decel and when i turn the car left to right the noise goes away. The noise gets slower in speed as i go slower and it keeps up all the way until i stop. I put it up on jack stands and the noise is not there when the tires are not loaded. Can anyone make sense of this noise. I checked EVERYTHING that has to do with any type of brake noise. Everything is new and cannot see any rub marks. The unit is a 12 bolt and i had the rear made with bolt in axles with ford big bearings that are pressed on the axles. It also has the true trac posi with 4.11 gears and alluminum girdle cover. Fred sorry to hijack your thread but wanted you to know your not the only one with moser problems. If anyone can help with the noise i would greatly appreceiate it.

Well, this is where I tell you guys we sell a bunch of these rears with no problems, and then you say, well mine is messed up so screw off and die! LOL! So, with that said, no one is perfect, and once in a while when doing a volume of business, there are going to be issues here and there. And with as many of these hitting our cars, it is not surprising to see a couple problems here.

Both you guys appear to already be in direct contact with Moser. It sounds like they are trying to help. If you feel the need for additional help with Moser, free to call me, even if you did not buy the rear from us. I know a few people there.

Frank
four zero seven 832 1752

1 important thing is to follow the breakin procedure.
before taking on the road.
car on jack stands and run in fwd varying rpms for 2 to 5 mins
then same in reverse.
failing to do this step will cause all kinds of problems.
also keep in mind to run non synthetic in moser rears.

I'm running Amsoil 85w-140 in my moser rear , right now we are on are way back from a trip to california , sounds good so far . I'm running a tru track posi unit and just love it , way beter feel in the corners than the eaton unit .
mark.

Good point Dawg on NOT using synthetic with the Truetrac per their instructions.

What is everyone running for lube with the Truetrac??

80/90 regular gear oil until the rear is broken in then synthetic

Ok I read my instructions again and Moser says no synthetic.

The Truetrac manual says "is designed to operate in those lubricants recommended by the vehicle/axle manufacturer for conventional differentals"

Got on the phone with Moser today. They are making things right with me at whatever expense on their side. I can only imagine these are isolated incidents here. I have used their stuff for some time time now with no problems. It sucks about the trips back and forth from Michigan and pulling the rear out a bunch of times, but they are trying to take care of the problem. I would not be discouraged to buy from them by these two problems as i am sure these are not the morm. They said they would return my money, but i am letting them fix the problem so that has to say something. Fred, sorry again for hijacking your thread and good luck with getting yours straightened out.

I think I'm on to something regarding my noise. I dropped the driveshaft off to have it checked for straight and balance. I guy at the shop said the u-joint was NOT correct for a 1350 pinion yoke. He said joint I just picked up at a local NAPA auto parts was for a #3 yoke (what ever that is?) I should get the driveshaft back tomorrow ready to go with the correct joint.

I sure hope so!

The rear caliper rebuild is still to be done.

I installed the driveshaft last night. I had the checked for straight and balanced. The shop put the correct rear joint of it. Now my noise has gone away but a new one has come up.

With the car on jack stands with the motor running, the trans in drive I'm getting alot of odd whirling sounds from the left side/axle housing. I drive at idle right rear axle is spinning, the left is not turning. When I rev up the motor the axle spins and the sound goes away. When the rpm drops back to idle the sound comes back.

I DO. have oil in the diff.

Ideas?

I haven't driven the car yet. I'm having brake issues (see brake section)

Do you have the Truetrac differential? If you do then that is probably where the noise is coming from. If it is an Eaton then you need to get the clutches replaced.

It is a TRUE TRAC

tru tracs will whirrr a bit
trutrac dont work like a conventional limited slip so until both tires are planted on the ground 1 will not spin.
do a burnout and youll see 2 tire marks on a properly operating tru trac.