Will engine heat caust this filler to come off? Never thought of it before
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_237_full.jpg

Nope. On my 55 Chevy oil pan, we used a light skim coat on the oil pan (filled shallow dents) with no issues. That pan got a whole lot hotter than your hood ever will.

I'd be more worried about chipping with the filler run up to the edges like that.

I have seen a few pix lately showing people filling up around panel seams to get them as smooth and as close as possible. How many people are doing that? I was always told to do as little filling as possible and align as good as you can, then only use a little GLAZE to a straighten/feather a line. If it takes a lot filler, then you should work it with a body hammer before using anything more than GLAZE.

I am just curious, my teacher was a lil different in many ways :) and just wanted to see what the norm really is.

It's hard to judge how much filler is actually on there but it looks like your fine.

You should have shot an epoxy primer first then apply your filler over the epoxy, much better corrosion protection.

It is common practice to "adjust" body lines with a minimal amount of filler. Remember that most Classics came from the factory with gaps that most of us would find unacceptable today.

Obviously common sense rules here as just globing mud on as a remedy for poor metal work is not the issue.


Larry

You should have shot an epoxy primer first then apply your filler over the epoxy, much better corrosion protection.


I never put fillers over primer period. My personal opinion is that your filler can get compromised by poor primer adhesion, thus ruining your work. Rich

There is roughly 2 millimeters of filler. I am way too fussy about gaps. This is what it looked like before filler. Got the idea from Muscle car TV when they put together the 69 crate camaro.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_229_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_234_full.jpg

I never put fillers over primer period. My personal opinion is that your filler can get compromised by poor primer adhesion, thus ruining your work. Rich
Most paint mfg. recommend putting a epoxy first then filler.

Most paint mfg. recommend putting a epoxy first then filler.

It's been done both ways for years with great success.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-Allen
I never put fillers over primer period. My personal opinion is that your filler can get compromised by poor primer adhesion, thus ruining your work. Rich

Most paint mfg. recommend putting a epoxy first then filler.

Correct...Fillers, expoies technology have progressed a long way over the old school methods...
One should aim for 0.5 to max 1.5 mm of filler....and edges at lower limits.
Modern fillers now use far higher quality resens/compounds...so long as one doest use the elcheapo brands....2mm done right will be ok, if not on the very edge

Balljoint:
That is exactly what i thought when I looked at your picture at begining of thread (muscle car TV) , and also how even the gap looks around your hood.

Except they did a full skim coat on hood. I would be worried about chipping the filler with normal wear&tear and working in engine bay (after it's painted).

I'd be more worried about chipping with the filler run up to the edges like that.




Me too.



bob

There is roughly 2 millimeters of filler. I am way too fussy about gaps. This is what it looked like before filler. Got the idea from Muscle car TV when they put together the 69 crate camaro.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_229_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_234_full.jpg

You can never be to fussy when it comes to panal gaps. Getting your gaps spot is something that even a novice will notice. IMHO

How would these guys (MCC) get the hood so straight and flush?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_240_full.jpg

Will engine heat caust this filler to come off? Never thought of it before. If you really get worried about the heat, you can always install the underhood insulation.

Can you post a link to your cardomain web site so we can see more of your car?
Thanks Bob

Here it is
http://www.cardomain.com/id/balljoint

Looks good! do you have any pics of the rear while it is in bare metal / primer? I would like to save some to my computer for a reference point. My 67 RS has the tail panel a little smashed in, from just above the area where the license plate goes on down. Any "full rear" shorts plus any close ups would be cool.

Dreamwaver, these are the best ones I have. Hope it helps out.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_244_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_243_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_242_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_241_full.jpg

Thanks for the pics... that should do just fine, at least for now...

You think you'll still have them in 10 years when you get to the 67? :p
Thanks for the pics... that should do just fine, at least for now...

You think you'll still have them in 10 years when you get to the 67? :p

Newsflash - Starting the body work for the 67 .....................































Tomorrow :hurray:

Newsflash - Starting the body work for the 67 .....................

Tomorrow :hurray:

:( your starting without me ...
Oh - that's okay - I'm up at the lake for another week anyway ..
(I'm enjoying a pleasant 'Black Butte Porter' as I type [ loads of Chocolate malt with a sweet finish on the tongue ] :beers: )


How would these guys (MCC) get the hood so straight and flush?


Skill, patience, leaving everything loose until it lines up, patience, a large block of wood (2x4 and 4x4) applied carefully with a hammer as needed, patience, shims, patience and time ...
If I left off patience on that list I apologise for the oversite.
Anyone can get sheet metal to align using good bodywork procedures and carefull workmanship. The secret, if there is really one, is doing one adjustment at a time and checking the resultent fit against the ajoining panels and to the overall structure.
Remember also on a Camaro that the Subframe must be aligned correctly first before you start trying to get the front end to line up to the body.
If you haven't read through Brian Martin's (MartinSR on the boards) "Panel Alignment" in his 'How To' series then I would suggest you do so.
Here is the link to that article - http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?p=413681
Here is the link to the series - http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74560
Hope some of this helps.

(I'm enjoying a pleasant 'Black Butte Porter' as I type [ loads of Chocolate malt with a sweet finish on the tongue ] :beers: )




that's an excellent beer! especially on the Nitrogen tap!

that's an excellent beer! especially on the Nitrogen tap!

I'll have to make to bring some to the next show Steve :beers:

:( your starting without me ...
Oh - that's okay - I'm up at the lake for another week anyway ..
(I'm enjoying a pleasant 'Black Butte Porter' as I type [ loads of Chocolate malt with a sweet finish on the tongue ] :beers: ).....

John,

Believe me, I wouldn't have started without you if I didn't have to. I guess I didn't HAVE to, but I had to. I know you know I know what I think you might think I mean. Anyway, git yer butt off the mountain and come over to:

A. Drink some beer
B. Go for a ride to experience your handiwork
C. Inspect the progress on the 67 to make sure the guy is doing me right

Let me know when you want to "come out and play"... I'll get Farmboy over here and we'll whoop it up. :thumbsup:

... Anyway, git yer butt off the mountain and come over to: ...



I can't leave - I have 2 more single malts (a Glenfeddich 18 Special Reserve and a Balvenie Doublewood 12 ) and a few more six pacs of specialty beers to finish - this is serious stuff I need to apply myself to fully before I return :D
So you found some new dude to help out with your cars again - that should go well ;)
Glad to hear you're gonna start on Val's car before you do anything else to the 69 "Team" car. :thumbsup:
She will be happy to have that car to cruise to shows with you :yes:
I'll give you a call when I get back to see if I can help out at all. Or ... you could stop by up the mountain for a day or so and we could talk about it ;) The kids might have fun playing around with the boats and water toys :cool:

Your car buddy - John

.....So you found some new dude to help out with your cars again - that should go well ;)...

Your car buddy - John


When I read that I laughed so hard it actually hurt. I wonder how many people, that know me and what I went through, actualy got that.... but I did:hurray:

I use filler on the metal and after sanding. I fill in spots with a glaze or spot putty. I thinks it is interesting that filler would be compromised by bad primer adhesion. I think the whole project would be jepordized by bad primer adhesion. If the primer is no good then anything after that is no good. Am I wrong?

... it is interesting that filler would be compromised by bad primer adhesion. I think the whole project would be jepordized by bad primer adhesion. If the primer is no good then anything after that is no good.
Am I wrong?

Of course not, it is the usual response of most of us that have been applying fillers over epoxies for years now without a problem - and to the opposite, no problems at all compared to the 'older skool' methods I used to use.
Applying fillers over the older Lacquer, and other type, primers was not recommended for good reasons.
Applying fillers over modern epoxy primers has some great benefits. Having sealed the metal there is little chance moisture will penetrate through to the filler and cause problems. The adheasion of the fillers to the primer is excellent and is much better (IMHO of course as I've never done a 'pull test' yet ... ) than I used to observe when applying over bare metals.
All of this may be somewhat dependent on the brand/type of filler(s) you use. I am a big fan of the Evercoat ( http://www.evercoat.com/ ) line of products. I have talked to local reps as well as the manufactures technical staff about this procedure numerous times and never have they expressed any concerns. On the contrary, they recommended it to me many years ago ...
If you're doing a complete car by yourself in stages this procedure makes perfect sense. You can strip a whole body, put it in epoxy primer to protect the bare metal and then work at a slower pace on each area/panel without having to worry about rust formation. Anywhere rust forms on a panel after stripping is bound to give you problems sometime later in the life of the car if you don't get it completely removed/passivated. IMHO, this is the cause of most 'lifting' I've experienced of seen on cars, no matter how the primers/fillers were applied ...
The one exception to application over primer I use is the "Metal-2-Metal" products, I use this directly on metal, when doing initial filling and shaping after body mods, panel replacement and metalworked repair. This product is specifically formulated for application to metal.

This is one of those 'who's dog is faster' topics on the boards - I doubt there are any "correct" answers in most cases. If you done you prep and application work correctly you should have nearly equal results no matter how you chose to do you panel prep.

Looking forward to some of the 'real' body guys that do this day-in-day-out to chime in on this.

John