Hi All,

Been thinking of redoing my garage before winter and I had some questions on flooring. I have a concrete floor thats been painted with Behr garage paint (HD guy talked me out of epoxy) thats looks like a wreck.

Here are my options I think.
1) Re-paint with paint.
2) Expoxy it
3) some kind of Tile

I do a lot of work messy work in the garage with jacks, jackstands, welding. What are my best options?

Tile would be easiest if not the priceest but I am unsure if it can hold up to what I do there (like welding).

Anybody have any recommendations considering I have paint on the floor now (well, half of its still there at least).

Thanks in advance!

Some of the guys have posted in the past about garage floors in the bench racing section. This topic seemed to have a good bit of input over there. I hav'nt done it myself, but i'm sure they will chime in.

grind it with a wire wheel then install POR-15 Floor Armor

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9388

follow this thread, it is quite long though

As far as having a nice floor to work on, that would be nice, but heres another way to look at it.

When your working on your car or whatever, some of this type of work is not what you would call the safest thing to do.

Also you need to watch out so you don't ding or scratch your car.

Now you add the part about having a nice floor and trying to protect it, this is a distraction, trying to protect the floor while your doing something.

When your in there working with power tools, you need to stay focused.

Then you have to protect from the sparks from a torch or grinding.

But I have to admit, I would like to have a really nice floor, is there a happy medium?

Rob

...http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9388
Hours and hours worth of reading on this subject at the link above...

Ive had great luck with rustoleum 2 part proffesional epoxy over that losey behr garage floor paint.
I too have a working garage that gets pretty messy.
but after epoxying the floor sweeping up is a breeze!
heres my garage:
http://webpages.charter.net/harrycoon/100_0241%20(Medium).JPG
test patch over behr floor paint
(cleaned floor with concrete cleaner first)
http://webpages.charter.net/harrycoon/100_0248%20(Medium).JPG
test patch was there for 2 months and I had no hot tire pick up or lifting.
painting the whole garage with the rustoleum this weekend.

Hi All,

Been thinking of redoing my garage before winter and I had some questions on flooring. I have a concrete floor thats been painted with Behr garage paint (HD guy talked me out of epoxy) thats looks like a wreck.

Here are my options I think.
1) Re-paint with paint.
2) Expoxy it
3) some kind of Tile

I do a lot of work messy work in the garage with jacks, jackstands, welding. What are my best options?

Tile would be easiest if not the priceest but I am unsure if it can hold up to what I do there (like welding).

Anybody have any recommendations considering I have paint on the floor now (well, half of its still there at least).

Thanks in advance!

I am considering a concrete coating of some sort. Have been leaning towards the "epoxy" coating.
I think the #1 thing that works against the tile job is using a jack and/or jack stands. I doubt they could hold the weight without cracking.

dawg, What model of bend pak lift is that, any dissappointments with it . I need to buy myself a birthday present & I want a 10'000 lb lift any one else chime in also.

I am a epoxy floor contractor. I use rustoleum constantly in warehouses and beverage plants, milk plants and so on...we give a three year written warranty on all our work. I love it, I have been doing it for nine years, used many different epoxies, but love rustoleum the best. If you need any help, let me know.:yes:

A third vote for Rustoleum. I first used it in the garage attached to my house. Much better than the garage floor coatings that I had tried in the past. When I built my shop I used it there also. Clean-up is a breeze and nothing so far has affected the finish.

dawg, What model of bend pak lift is that, any dissappointments with it . I need to buy myself a birthday present & I want a 10'000 lb lift any one else chime in also.
XL-9 no problems whatsoever.
I got it here:
free shipping and all lifts are on sale now!
http://www.asedeals.com/index.html

I've used Sherwin Williams epoxy on my last 3 garages and it looks good and is very durable. The last time I bought it was at another Sherwin Williams store (since I had moved) and I asked to see their epoxy floor paints and the guy acted like he would only sell to commercial painters. I assured him that I had used it before so he sold it to me. I would recommend their epoxy and I really like the selection of colors. I painted one garage a light grey and the second one a little lighter grey and then the house I'm in now has a very light tan floor. I would suggest to select a very light color because it really brightens the room considerably. If I remember correctly, 2 gallons each of the "A" and "B" was about $400 (about 4 years ago) and I did a 2 1/2 garage and the small row of concrete blocks (about 3 high) around the base of my gargae and had plenty left over. If you have any areas where your wife may walk when she gets out of the car then you may want to add a little sand in paint in that area to make it less slippery. The floor is very slick if it gets wet (like when pulling a car in out of the rain).

the rustoleum isnt slippery.
at least the semi gloss paint isnt

Where is the Rustoleum purchased?

I am a epoxy floor contractor. I use rustoleum constantly in warehouses and beverage plants, milk plants and so on...we give a three year written warranty on all our work. I love it, I have been doing it for nine years, used many different epoxies, but love rustoleum the best. If you need any help, let me know.:yes:

What is the procedure after it fails or comes up? How do you remove and replace the coating.
Are there different grades of rustoleum epoxy? What is the best longest lasting? What is the secret installation method to get the best bond?

Does a gas spill lift or bubble the Rustoleum product? I use a Behr product on my just built detached garage and gas (and brake fluid) lifted the paint.

I used the gray Rustoleum in my last garage. I bought the kit at Lowes. As with any paint job prep is important. I pressure washed it twice using Castrol super clean and scrubbing it with a broom,then rinsing. I poured laquer thinner on any oil spots,scrubbed and dried with a rag.Then i used muriatic acid and water(50/50) in a watering can and sprinkled the floor,let it sit fifteen minutes.Scrubbed it with a push broom,rinsed it with power washer again. Let it dry about a week and rolled on the paint.Most of this is on Rustoleums website or in the directions that come with the paint.The paint came with a citrus acid cleaner but i used the muriatic acid instead.It held up great for a year and a half until i moved out.Curious as to how it is now. I'm going to do my current garage floor soon.

I used the gray Rustoleum in my last garage. I bought the kit at Lowes. As with any paint job prep is important. I pressure washed it twice using Castrol super clean and scrubbing it with a broom,then rinsing. I poured laquer thinner on any oil spots,scrubbed and dried with a rag.Then i used muriatic acid and water(50/50) in a watering can and sprinkled the floor,let it sit fifteen minutes.Scrubbed it with a push broom,rinsed it with power washer again. Let it dry about a week and rolled on the paint.Most of this is on Rustoleums website or in the directions that come with the paint.The paint came with a citrus acid cleaner but i used the muriatic acid instead.It held up great for a year and a half until i moved out.Curious as to how it is now. I'm going to do my current garage floor soon.

This is a pretty good method. I GRIND the concrete, or if it is good newer concrete I sometimes sand with a buffer machine with a heavy grit sanding disk then blow it dry with air or blower then coat. I like using a penetrating primer if the floor is in not great shape, the prime and seal makes for a perfect bond. PREP IS EVERYTHING... remember that...good luck

I used ucoaitit. So far I am very happy.

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/1390/img3772ny5.th.jpg (http://img168.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3772ny5.jpg)
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1299/img3768yj4.th.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3768yj4.jpg)

It brightened up the work area so I can see better, things stay cleaner - no dusting. It has proven tough. Sorry Rob, it is so tough I do not worry about it at all. LOL.

So, when its wet do you use track shoes to keep from sliding around:)

I dont know if you found a good floor coating but here in omaha we have a specialty store that does anything garage related and I heard them say they did quartz flooring.
I forgot to wright dowm there name and number I will get it and post it next time I see it unless someone else from here gets it first I know there are others on here from omaha.
I dont know anything about it but it's just something else for you to look into.
Good luck Bob

Most epoxy companies can supply a non-skid additive that mixes with the epoxy. I do not use water based products like ucoatit, commercial epoxies like those from rustoleum have better wear ability due to the resin strength these are xylene based. How I do mine is ....grind or sand floor...fill any cracks with a filler or make any repairs...vac or blow it dry/clean...put down primer..wait 6 hours...put down base coat..(add flakes, quartz, oxide, if desired)... let dry for another 6 hours...put a smooth or orange peel clear top coat to seal it.. the spill whatever you like...it will last years like brand new..then years later...scuff the floor and repeat. The secret is getting a good bond :thumbsup:

I used Valspar epoxy coating and am very happy with it. It it used commericially in plane hangers and NASCAR garages.

Helloooooooooooooooo....................
Will your application(s) withstand a gas spill? Not spill and wipe.........a gas spill and stand.

Thanks

So, when its wet do you use track shoes to keep from sliding around:)No. I added the grit that came with the package. You really hate clean floors, don’t you? LOL

Helloooooooooooooooo....................
Will your application(s) withstand a gas spill? Not spill and wipe.........a gas spill and stand.Are long-standing gasoline puddles in your garage a common occurrence? I can’t speak for anyone else, but I haven’t let a puddle of gasoline sit on my floor for a prolonged period of time, but I have spilled gas on it with no ill effects. But everything wipes up nicely. Prolonged (a few days) brake fluid has not hurt it yet. Oil on it for weeks comes right up.

Most epoxy companies can supply a non-skid additive that mixes with the epoxy. I do not use water based products like ucoatit, commercial epoxies like those from rustoleum have better wear ability due to the resin strength these are xylene based.The gloss coat for ucoatit is oil based. Stinks to high heaven. LOL

I agree prep & following directions is key.

Thanks for all the input! Looks like epoxy is winning out. Like I said, my floor is half paint and grease stains, Is there a tool I can rent to prep the concrete?

Also, My sills are concrete to about a foot, since they get no abuse they are are still great good shape, can I just expoxy over the paint just to match the floor?

deleted it, didn't sound right.

Rob

Two key issues for ANY garage floor coating:

1. Moisture migration - if you don't have a moisture barrier under the slab, almost any coating (including epoxy) is likely to fail.

2. Surface prep - a muriatic acid wash is barely adequate; the best prep is grinding or steel shot-blasting, to open up the pores in the "skin" so the epoxy has something with "teeth" to bond to.

Mine was done seven years ago, five months after it was poured. I have a 10-mil poly moisture barrier over crushed stone, then 4'x8' sheets of 3/4"-thick high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides (for insulation and as a secondary impermeable moisture barrier), then rod & mesh and the slab poured on that. Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) did mine, steel shot-blasted the slab, followed by two coats of SOLVENT-BASED industrial epoxy (applied 24 hours apart), with fine silica sand sprinkled in the second coat for anti-slip.

Seven years later, it still looks like it was poured yesterday - it's super-easy to keep clean, winter snow/salt/crud from the daily drivers doesn't bother it, no automotive chemical bothers it (including brake fluid), hot tires won't mark it or lift it, dropped tools and parts won't chip it. Turnkey job seven years ago was $1.92/sq. ft. for 2500 sq. ft. Best money I ever spent in the garage. :thumbsup:

JohnZ, no doubt about it, you put that floor in right:thumbsup:, and have to agree for seven years old it still looks new.

Just a couple of questions.

Do you just wet mop it to keep it clean.

Is it slippery at all with the grit in it when its wet.

Thanks Rob

Mine was done seven years ago, five months after it was poured. I have a 10-mil poly moisture barrier over crushed stone, then 4'x8' sheets of 3/4"-thick high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides (for insulation and as a secondary impermeable moisture barrier), then rod & mesh and the slab poured on that.

Turnkey job seven years ago was $1.92/sq. ft. for 2500 sq. ft. Best money I ever spent in the garage. :thumbsup:
OH to have the zoning for 2500 SQ FT. Is the floor heated? (radiant heat)

Jeff

heres mine... just make sure you use the oil based rustoleum if you do it. home depot only sells the water based, and its crap. this came from lowes in a 5 gallon bucket with 2.5 gallons of product. i used two kits and then cleared it. cost about $250 + tape, acid, rollers etc...

http://members.aol.com/chevelle496ci/images/garage-3.jpg

Very nice Tim.:thumbsup:

Rob

What was the process of incorporating the emblem and striping? Paint stripes then floor?

JohnZ, no doubt about it, you put that floor in right:thumbsup:, and have to agree for seven years old it still looks new.

Just a couple of questions.

Do you just wet mop it to keep it clean.

Is it slippery at all with the grit in it when its wet.

Thanks Rob

I just sweep it with a soft-bristle push broom, and wet-mop it for serious dirt or a spill; in the spring, I just hose the winter salt/crud out the door. No slip issues on a wet floor with the fine silica sand sprinkled in it.

:beers:

OH to have the zoning for 2500 SQ FT. Is the floor heated? (radiant heat)

Jeff

Nope. I super-insulated it when we built the house (it's an attached garage, which includes my 16' x 16' "retirement office") - 2x6 framing for R-26 in the walls, R-58 in the ceiling, insulation under the slab, and the two 18' x 8' sectional doors are 1-1/4" thick steel/foam/steel sandwich with tubular seals between the sections and closely-fitted double vinyl perimeter seals. I have a ceiling-mounted Reznor power-vented forced-air gas unit heater with electronic ignition (no pilot flame) that only needs to run a few hours a day, even when it's zero outside. Also have a 42,000-BTU mini-split A/C system that keeps it at 75* with no problem when it's in the 90's outside in the summer. Insulation makes ALL the difference.

Details on the A/C unit are at:

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1411059

Thanks John.

Rob

Nope. I super-insulated it when we built the house (it's an attached garage, which includes my 16' x 16' "retirement office") - 2x6 framing for R-26 in the walls, R-58 in the ceiling, insulation under the slab, and the two 18' x 8' sectional doors are 1-1/4" thick steel/foam/steel sandwich with tubular seals between the sections and closely-fitted double vinyl perimeter seals. I have a ceiling-mounted Reznor power-vented forced-air gas unit heater with electronic ignition (no pilot flame) that only needs to run a few hours a day, even when it's zero outside. Also have a 42,000-BTU mini-split A/C system that keeps it at 75* with no problem when it's in the 90's outside in the summer. Insulation makes ALL the difference.

Details on the A/C unit are at:

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1411059

Nice looking garage :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info on the insulation and heat etc. I think the wife is convinced "we" need a new 1000 SQ FT garage, now to convince zoning....

Jeff

After buying my Camaro I stumbled accross this site when I got stumped with an electrtical problem, and got hooked. I recently began building my first garage...guess what there are a few web sites like this one but dedicated to garages.

Here is a link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20

This is the section for flooring. If you want to spend a few hours reading the ins and outs of epoxy coating and different brands. Most of the members use their garges for auto repair...

Tim and JohnZ floors are sweet. I know someone that did the epoxy thing and followed the directions to the tee, and it came out good.