View Full Version : 1968 4 spd


chops
Sep 5th, 07, 09:07 AM
I followed up on a "real 1968 SS musclecar" that I ran across.
It was advertised as a 327 SS 4 speed rarely driven. Now, with my limited research I noticed in the pictures that it did not have the SS hood, or hockey stripe. No big deal about the stripe, b/c I knew it had been painted. I've also read that many L30/ 327-275hp were not always badged, and 1968 is a vague year as far as the cowl tag goes.

So this guy states that he's had it for 12 years. Really hoping it was a true L30, it is not. It is a plain jane with 4 speed, and the 327-210 setup LF7 (MA stamped).
10 bolt rear, single leaf. It has SS badges.


On the positive side, the body is straight, the interior is overall good and complete,the floor pans look OK from underneath (but I have no way of knowing what's under the carpet). The trunk pan seems OK. The numbers match.

The negatives: The 327 is tired, the clearcoat is destroyed by UV, and he's asking $13k. It is tagged and driveable, but needs help.

So, what is this plain jane worth? It seems like it would be a good project. What would be top reasonable offer?

And, is it "cost effective" to rebuild the 327 up, and keep it numbers matching, or replace with a 350 crate?

Do the floors usually rot from outside first, or can they/do they rot from the inside out?

Thanks

Eric Kammerer
Sep 5th, 07, 09:32 AM
First, you know it is not an SS in any way, shape, or form, right?

"I've also read that many L30/ 327-275hp were not always badged,"

There wasn't any special badging, just the 327 on the fender.

Do the floors usually rot from outside first, or can they/do they rot from the inside out?

Can be both. If they rust from inside, it's normally water getting in (around kickpanel, through a bad weatherstrip, etc.) and laying in a seam or low area for an extended period. if they rust from underneath, it's often at a seam where several panels come together, like ajacent to the rockers, where the toe board and floor meet, or where the underboady bracing is (verts). Floor plans can look good from underneath while laying on your side looking at an angle through a small space, and be in need of replacement. If you can, unscrew the sill plates and at least lift the carpet to peek underneath, and you should check the underside on a lift if at all possible.

Is it an original 4-speed car, or was it converted? Probably the only way to tell would be to look in the underside of the trans tunnel for the factory reinforcing ring around the shifter opening. Which 4-speed is it?

Without pics, it's hard to say what the value is. $13K would be pretty fair for a plain jane that didn't need a bunch of work, but as descirbed it sounds like it needs about $10K in work at least. Is a perfectly restored, numbers match, 68 plain jane low option car worth $23K? Probably not.

As far as "cost effective" to build the 327, it depends on your goals.

sleepsinshed
Sep 5th, 07, 02:56 PM
I'm a big fan of keeping any car numbers matching. Of course that means more on a rare collectible car more than a plain jane. I've had a couple of 327's and there is nothing wrong with them. My current car has a mostly stock MA motor with a Rochester 4bbl and it's smooth, reliable and packs enough of a punch for my purposes.

Floors most often rust from the inside out, so it's important to look under the carpeting. Usually by the time rot is noticed on the underside of the floor it's too late.

My biggest concern would be with the condition of the rockers and rear shock mounts.

Mike69X66
Sep 5th, 07, 09:11 PM
I'd say it's overpriced by atleast 2k. IMO