: 5,000$ In Perf. Parts..
SunnyZ28 Sep 13th, 07, 01:02 PM if you had about 5000$ for performance parts, what would you do? The car in mind is a '67 4 speed 350V8 Camaro SS. Or even just anything in general, we havn't actually picked up this car yet.. My dad was looking for a 396, but all the cars around here are rusted out with paint jobs over 'em. Anyways.. I know '67s suffer from wheel hop, so maybe something to do with that? I'd also like to make the car as fast as possible pretty much... without nitrous [if you get caught here with nitrous in your car, its MAJOR trouble]
eville Sep 13th, 07, 01:19 PM safety first, brakes, suspension, 5 speed OD transmission.
68RS-SS Sep 13th, 07, 01:24 PM Here's one thought - depending on how much of that stuff is in good shape (meaning eng. and tranny) you could purchase a Late 90s camaro with 350hp, fuel injection and 6spd. tranny for about $5k - $6k and then put it all into your ride. You could pobably use other stuff off of it too and then sell the carcass for $1,000 - $2000. Just one option to consider. My friend just bought a 78 transam w/o an engine & tranny. He was looking at spending $4500 for a fairly basic crate eng. I found him a 1999 TA with the above in good shape for $5,500. He's going to take whatever will fit into the older TA and then part out the remnants. Of course going this route will be challenging but for the price its hard to beat all you can get.
Silver69Camaro Sep 13th, 07, 01:27 PM LS1 w/ a T56. Hands down the best thing you can do for all-around fun. IMO, anyway.
SunnyZ28 Sep 13th, 07, 01:28 PM safety first, brakes, suspension, 5 speed OD transmission.
Here's one thought - depending on how much of that stuff is in good shape (meaning eng. and tranny) you could purchase a Late 90s camaro with 350hp, fuel injection and 6spd. tranny for about $5k - $6k and then put it all into your ride. You could pobably use other stuff off of it too and then sell the carcass for $1,000 - $2000. Just one option to consider. My friend just bought a 78 transam w/o an engine & tranny. He was looking at spending $4500 for a fairly basic crate eng. I found him a 1999 TA with the above in good shape for $5,500. He's going to take whatever will fit into the older TA and then part out the remnants. Of course going this route will be challenging but for the price its hard to beat all you can get.
Do you think it's easier to buy an LS1 + T-56 and swap it.. than it is to put money into a 350? Because if that's true.. I might as well just go for a 327/Auto car. It'll be like 10,000$ cheaper [from what I've seen in price] and swap a T-56+LS1 in. Any thoughts on that?
DROPTOPtimes2 Sep 13th, 07, 01:54 PM 1.) front disc brake kit: $600
2.) decent aftermarket heads with about 64cc chambers: $1000
3.) 12 bolt posi rear end or use a 8.5" 10 bolt. big range here but let's say $1000.
4.) cam/lifters: $150
5.) rpm intake with 600/650 carb: $500
6.) 1-5/8" headers: $200
7.) 2-1/2" exhaust: $300
8.) new clutch/pressure plate $200
This is assuming that the motor isn't too tired. If the motor is tired, add $1200 for a gm short block.
68SSlemans Sep 13th, 07, 02:03 PM i was seriously considerin an LS1 swap in my camaro, but is an original SS so i decided not to. Instead im buildin a SCREAMIN small block, but the budget is much larger than an LS1. I just like the idea of keeping first gen small blocks in first gen camaros. I think all the mounting brackets are available after market to do the swap... But an overdrive is a must with an LS1, it is even nice with my car. If i was you, I would definately go for the LS1. They pull real hard, all my buddies got 4th gens. When they are cammed they are wicked
zdld17 Sep 13th, 07, 02:05 PM Don't sound like you are in love with the ratty body? maybe you could get the car dependable, good motor , rear , bless the wheel hop and use it as a rat rod, for now. You could come across a decent body someday and transfer all parts? You can blow 5K quick on a bad body.
Eric68 Sep 13th, 07, 02:14 PM There is no way you could do an LS1 swap complete with tranny for $5k unless you get a bunch of used stuff, even then it will be a stretch. You would need the computer, wiring, and all kinds of other adapter parts like headers, oil pan, and engine mounts.
I would suggest stroking the motor to a 383 and installing good heads. Rebuild the 4 speed and redo the rear end (gears). That will be a stretch money wise, but doable. The 4 speed should hold up fine as long as you don't get too nutty with high RPM launches on slicks.
SunnyZ28 Sep 13th, 07, 02:21 PM The car's actually in really amazing shape... although you guys have got me thinking.. I'm almost wondering if it's worth buying a shell and doing it how I wanted to... Any thoughts on that one? lol... Which would end up being cheaper in the long run? Cars up here in Canada are really expensive compared to the USA :(
Old Man Sep 13th, 07, 02:26 PM There is no way you could do an LS1 swap complete with tranny for $5k unless you get a bunch of used stuff, even then it will be a stretch. You would need the computer, wiring, and all kinds of other adapter parts like headers, oil pan, and engine mounts.
I would suggest stroking the motor to a 383 and installing good heads. Rebuild the 4 speed and redo the rear end (gears). That will be a stretch money wise, but doable. The 4 speed should hold up fine as long as you don't get too nutty with high RPM launches on slicks.
Sorry but I disagree with you. You can find LS1's with wiring harness and trannys for less than 5K. You can buy a 98 F body for just about that and you'd have everything you need except the X member.
camaro_fever68 Sep 13th, 07, 03:08 PM Sorry but I disagree with you. You can find LS1's with wiring harness and trannys for less than 5K. You can buy a 98 F body for just about that and you'd have everything you need except the X member.
Seen a 98 F-body come through the auction this morning with rear damage but driven through the lanes. 65,000 miles, working A/C, manual trans, Sold for $3800. Thought hard, but I'm in too deep on a twin turbo build.
SunnyZ28 Sep 13th, 07, 03:15 PM Hmm.. ok so.. I talked to my insurance company.. basically.. I was told.. The car has to remain stock looking [engine included :(].. reason being is I need to get an appraisal for the insurance company.. and they dont want me swapping engines on it, or else they wont insure me..SO.. basically...
It looks like I'm going to be stuck with a 350/4 speed.. I can change the rear end gears.. maybe even get a T-56 and swap that.. but I think they'd notice an LS1 in place.. lol So what can I do to a '68/69 350 to crank a ton of power out of it?
Old Man Sep 13th, 07, 04:15 PM Hmm.. ok so.. I talked to my insurance company.. basically.. I was told.. The car has to remain stock looking [engine included :(].. reason being is I need to get an appraisal for the insurance company.. and they dont want me swapping engines on it, or else they wont insure me..SO.. basically...
It looks like I'm going to be stuck with a 350/4 speed.. I can change the rear end gears.. maybe even get a T-56 and swap that.. but I think they'd notice an LS1 in place.. lol So what can I do to a '68/69 350 to crank a ton of power out of it?
No No No, that's just for the appraisal. After the appraisal is complete do what ever you want, your going to be insuring the car for what ever the appraisal shows. Most insurance adjusters couldn't tell you the difference bewteen a 350 and an LS1 if they were side by side. Go to this web site http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/ to the classified forum, LS1's, LS2's, LS6's and X's for sale all day long. I have a 99 Z28 and a 99 Trans Am and I can tell you that if it were my choice it would definitely be an LSX based motor with a Tremec 5 speed.
hybryd67 Sep 13th, 07, 07:04 PM What are your future spending plans for the car? If the $5k is all you plan to spend, total, you will need to spread the money around the whole car. If you plan to spend more $$ down the road, say in a year or two, you can concentrate the money in one area and really do it right.
For example, I have been modifying my car in phases for the past 2 1/2 years. The first wad I blew was on the rear end and transmission. That netted me almost zero performance gains with the stock motor I had. But, I had plans of putting a much more powerful motor in later. When I did put the big motor in this summer, the rest of the drive train was ready for the abuse. If you put your $5k in the motor first, either you will break other 40 year old parts, or you won't be able to get it to hook.
I guess what I am trying to say, in a very long-winded way, is that you need to look beyond the $5k you have to spend now. What are your long-term plans for the car? Once you know that, then you will be able to better determine where to spend the $5k now.
XLexusTech Sep 13th, 07, 07:56 PM I have been thinking about the exact same senerio
big break kit 1500.00
Big wheels 1500.00
control Arms 1200
close ratio steering box 250
For me Exaust (I got some ugle side pipes on my car but thats th way I got it) 500
set of good FE pieces (tie rods ect)
thats all she wrote
SunnyZ28 Sep 14th, 07, 11:43 AM I will DEFINETLY be spending more on the car down the road, for now it just seems that the approx amount of money I will have after buying the car is about 5,000$ I am thinking more and more about the idea of swapping a LS1/T-56 into the car.. How hard would that be? / anyone know the approx cost?
eville Sep 14th, 07, 11:59 AM Research insurance. You don't want to insure this car through the normal companies.
You want an agreed value policy from hagerty or one of the others.
Eric68 Sep 14th, 07, 12:06 PM Sorry but I disagree with you. You can find LS1's with wiring harness and trannys for less than 5K. You can buy a 98 F body for just about that and you'd have everything you need except the X member.
Sorry, but you missed my point. The engine trans etc. you can get used, I know that. (note I said, "unless you get a bunch of used stuff") Then you have to get the parts needed to swap it into a 1st gen. There are a few special parts needed to make that happen including headers, adapter engine mounts, all the accessories and brackets, etc. Getting the engine and trans is one expense, getting the parts to make it fit is another expense (and a fairly significant one). Getting a whole car doesn't help with the adapter parts needed to make it fit in a 1st gen.
68RS-SS Sep 14th, 07, 12:38 PM Sorry, but you missed my point. The engine trans etc. you can get used, I know that. (note I said, "unless you get a bunch of used stuff") Then you have to get the parts needed to swap it into a 1st gen. There are a few special parts needed to make that happen including headers, adapter engine mounts, all the accessories and brackets, etc. Getting the engine and trans is one expense, getting the parts to make it fit is another expense (and a fairly significant one). Getting a whole car doesn't help with the adapter parts needed to make it fit in a 1st gen.
Like I said earlier, buy the whole car for $5,000 - $6000, take what you need, sell what's left over, buy the other necessary parts. It can be done. True - you will have used parts but it's not a bad plan for $5 - $6k. However, if you already have a good solid eng. & tranny then maybe your better off spending the $ on making your car safe, reliable and improving what you have. However, for someone who doesn't have an eng. or tranny don't you all think that this would be an awesome way to spend $5?
SunnyZ28 Sep 14th, 07, 12:41 PM Research insurance. You don't want to insure this car through the normal companies.
You want an agreed value policy from hagerty or one of the others.
Unfortunately.. I cant do that. I havnt had my full license for 10 years, which is pretty much required by all the classic car insurance companies.. My normal insurance company did agree to insure me on it for a pretty good rate though [My parents have been with them for 30 years with no claims so he bends the rules a lot for me lol]
pdq67 Sep 14th, 07, 12:58 PM '67, 350SS, Muncie 4-speed car should have a 12-bolt under her so it will take alotta power!
That said, if you have that car? 1st, make it mechanically safe, suspension/braking-wise!
Then, w/ whatever is left over outta the $5,000, buy a 454 P/U/'Burb core engine w/ a bad crank and for right at $4,000 if you assemble it yourself, you can create a 496 that will make about 550 hp EASY!!!
I've got one in my car now.
And I'm not all that hopped up on look's as long as it is a 50 foot'er.. It's OK if it's mine for now!
But onna these days my car will look like I wanna say Brians black one and JimM's great looking Blue 'Vert!!!
But when she's running low 11's whuch mine should do, so what..
pdq67
PS., and fwiw, a cheap set of Lakewood slapper bars will handle a mono-spring cars wheel hop up to past 10 seconds FINE, imho!! I've got homemade slappers on mine now!!
Eric68 Sep 15th, 07, 12:43 PM PDQ -- Is that car of yours on the road yet?
pdq67 Sep 15th, 07, 04:21 PM Eric,
You won't leave me alone!
He, He!!
pdq67
satz28 Sep 15th, 07, 07:36 PM Research insurance. You don't want to insure this car through the normal companies.
You want an agreed value policy from hagerty or one of the others.
I don't believe that is totally correct. I have an agreed value policy form State Farm on my 69Z. The annual $ amount for me was slightly less than Hagerty was.
Eric68 Sep 16th, 07, 10:36 AM Eric,
You won't leave me alone!
He, He!!
pdq67
Uh . . . its only been SEVEN YEARS !!!! LOL
eville Sep 16th, 07, 11:13 AM I don't believe that is totally correct. I have an agreed value policy form State Farm on my 69Z. The annual $ amount for me was slightly less than Hagerty was.
Not trying to say you're wrong, but please read your entire policy and be sure. I've heard that story from people about statefarm. What your agent says and what your policy say MIGHT be two different things, and you I'd hate to see anyone get burned.
67_camaro Sep 16th, 07, 11:53 AM I don't believe that is totally correct. I have an agreed value policy form State Farm on my 69Z. The annual $ amount for me was slightly less than Hagerty was.
I BET you have 'STATED VALUE' not agreed value, check the contract very closely. There is a big difference and most people dont catch it until it's too late....
Lee
speedshifter Sep 18th, 07, 01:21 AM So what can I do to a '68/69 350 to crank a ton of power out of it?
My 350 cranks enough to blow off both of my 275 BFG's for 100 feet. The key is a big solid lifter cam and 210 cc heads with around 10.5:1 compression ratio. I ran it on 91 octane with some booster, 1.75" open headers, and a 750 DP on a Victor single plane intake. When modifying an NA 350 for big power, think RPM.
bowtiepower00 Sep 19th, 07, 11:22 AM There are a lot of variables here. How often are you going to drive the car? Are you used to driving high-performance vehicles? Are you capable of doing the work yourself? How comfortable does the car have to be? How fast do you want to go?
For a quick streetable cruiser, I'd say:
Mildly built 350 or 383, with Vortecs or Brodix IK's (or even a mild BBC if the budget allows)
TH350 with right budget converter or Muncie with good clutch
3.23 or 3.42 rear with posi using whatever rear you have
Decently tuned slappers or Cal-tracs
That would be a very streetable 12-13 second car if built and tuned right. It would turn heads and be a blast to drive. If built right, it won't be breaking all of the time, either.
Before you do anything, make sure your brakes and suspension are in good shape.
If you want to go faster than that it's going to take a lot more money and tuning, and the streetability is going to go downhill fast, as is MPG. Unless you spend even more money.
The LS1 swap is going to make the car the most drivable and economical fuel wise.
Sticking with whatever drivetrain is in the car will likely be the easiest and cheapest way to go.
If you're just cruising, you don't really need OD, FI, etc. But it is nice to have.
Look for used parts, here and elsewhere. If you're buying new parts at retail prices that $5K is going to disappear fast.
IMO, I would rebuild whatevers in the car when you get it to the power level you want and enjoy driving the thing. Above all, keep it pump gas friendly and streetable so you can enjoy the thing. The faster you go, the more often you're going to break stuff. Expensive stuff.
Assuming you're going to keep the car for awhile and will continue to sink money into it down the road, I'd say: Chassis first. Then drivetrain. Then engine.
Meanchicken Sep 20th, 07, 09:27 AM Open your October issue of Super Chevy and turn to the story on Page 68.
...Premade shopping lists with pix are cool!
Tim
BartonekDragRacing Sep 20th, 07, 12:28 PM build a 383sbc w/a dart top end, hydr. roller cam and have a stout engine combo. If you're not going to race it or run the living crap out of it, just get a better then stock shortblock (5140 rods, 5140 crank, TRW pistons) and be done with it. If you have anything left over save it for future mods.
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