This is weird. Many of you know I am in the final stages of getting my car on the road. What many of you don't know is that one year ago (almost to the day) I drove my '67 6-cyl/PG Camaro from Nashville TN, where I purchased it, to Reno NV. The car ran GREAT!

I was just getting ready to take my car down to get the exhaust put on, but as per the Summit flyer, I needed to warm the tranny up and check the tranny fliud level. I put the car on stands, start the car and let it warm up thoroughly, put it in reverse to get the tranny fluid warm. So when I get out of the car to check the fluid I notice the drivers side rear tire is wobbling. I freak out! I figure something is wrong with the NEW 9" I assembled a couple of months back. I swap the rims from side to side, and guess what? The rim has a wobble (BAD WOBBLE). I drove the car from TN like this = NO WAY.

What in the world would cause a wobble like this?

a bent wheel....

Curbs. Blunt force trauma to the wheel.

I drove the car 2300 miles and never noticed a wobble like this?

I don't think so! This is just plain strange!

Also, there is no uneven tread wear.

It's the wheel and NOT the tire ? Correct ?

Pull the wheel and check the runout on the axel and while you're there check the wheel fitment on center flange Vs. the wheel center.

Doug it happens on whatever side I put the wheel on, so it is definitely tire/wheel specific. I am taking the Cragars off of my '56 and using them until I either get another A/R Rally Chrome or upgrade to another wheel.

What a pain!

Oh, but I am going to take this wheel/tire to a tire shop for inspection.

I have seen tires seperate the tread from the tire and wobble. As it spins look at only the wheel itself. Mostly steel radials will do it from a puncture that let water in and rusted inside the tire. Just a thought.

I have seen tires seperate the tread from the tire and wobble. As it spins look at only the wheel itself. Mostly steel radials will do it from a puncture that let water in and rusted inside the tire. Just a thought.

Or a broken belt... thats why I asked.

Is it the tire or the rim ?

Well, I think I have discovered the answer to my wheel wobble, but only after putting my Cragar S/S on the car from my '56.

The calipers are not clearing the wheels properly? The wheels are seem snug against them, but I don't hear any scraping noise-??

Couple of questions --> Can I space the wheels out? (using say a washer on each lug?)

Is it O.K. to space the wheel (safety wise)?

These are the rears and with the 8" Cragars on (255/60R15) I have plenty of room in the wheelwell.

Thanks guys!

If the wheels were hitting the calipers you'd know it instantly. You'd hear it and see grooves cut in the caliper and the wheel.

I'd take the wheel(s) to a tire shop and have them put it on their balance machine.

I suspect you have a bent wheel.

Thanks Al!

I just got through driving the car for the first time just now = WOW! 500hp naturally aspirated is a RUSH!

Tomorrow muffler shop, and Tuesday alignment.

Im sure 500 HP is just as much fun when its forced...

Painful update. I was a the tire shop today to get lower profile fronts and blackwall out the rears, and lo and behold, one rotor was cracked and the other was completly broken apart. The shop seemed to think the axle hole was to small. However, it seems the re-drilled lug holes, to accomodate a chevy bolt pattern on a ford rotor, were slightly mis-aligned. :sad: When the rotor was just floating on the axle (no wheel) they seemed fine, but when the wheel with torque was applied the got to the point on binding/cracking/breaking. I had to have the shop put the wheels on for my slow 8 mile drive home. Here is the cause of the wheel wobble:

This is what happens when you put Ford parts on a Chevy!!

If the problem started with one wheel and it moved to the other wheel, I'd check the backside of the suspect wheel.

Or the tightening event of wheel to axle. Sixty-five ft./lbs., or the value from the manf of the wheel, total torque in three steps in a star pattern.

The rotor damage is the effect, not the cause. Just my thoughts.

You would think the wheel manf's would engrave the torque value onto the backside of the wheel for future reference to the owner/installer. I know extra work, more cost, less profit. I reckon the torque value is left to the stud size/thread count.

It is a rotor issue nothing else.

They are Ford Explorer rotors re-drilled to a standard Chevy 5 X 4.75 lug pattern. The 'kit' maker mis-drilled the rotors.