posiblaz
Oct 23rd, 04, 02:57 AM
I have a question regarding bare metal . is epoxy primer going to be just as efective on bare metal as etching primer ? there is a little rust that i cant remove , just looking for some advice thanks rob
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View Full Version : striped to bare metal posiblaz Oct 23rd, 04, 02:57 AM I have a question regarding bare metal . is epoxy primer going to be just as efective on bare metal as etching primer ? there is a little rust that i cant remove , just looking for some advice thanks rob JimM Oct 24th, 04, 04:39 PM for rust you can't remove, best thing is POR15. 68RSZEE Oct 26th, 04, 03:38 AM Try some "metal conditioner" or "metal prep" on that rust and the whole body. posiblaz Oct 27th, 04, 03:04 AM thanks 68rszee . i have metal prep an was planing on using it , my main concern was that some of the rust on this ol 33 ford i'm working on it's almost like it is stained into the metal an covers alot of the cab . after i metal prep it is epoxy primer going to hold it out ? or is a metal etching primer going to be better at this point thanks rob Brian Lewis Oct 27th, 04, 05:34 AM Shouldn't you try sandblasting these areas to completely remove any rust? I would never hide rust under a paint job! It will come back to haunt you!! 68SS96GS Oct 28th, 04, 06:46 PM RUST NEVER SLEEPS and must be removed. I sand blasted what I didn't replaced, then used Rust-Mort (do not forget to rinse it off with water the next day! - then used veriprime (sp?) it is a light green acid etching primer. Then you can start with a thick primer, guide coat, long block sand, icing glaze in the low spots. Repeat this about five times then seal everything in a good epoxy primer/sealer. lightly block sand and start your base coat. Don't cheap out on the clear coat because you get what you pay for - I used glamour clear $300/gal but it sure is tough and beautiful. After the clear coat is dry use 3000 grit wet sand paper with a foam 3m pad. Keep the water flowing because any crap with scratch the clear badly. Don't use your had to ever sand else you'll end up with a wavy finish because only your fingers will be applying pressure. Buff out the clear first with a wool pad and machine compound, clean the surface really good and then proceed with a white waffle pad and a lighter compound, clean everything again and finshing with a black waffle pad and machine glaze. wathc out for the edges. Never use the buffer spinning towards the edges else you'll burn through the clear faster than you'll think. Keep the buffer spinning away from th seams and you;ll be good. HwyStarJoe Oct 29th, 04, 04:35 AM Spot blasters are inexpensive.... like $15-$30 for a decent setup. I'm shopping around for one now just for this same reason. It'll work great for getting into corners and areas that there's no way you can sand or grind. You'll still need to treat what crap doesn't come off. Check out Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45998 I know Eastwood has them also but I had trouble tracking it down on their site. |