01somta
Oct 2nd, 07, 08:02 PM
I am ready to order all my front suspension. This is going to be mainly a show/cruiser. I am having alot of sleepless night trying to decide on my front suspension, just to let you know I have a custom built four link and qa1 coilovers on the rear. My choices are either; (CHOICE A)DSE tubular UCA and LCA, DSE front swaybar, 2" drop springs, and qa1 shocks or (CHOICE B) DSE Speed Kit 3. The problem that I find with "A" is not having the height adjustability, the positive is having matching shocks (qa1) with the rear and price. The problem with "B" is having to break loose a ball joint to adjust the right height and price and not having mathing shocks as the rear, the positive with "B" adjustability, coolness, and coilovers. The price isn't really that big of an issue because I don't want to have any regrets when I am done. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Havin' Fun
Oct 3rd, 07, 06:44 AM
I have been looking over the DSE book since I met with a DSE reps a week and a 1/2 ago. If you haven't seen their "Test car" it's worth a look.:thumbsup:
My vote: "B" They have 3 different "grades" of shocks to use. Although I don't think any of them were QA1 units.
You should ask DSE if you could use the matching shocks you want. Although, I see nothing wrong with theirs.
Artemus
Oct 3rd, 07, 07:14 AM
I'm not super familiar with DSE's full line of products, I recently replaced my Global West rear leaf springs with a set of DSE 3" drops springs because my rear ride height wasn't matching the front. The new DSE leafs aren't as stiff as the Global West leafs so I'll have to adjust my rear QA1 shocks. On the front, I have the Global West tubular upper A-arms, Del-a-lum bushings, 1.125" sway bar and QA1 coilover shocks (PN DGWS101). No conversion brackets/welding or cutting of the frame was required and if I want to adjust the height, I simply jack up the car and turn the adjuster with a spanner wrench. Please note the Global West setup needs a lot of positive caster on the front end alignment, a little camber and some toe in. Good luck and whichever way you go, it'll be a vast improvement in handling and stance.
guccieng
Oct 3rd, 07, 07:32 AM
both of your choices don't fix the bad geometry. those control arms will give you a better static alignment, but the movement is still bad. the g-mod, tall spindle or tall ball joint will correct that. sc&c stage 2 does it well and corrects bumpsteer while being unbelievably inexpensive. you might want to check it out! aftermarket lower control arms will only dent your wallet with no performance gain. use whatever springs, sway bar, and shocks you want with it, also. if money is no factor, the chicayne system from ats is the way to go, imho. what about ats spindles?