Any guesses on "REAR Wheel" hp and torque? I ran it on a Chassis Dyno today and have the real numbers but lets see who comes close. Chris no tell-in!!!
Here is my latest combo:

388 ci
11:1 compression
W/P Sportsman II heads with 2.05 intake 1.60 exhaust, 64 cc chambers, bowl work and port clean-up, match ported.
Edelbrock Victor Jr.
1/2 in spacer (NOS plate and heat shield)
Holley 750 HP carb
MSD Billet distributor, initial 12* to 18* and total 32* to 38* in by 3000
Hooker Super Comp 1 3/4 in primaries
2 1/2 in mandrel bent into 2 chamber Flowmasters (1st design)
Crane Gold Roller rockers 1.5 ratio
Comp Cam XS282S
.520 intake .540 exhaust
282* intake 290* exhaust advertised
244* intake 252* exhaust @ .050
Lobe Sep 110.0
Moroso crank scraper and windage tray
P/J gear drive

2500 stall
Turbo 350
3.90 rear gear
27 in tall tires

OAT was 82* Humidity was 53%
Starting RPM 2500 in third gear
MAX RPM 6100

366 Hp/391 Tq ... N/A.

370 rwhp/410 rwtq

just a wild guess.

391 Rwhp
402 Rwtq

402 Hp
420 Tq

440 hp
410 ft lbs

Can I tell them yet?

My Dyno pulls revealed that my fuel pump can't keep up with my motor. I am running an Edelbrock 6 valve mechanical pump (130 GPH) with -8 or 1/2" line and a Fram HPG-1 fuel filter, no sharp bends or obstructions. Fuel pressure dropped from 7 psi to "0" by 5000 RPM and you could see it in the graph that the motor was going lean.
But I did pull a peak of 346 HP @ 4800 RPM and 331 TQ @ 4600 RPM
Biggest thing is that I made over 300 TQ from 3100 RPM until it ran out of fuel.
I did kill a few plugs but no other problems that I have found so far.
Next thing is an Electric pump and back to the Dyno.
I might also try back to back runs switching intakes from the Victor Jr and my Performer RPM
And if all is well I will make a bottle pull.

But I did pull a peak of 346 HP @ 4800 RPM and 331 TQ @ 4600 RPM


346 hp @ 4800 rpm would be 378#ft of torque. Something is wrong with your numbers.

There's no way you should be outrunning a 130gph pump by 5000 rpm. A stock pump should work at that power level. Is your fuel pump pushrod in good condition?

Fuel pump push rod is a new Moroso lite weight with hardened tips. I have an Auto Meter fuel pressure gage mounted just after the regulator (inline to the primary float bowl) plumbed with -4 braided line and on the last pull that I made as we were trying to figure out the low #'s I watched the fuel pressure drop slowly at first and then as I got up towards 4500 it went down rapidly to "0". Fuel pump has been on the car for about 3 years.
A builder from Year one was there and he has seen these pumps not able to keep up at higher RPM's. If I were to make a full throttle run at the track I would be out of gas by upper first gear. and then as the RPM comes down the pump recovers.

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated as I was hoping for a better turn out.

Are you sure it's the pump and not the regulator? Why did you use a regulator and what kind of regulator did you use? I would monitor the outlet of the pump to see if it is really falling off. We've used the Carter pumps on high hp motors with great results. If you're already plumbed for a mechanical pump, you might consider a Carter.

It's not the regulator, took it out and ran down the road. Fuel pressure still drops to "0" at upper RPM. The reason I use one is my fuel pressure is 9-11 pounds at idle and used to go up from there.

-4 line (1/4")??? Hope thats a typo. If not theres a big problem.
I was running a stock fuel pump and 3/8's line to 12.3's. I installed a bigger cam and lost all power at about 1000' (like someone turned off the motor) So I went to a cell,-8 line, and an electric Aeromotive SS pump (160gph ? ) and have no issue with pressure or motor losing power.

You have more in it for sure :yes:

-4 line (1/4")??? Hope thats a typo. If not theres a big problem.


That's the gauge line.

Wheew.... I went back and re-read that...my bad :o