Has anyone purchased the latest floorpan that extends clear to the trunk? Any good? Thanks.

I bought them from Rick's . The ones that include the tranny tunnel and include the toeboard and run back to the rear seat seam. I think they are outstanding. They were the ones adverised as 'made in us' although I think they had canadian labels on them. Anyway, highly recommended.

I got a set from C/I. Haven't installed them yet, but they look really nice. They seem to have every bend and curve to match factory exactly. The nicest thing about them is they join in the center of the trans tunnel. They have a flange, which overlaps about 1" or so. easy to weld in. Very easy to fill and cover up. Even someone who hasn't done pans before could do a nice job I think. I highly recommend them too!

I bought them too...they fit and look great!

A word of caution though....

My car had major rust. I've replaced both floor pans and the entire trunk (everything) including new frame rails. Since the trunk area was so rusty, I couldn't weld the new floor pans to the trunk area, only in the front and along the rocker.

The car seemed VERY flexible until I was able to connect everything with the new trunk/upper shock mount. So just make sure you brace everything if you can't fully weld each panel in.

And if your floors are so bad to need the entire panel replaced, I'd prepare yourself for some inner rocker repair before installing the new pans.

Hope this helps,
Jason

Rick you don't by any chance remember what the Canadian label said, by any chance? Reason I'm asking is that there's a supplier up here (Canada) that claims to sell just whats being described in this thread. Maybe its where Ricks actually gets theirs from? If its the same part then I won't have to order from Ricks and pay in those pricey $US.

Boy, that memory test I'll fail. Perhaps a call to Rick's? Personnaly, I wouldn't worry. On another note - good point about the inner rockers. Mine had to be repaired too. Also, these pans have a nice turndown where they are welded to the rockers. Good design.

I highly recommend them. They are much thicker than the floor repair panels that just go from the front of the rear seat to the bottom of the front floor.

Thanks guys. Great to hear about their quality. I would love to buy both halves and join them at the middle, bit my drivers side front pan and drivers under rear seat pan are fine, so I was planning on just going with a RH side. Or do you guys think I should get both, say "what the heck" and everything minus the driver's pan?
My inner rockers are fine as are the rear frame rails. I already replaced the outer rockers with used ones.

Thanks agin

If you can get away with just one side, I'd do that. Too much work (that no one will see)!

Jason

I've installed the full pans and their amesome!! Check out the link below.
The sheet metal was moving along nicely until I ran into the full quarter repo problem.

http://community.webshots.com/user/boboxer

Dave.

BTW: I purchased both right and left halves at at swap meet in Springfield OH from C.A.R.S Inc. Their based out of Berkley MI and the # is 1.800.521.2194

Wow those really look nice. Will they work for a convertible as well?

Yes. The fun begins if you find the inner rocker that they weld to is shot.

Oh yes... it will be fun. :(

I'd like to learn how to do this and do it myself, but I think my car needs professional help. Luckily I've got it bad and believe the car to be worth it. I never said I was smart! :D

Heck it must me contagious as the wife is starting to talk about a second one! YEA BABY!!!

Looks great, 396..Like a new car going down the assembly line. My toe boards are okay..do the full pans come without the toe boards? Also, what about the seat belt brace with threaded weldnut..Are they included or do you have to reuse your old ones? Thanks

396,
The look on Aarons face in that one shot 'camarogutted' is classic! My eyes bugged out too when I saw the car he's standing in front of! :D

Those pans look great! Just what I need... but it would be taking a step backwards in my project. I've been agonizing over the decision to replace the new pans that the last owner hacked in so poorly. These might just make the decision for easier. My inner rockers are OK so that's not an issue.
Time to start pricing them!

Originally posted by 1967 Panther:
Looks great, 396..Like a new car going down the assembly line. My toe boards are okay..do the full pans come without the toe boards? Also, what about the seat belt brace with threaded weldnut..Are they included or do you have to reuse your old ones? Thanks I'm not sure if the boards are available without the toeboard section? I needed them so they worked great for me. You'll need to drill out the old seatbelt brackets and move them over to the new boards but...Since the new boards have the holes punched already its easy to relocate. Only real measurments you will need to do are the rear seat brackets and your factory traction bar floor mount; if applicable. The only stumbling block was the rear tunnel. On the factory floor tunnel its wrinkled and pressed down to where it meets a mount on the bottom side then welded. You will need to duplicate this on the new boards or your rear seat will not slide down in place correctly. No biggie though. On the website the picture shows a smooth tunnel in the rear but I'll post a picture soon showing the finished floorpan with the seat brackets welded in place. Also just finished welding in place a new dash (the old one was butchered for a radio) from another car and a dash top. The reproduction dash top is also of the same great quality as the floor boards as long as you buy the unpainted one for a few dollars more.
Like I mentioned before due to the quarter panel problems that I was having this project has slowed down. I was able to locate a drivers side NOS full quarter but after dumping $1250 my budget is slim. It's no wonder people are having problems making repo quarters work correctly. The difference alone from the tip of the door jamb to the sail panel is amazing. The GM measures 15 3/4 but the repro measures 16 1/4. I find it hard to believe that the dies that stamped the original quarters are used for the new stampings. If so they need to be reconditioned!

Dave.

Unless I'm mistaken the full body pans are made by Sherman and Associates. I bought the pair for my 69 ragtop and I have to admit that they are superior quality. Every nook and cranny just like the original ones. The toeboards go up to just below the heater cutout on the passenger side and slightly lower on the driver's side.

Doug (One day I'll post some pics of my rustbucket!)

Thanks 396. That really stinks about the quarter.I mean I can see a 1/4" diff but that's really bad! I have NOS quarters on my car already. They came with the car when I bought it in '91.

So, can I cut the toe boards off the new pans and still retain the correct flange?

Panther I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to remove the metal thats not needed. I make no claim to be an expert though since I'm learning a lot as this restoration goes. The panels have a lip thats turned down to meet the rocker for welding all along the edge, stopping though right as it makes the bend upwards at the toeboards. Sounds like you might want to make your cut right there taking care not to distort the sheetmetal. Someone may want to correct me on this but I believe you would want to cut either above or below the bend to retain the floor rigidity.

Dave