Hi all,

I have a 69 Camaro & I would like to purchase a new trans for it.
Not sure which one I can use ,,a 4L80E or a 4L85E??
Do they need some type of speed wheel sensor to work correctly?

Any info much appreciated.
Thanks!!!

I believe modifications to the tunnel is on order for it to fit. Im thinking it needs a computer of some sort....maybe a special one from a retro-fit company....

Thanks for the reply.
I do know you need to cut the trans tunnel quite a bit.
Also,, you do need a stand alone computer,or go full manual.

No need to cut the tunnel.
They fit fine without hacking the car.
You have to build a crossmember.

You'll need to use a electronic speedo, converter box, or mechanical tailhousing kit.

Thanks Jake...Im not sure about new tranny retro stuff...:D

read up on 700r and 200r trannys here www.bowtieoverdrive.com

No need to cut the tunnel.
They fit fine without hacking the car.
You have to build a crossmember.

You'll need to use a electronic speedo, converter box, or mechanical tailhousing kit.

yep, I had one in my last 69 with no tunnel cutting. It was tight at the cooling lines, but otherwise fit. I made my own crossmember, could not find one that worked (the BTO unit was 8" off or so!).

Jody

No need to cut the tunnel.
They fit fine without hacking the car.
You have to build a crossmember.

You'll need to use a electronic speedo, converter box, or mechanical tailhousing kit.

Jake, would you basically recommend the 80 over the 60 in most cases? I'm doing a 'mild' LS1 by today's standards - exhaust, tuning, tune out emissions, maybe a cam. I figure ~400hp. Not a race car.

Jake, would you basically recommend the 80 over the 60 in most cases? I'm doing a 'mild' LS1 by today's standards - exhaust, tuning, tune out emissions, maybe a cam. I figure ~400hp. Not a race car.

It depends.
At 400 HP the 4L60E with some improvements should hold up OK, however an LS1 with a mild cam, exhaust, tuning, and bolt on is usually easily a 450 HP engine.

I personally use the 4L80E on all the LSx conversions I do into older cars because you have a clean slate build. You're going to be building a crossmember and driveshaft, likely going to be buying a converter, and if using the GM PCM, you have the controller taken care of, so why not use the 4L80E.

In stock form it is pretty stout (it'll take 450 HP/TQ easily), and with nothing but a valve body kit it'll handle more.

If you haven't considered a Tremec 5spd. vs. one of the GM AODs you should at least think about it. You're going to be spending close to the same to convert and you will love to drive your car 100% more with the 5spd. I can attest to that. Previously, I had a 700R in my '68 and it served the purpose failry well, however, was nowhere near as fun and exciting as it is to drive with the ability to use the clutch and run through the gears - mmm, mmm! When my 700R finally took a dump a couple years ago, I debated back and forth between rebulding it stronger vs. converting to the 5spd. I'm now so glad that I got the 5spd. So unless you only have one foot that works, seriously think about stepping away from the auto as a viable option for your car. From my experience, I just can't imagine how you wouldn't like it better unless your going for a strictly 1/4 mile car that launches at high RPM, that you can't drive home, etc.

I kind of figured you'd say that. Yeah, the guys keep telling me I underestimate the LS1, LOL. I'll probably be calling you w/i the next 6-12 months Jake regarding my options. I'm glad to hear it will generally fit. I didn't really want to cut it up too bad.

No, the 67 is getting an AOD. I already made the deal with the wife, 1 car must be auto. The T56 is sliding into the 77 this winter....

Sorry for the hijack.

If you haven't considered a Tremec 5spd. vs. one of the GM AODs you should at least think about it. You're going to be spending close to the same to convert and you will love to drive your car 100% more with the 5spd. I can attest to that. Previously, I had a 700R in my '68 and it served the purpose failry well, however, was nowhere near as fun and exciting as it is to drive with the ability to use the clutch and run through the gears - mmm, mmm! When my 700R finally took a dump a couple years ago, I debated back and forth between rebulding it stronger vs. converting to the 5spd. I'm now so glad that I got the 5spd. So unless you only have one foot that works, seriously think about stepping away from the auto as a viable option for your car. From my experience, I just can't imagine how you wouldn't like it better unless your going for a strictly 1/4 mile car that launches at high RPM, that you can't drive home, etc.


Everytime I've ever built a manual trans car, I get tired of if pretty quick. They ARE fun, for awhile.
I did a T56 in a '72 Camaro behind a 454 back in 2000-2001 before this was a common conversion.
It was awesome on the highway but a PITA in town.
A healthy engine with a lumpy cam will chug with a manual unless you keep the rpm up, and I'm not talking 3500 rpm, but just 2000 rpm, but 2000 seems like a lot of rpm at 20 mph through a 3" exhaust with free flowing mufflers.
It's one of those deals where you are either on the throttle or not for it to be fun.
That car would likely have done better with a heavier flywheel.

I did a Datsun Z car hybrid with a 408 SBC and a ST-10, and it was also pretty healthy. 11.25-1 compression, Trick flow heads, 254/260@.050 on a 108 cam, and when you were in the throttle and rowing gears there is nothing like it, but the same car with an auto was much more driveable..

I like shifting, but when I considered the finances of it all, I'm using one of the TH400's I've got. I won't be driving the car at highway speed enough to save much gas, so it just doesn't make sense for me to go to a manual or big (or modded) enough AOD. Everyone's in a different situation and should evaluate their own needs.

Good Luck!

yep, I had one in my last 69 with no tunnel cutting. It was tight at the cooling lines, but otherwise fit. I made my own crossmember, could not find one that worked (the BTO unit was 8" off or so!).

Jody
That is good to know.
I was informed that you do need to cut the tunnel.
Is it so close that the trans might rub anywhere else?

Also,do you guys have the P.N's for the 4L80E & 4L85E?


Thank you.

Imho, for a GOOD stick daily-driver, you HAVE to match the cam cruise rpm w/ your final rearend gear ratio and tire diameter or like Jake said, you may get "chugging"!!

I pretty-much have always driven sticks for my cars so have went through the "chugging"....

pdq67

That is good to know.
I was informed that you do need to cut the tunnel.
Is it so close that the trans might rub anywhere else?

Also,do you guys have the P.N's for the 4L80E & 4L85E?


Thank you.

mine did not rub at all on my 69 Camaro. It required clearancing on my Chevelle, but they have a smaller tunnel. I do not know the part numbers of the trannies, sorry.

Jody

Here are the PN's 24203680 = 4L80E
19156257 = 4L85E

I bought the 4l85E new w/converter. Selling the converter.2300 stall,I need a little more stall.
Now I need to purchase a trans controller.
I am leaning towards the TCI/Fast controller.

If you are going to go with a 4L60E or 4L80E why not add paddle shifters as well?

http://www.twistmachine.com/products/shrifter.html

Best of both worlds then, plus the 4L60/80 is programmable if you get the TCI computer for it:

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Electronics/

I was going around months and months trying to figure out what I wanted to do, the 4L trans will be a lot cheaper I think than a 6spd and with the paddle shifters you can have the best of both worlds!

Michael,,,,,,,,Quote:"Hey bud. I was doing a search on these 4L80E transmissions and seen that you said you might sell your 2300 rpm stall. What would you want for it? I assume it's a 12 inch?

Thanks,
Michael"

Cannot PM you ,your setting here on the BB has blocked PM's

Bump