I'm starting to work on my conversion. Today I noticed that the bracket that bolts to the outside of the subframe isn't going to fit right. The bracket is the same as the picture in the AIM but the holes in my subframe don't match up. I would have to bolt the bracket on with the top angled out towards the tire instead in towards the engine. Are the holes I need to be using there but hidden behind the inner fender panel closer to the firewall? I'm confused.:confused:

Thanks,

The holes are in between the inner fender and the firewall , it's a bit tight to get in there but it works .
Mark.

Here's a couple pics, Fred, should help. Yes, all but the lower front bolt is hidden completely behind the inner fender. The upper rear was a real beetch the first time, with the car together. I had to use a crowbar to move the inner fender out of the way to get the bolts started.

All three holes should be there, but the top pic does show some others in that area. Pics are a 68, but all years should be the same.
http://home.comcast.net/~Jimragtop2/zbarbracket1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~Jimragtop2/zbarbracket2.jpg

Are those holes suppose to be threaded or do I need to tap them?

They are threaded. I chased mine with a tap before I used a bolt

comcast is annoying me... those pics displayed last night, now they won't...
In my ftp s/w, they weren't there, so I put em back, but they still won't show...
Hope they come back.

Thanks for the responses. The Z-bar bracket is on the car.

These holes were not threaded on my 68 - I had to tap them. I was also thrown off at first and thought they sent the wrong bracket but if you look closely you'll find the holes. I cut out a small portion of the fenderwell in this area(unoticeable unless you knew) to allow for better access to the bracket bolts.

The production bolts were self-tapping. :)

I used self-tapping one to put my bracket on. This morning I got the pedals installed. Tomorrow I'll tackle the rest of the Z-bar install. I hope it will clear the headers.

IT will, but you gotta be an unholy contortionist to get it in there. I always had best luck from the bottom, but have to twist and turn it some.

I'm figuring that I may not be able to get the Z-bar in place until after I pull the tranny out. It's even difficult to get the oil filter off now because of the headers. I'll know in couple of days!

I fought for about 2 hours with the Z-bar. It looks like it will fit OK once its in, but getting it in is going to be rough. I will try again after I pull the tranny. Looks like I'll have to drop the headers or at least shift them around to get the Z-bar situated. :(

I would imagine header design has alot with the install. If tubes are in front of the Z-bar, then bar can be installed from the rear/bottm. Hold tongue in left rear molars and clamp hard, but not so hard to bring on blood blisters. I broke an engine ball stud one time and replaced it by installing the stud into the tube, then install the Z-bar.

Nice thing about the ball stud is a 9/16 wrench is used, the same as the oil plug. Meaning, when changing oil, check the tightness of the ball stud. I would not put Loctite on the stud threads cause if it breaks, right at the narrow minor thread diameter at the flats, the remaining threads will easy to remove from the block. Use a long pin punch, 24" or so, ground down to a point and a small hammer. Place punch about the outer thread diameter and slower/carefully unscrew the remaning threads. Once it starts, reach up by hand and unscrew. With oil filter removed, replace stud into tube and rethread new stud. Ask me how I know this......broke one in 1969 on a '64 Impala. Still have the punch and two extra studs, 1969 price, $2.12 each with seal.

On the pivot studs, be sure to have the spacers, especially for the engine stud bolt, to fit between the round head and inside of the circular tube. These spacers spread the load from the tube to the round head. I think the frame stud gets the same spacers. Grease the bejesus out of them.

Good luck.

Only the frame bracket end of the Z-bar uses the delrin ball seats and retainer; the engine stud end doesn't use them - just the ball and the square-section rubber grease seal. See the A.I.M., UPC 7, Sheet C3.

:beers:

i don't know if i got the wrong bracket or not, but the 3 holes in my subframe were not aligned with the bracket. The 2 holes on the bottom were fine, but the third was like the bracket was opposite hand or something.
i used the 2 bottom holes and had to drill and tap the third (top hole)

http://www.camaros.net/showroom/data/538/medium/DSCF0062.JPG

bracket came from Ground Up in their automatic to manual conversion kit.

Everything bolted up fine though as installed in the pic above, z-bar cleared the headers just fine. (Summit brand headers)

Rob

Only the frame bracket end of the Z-bar uses the delrin ball seats and retainer; the engine stud end doesn't use them - just the ball and the square-section rubber grease seal. See the A.I.M., UPC 7, Sheet C3. :beers:Thank you, JohnZ, for the education.