I was talking with an old fellow last night who used to do ground up restorations. I told him about my 68 that has some minor bubbling around the back wheels. I have been thinking anywhere from 1/4 patch panels to full quarters. He said maybe I should sandblast them, then use lead body filler to build them back up, depending on how bad they are under there. He still does that kind of work. I thought lead had gone by the way side and that the newer type fillers tend to crack back out.
What's y'alls opinions.

If you can find someone who can do lead, use him. Lead ain't dead, and it works GREAT. Of course new sheet metal is the best way, but if you need to fill, lead is WAY better than plastic. It won't come out if it is put on right.

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57 Plymouth Savoy in my family since new, just cosmetically restored, 93 S-10 waiting on the 50 Dodge truck to be built then one s_10 for sale, Angie's mechanic and designated Vette cusser.

I still do lead work. Cut the rust out and solid weld a patch panel then lead it. There's nothing wrong with plastic fillers as long as you use a very thin layer. If you're real good at shaping and carving Bondo, GO AWAY AND FIND A JOB WHERE YOU CAN MAKE SCULPTURES OF NAKED WOMEN!!!! I try to use less than 1/16 inch of filler. If it's on and edge, high stress areas or in a spot where it's prone to getting knicked to chipped, I like lead cause it'll dent more than a taking a chunck of filler off. Exposed filler will asorb moisture and cause the panel to rust.

I still do lead work as well. Flat panels can be a problem with heat as they tend to warp in some cases. A good lead man will know right away where lead can be used without creating a problem bigger than the one he is repairing. In general terms, if a guy uses lead, he is probably a very experienced body man.

I took my 68 over for him to see last night. It's worse than I thought. He suggested I cut out both quarters about an inch or so below the top ridge and weld in what I think will be just skins (as opposed to 80% or full quarters). Then use lead to finish it off. He also suggested I replace the inner wheel wells and new door skins and the shells will need some work. He thinks he can save them but there's more rust there than I thought. Anyway he said with weld patches and lead it would be about as good as can be done. Then he'll strip it all the way down and paint it.
I was impressed with his knowledge and I like the fact he would take it on next winter and have it done by spring. Now to see his estimate later this week. Any guesses on how much it'll be? Does this sound like a good approach? How much different does this sound than a complete frame off ground up restoration?
One last question, what are the implications of changing the body color? It's ash gold with ivy gold interior which both look Pee green to me. I was thinking of going to ralley green body with white bumble bee stripe and white conv top.

Allen, Toby, I have to say I don't have much support for lead. You sound like you use it regulary, convince me. I would love to use it as I do a lot of metal finishing and fab work. I have seen so many lead jobs fail, either it's the tinning compound or the paddle wax, something comes up through the paint later.

There are a few plasic fillers that are waterproof like evercoats "Kitty Hair" so that isn't a problem.

Like I say, I have only leaded once a number of years ago when I was an apprentice and it did seem to be a cool way to repair. Please give me some feedback as to how successful you have been and what is your tips on the paint issue. Thanks!

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Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick

Hey MARTINSR,
You're right, I can come back and get ya. It's probably the tinning flux (acid). You gotta make sure you clean the metal real well. I use baking soda and water to neutralize the acid, then rinse well with water, and then a metal prep (for the flash rust). Before you prime, use a degreaser.

Lead jobs fail for a couple of reasons and Allen M. has touched on one of them. Another is failure to maintain a proper temperature throughout the process. Ruby fluid must be applied over hot metal. The lead prep coat must be applied evenly and completely with no discoloration (hot spots or missed spots).The lead itself must be applied starting at one point of the repair and continuing through the repair without interuption or change in heat of the substrate in the adjacent area.
As Allen says, the acid must be neutralized or paint problem will result.
Over the years, I have taught several people how to use lead. Generally speaking, it will take the average person many attempts to learn the process and it gets expensive very quickly indeed.
Incidently, bee's wax is my personal favorite paddle isolater. A proper soldering tip on the torch is also vital to producing a quality job. It gives a wider area of heat and has a much softer flame. They are bought at some paint and body shop supply stores and should be used with a number 3 or 4 tip along with proper adjustment of the gasses. They attach over the end of the torch tip and are vented to allow ambient air to enter the flame.

Thanks for the insight, I'll give it a look and see what I can do.

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Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick