I am restoring a X-22 as some of you already know and I need some advice. The motor is at the machinist, before we get too far along I was rethinking what I might do. Would it be stupid to stroke out this motor and try to get all the HP I can. I plan to use 9.5:1 compression and a stock aluminum manifold from 69 to try to keep it looking somewhat original. No hi-risers or anything too racey.

So first question I get asked is "What is the goal of the motor, how much power do you want?"

A. I want to make as much power as possible!:D but be able to make it from stoplight to stoplight and have reliability.

What do you want the lope to be like?"

A. Moderate. That seems reasonable to me. I need to be able to drive it. Not tweak it every 5 miles on the side of the road.

Then I ask, "Should I use forged pistons?"

A. I was told it would not be necessary for my application. But I question that since it cant be that much more anyways. What do you think?

"Should I get a roller/rocker setup?"

A. Not sure let me ask my engine guy I will get back to you. So what do you all think?

"Should I stroke this baby?"

A. same as above.

Am I being crazy here? I have a daily driver but I do plan to drive this car once and a while, local cruises etc. and I don’t want it to be lacking in the HP dept.

TIA



SPECS

Engine- Cast# 3999289
Serial# CE555864
HI PER Pass F9
Build Date- June 18 74
A 1972-75 454ci 4-bolt main
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Heads-

Drivers side – 6272990
GM 2T
HI-PERF
E 7 75 = May 7 1975
Passenger side – 6272990
GM 1T
HI-PERF
E 5 76 = May 5 1976
Intake Manifold-

3885069
2-hole Open Plenum
Crank Shaft-

7115
1965-69 427 Forged Steel
Main Journal – 1-4 : 2.7495
5 : 2.7488
Rod – 2.20
Stroke 3.76
Pistons- These are getting axed

L2239N
427/430 HP ZL1 Option
Impact Extruded Alloy Alum.
Slipper Skirt
Oilring Depth .23
Floating Pin
Weight 28.99

Piston Rods-

.365 Rod Bolt
7/16 Threads
Floating Pins

Aren't those the smog heads? I remember my engine builder telling me to get rid of them. Best thing you can do with a big block is get a good set of heads.

One thing I'd do above all else is install a hydraulic roller cam. With all the changes in oils over the last few years, Zinc is all but gone. I used a flat tappet, and within a couple hundred miles, I had wiped a cam. Actually probably wiped it earlier, but it was "only a light tap, so I drove it a few more times.

Net result was the opportunity to pull the motor and spend $2k. (of course that includes the new cam and lifters, which I should have spent in the first place.

As for roller rockers, if you want it to look stock, the most you can do is use comp's roller tip rockers. If you go with tall valve covers for the roller rockers, you may have problems with interference w/ booster or wiper motor.(really depends on your motor mounts and towers.) Legendary Motorcars did a car (Corvette, I think) in which the used a 1/2" cast aluminum spacer between the aluminum heads and stock covers. They even painted the gaskets etc, to make them less noticable.

If money is not to big of a deal, stroke it, good set of heads, roller cam and rockers, hyper pistons, no need for forged. If you must use original intake that will affect the heads and cam to choose.

There is so much this car needs that unfortunatly money is an object to a degree. But I want to get it as right as I can from the start so I dont have to spend too much later to correct mistakes. What are some good aluminum heads/manifold and what cam to go with them?

If you want it to look original, 074 aluminum (L89 heads) will set you back $2k or so.

I agree with you though.....do it once, right. Even if it takes a couple of extra years to get it on the road.

Ive been thinking about this a while. This is a restoration but the motor is not original. So I have decided for this motor to go the performance route. Since no one had any objections I will prob stroke it and get a dart or similar aluminum head kit/manifold with a roller setup from Summit and a Holley 850 DP I already own. Any suggestions on a streetable cam? I will also be updating the ignition of course.

Once its done I will see how much money I have left. There is always time to look/find/buy a correct motor. I own a cherry picker and stand so swaps will be easy. If I take the trouble to do this I want date correct 1968 parts and that might take time to locate. Definatly lots of $$.

With some mouse motors easily making 400+ HP I dont want to be left short. I plan to run this very occasionally at the strip. If I can get 11's or better that would be really cool imo.

What about those ProComp heads on ebay for 1k? Seems affordable, are they good heads for my motor?

For street use and some strip use I think the AFR's are a good choice. the DART aluminum pieces might be a bit too big for what you are doing....

hard to beat the Victor Jr intakes for what you are doing...

A poked and stroked 454 to say 496 cid, 10-1, lumpy hydralic roller with good heads and 850 DP will make 650 HP with no problem-you'll be deep in the 10's with a matched converter and gears-

My builder seems intent on using Dart heads. He looked at the AFRs and his exact words where those are too big for what you want to do. He says they make HP at higher RPM. He suggests the Dart 275cc complete heads, oval port with RPM Air gap intake. Comp Cams cam, he said .600 lift, roller rockers etc. I can get all the specs if you need.

Honestly I would like something more affordable than the Darts 3k price tag. Is that why you recommend the AFR's? If I have to spend it Im going to, Its streching my budget though.