69 sb a/c with solonoid on carb

I have my old engine harness out of the car. The white sheathed wire on the pos. coil ( with a yellow wire) is frayed and cant be safely used.

Does anyone know where I can get a new white orignial style sheathed wire for the coil?

Also, the sheathed pos. coil wire is on the same terminal out of the engine harness connector as the ( not being used anymore ) thicker red solonoid wire that used to go to the carb. My idea is to run a small 4 barrel carb with electric choke and use this red wire to power it. Does anyone know if this has the full 12 volts.? I read that the sheathed coil wire doesnt but the little yellow one with it does ( for starting?). For the electric choke, I think you need a full 12. I would guess the old solonoid wire did have the 12 volts?

All the other wires, terminals and connectors look to be in great shape on the engine harness so I'd love to find just that coil wire if possible!

That red wire will be fine for the electric choke.
No idea where you can get another resister wire. Maybe from someone's old harness?
People commonly cut this wire out when going to electronice ignition.

Most folks convert to an electronic ignition, unless you're going for an OEM appearance. Even then, you can get a distributor with factory correct appearance.

To the point...electronic ignition setups replace that freyed resistance wire with a new copper wire. You could use a ballast resistor if you intend to reuse the breaker points or use an electronic ignition that requires ballast.

If you replace the freyed wire with copper, you'll no longer need the extra wire from the starter solenoid to the coil (+). There are some ignition switches out there that require the wire because the I.S. doesn't keep the power on during a crank.

Id like to wait awhile on the electric ignition so Id like to keep the points temporarily.

My new question is: On the harness, I took apart the wire covering and the white sheathed wire is only bad for about 3 inches right after it leaves the wrapping. The original wiring of that wire went from the pos terminal, into the wrapping, down along the yellow starter wire 4 inches then made a u-turn back up to the hanress connector.
At the u-turn,( under the black harness wrapping) the wire was exposed at the sharp bend and had a little protector on it of about an inch that covered the u-turn. I was wondering if I could just cut the wire there, and not follow the yellow wire down and then back up the harness, and instead just connect that "cut at the u turn bend" part of the sheathed wire to the pos terminal. In other words, is there some reason that wire was exposed and then covered and made a u turn inside the harnes wrapping?

I hope you understand that and I wish I had a camera but I dont right now.

That resistance wire has a specific ohms-per-foot rating. They looped the wire on itself to get the proper length and proper resistance. If you cut it short, you'll decrease the resistance proportionally.

If you're not ready to replace it with copper, about your only option is to nip off the bad stuff and reuse it. Hopefully you wont have to cut off for that a few percent of the length.

That resistance wire is a different material. It's brittle and does show oxidation worse than any other wire. For one thing it gets hot and that worsens the corrosion problem.

If this is temporary, what about using a balast resistor and copper wire?

I don't think you'll have any problem with nipping off a few inches of it.

On the parts that are missing the white cloth covering, theres still black insulation over the wire so I guess its ok to put it back, it just looks horrible lol.
I was going to cut the three inches off the end of the resistance wire so I cut the original fork terminal off and ruined it . Now the
problem is what terminal to put on. Im not an electrician and was wondering what kind of replacement terminal to use.


What still
puzzles me is that loop with exposed wire and the separate
covering on it . It looks like a tiny sock over where it makes the u turn which had no insulation on it. I was wondering what the negative effect of having that wire 3 inches shorter would be on the ignition system? Id still like to cut off the bad part but dont want to risk messing the ignition system which worked fine before I took the car apart lol

i looked all over the internet for a replacement gm coil terminal with no luck. It looks like the letter h but all I see are the standard fork terminals and ring terminals. I took out the un used orange extra blower wire when I re wrapped the harness.
That loose unused wire kind of
annoyed me lol. I think that is ok to remove that from the harness connector?

I appreciate the replies on this coil wire stuff

I take it it's an A/C car?
The "extra blower wire" in the engine harness on an A/C car is toitally dead, do what you want with it.

Do you have a Napa nearby? Ask the counter man to let you page through the "hard book" of electrical parts. Toward the back, they have a section on connectors and terminals, with drawings. Bet what you need is in there. Bad news is, they probably won't have em in stock. And they probably have to order them by boxes of a hundred. and they may not want to order a hundred to sell you one.

a few years ago i replaced my resistance wire.
I got a replacement wire from NAPA.

I'll call napa tomorrow...thanks. In the meantime, i scrounged through the trash and found the little mangled coil terminal I threw out and got out the tiny dremel tools, needle nose and ice picks, small hammers etc and opened up the soldered spot on the terminal I couldnt open before that pinched the wires. This has got to be the nicest looking mangled coil terminal in the world now lol. I attached it to the 3 inch shorter after being snipped resistance wire and I guess its a decent back up in case I cant find a new one.

is this the part?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-69-CAMARO-Z28-CROSS-RAM-ZL1-COPO-NOS-T-I-HARNESS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQihZ015QQ itemZ250179963921QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

that looks like the right wire and terminal. I decided to cut my resistance wire 2 3/4 inches and put the old terminal back with the yellow wire on the pos stud. The rest of the white wire is in good shape, it was just the part near the coil that had aged and looked ragged.