Looking for suggestions. I have one really messed up dash and one used dash thats in great shape. They both have rust a few spots are bad. Currently I plan to save the part of the original dash outlined in red and throw away the rest. Or would it be better to get a NOS or replacement complete dash and transfer the VIN to the new dash? Im now there might be legal issues, Im more concerned about people thinking there is something shady. So either way I go it will all be videotaped and documented.

http://www.easymoney69.com/Images/Dash_01.jpg

http://www.easymoney69.com/Images/Dash_02.jpg

http://www.easymoney69.com/Images/Dash_03.jpg

I would probably use the new one complete. I wouldn't worry about any legal issues as long as the hidden vins match. You have already removed the vin from the car anyway. I have replaced the dash tops on some of my cars and just pop rivet it back on. Some use the rosset rivets like original. Some are going to disagreee on this.

That certainly will be a lot easier than cutting and rewelding the 2 old dashes together. I am looking for a NOS complete dash if anyone has one for sale.

How bad is the lip where the windshield sits on the dash that's straight? If it just has the normal pinholes and slightly larger holes, I think I'd just fill them in with welds (I can elaborate if you don't know what I mean), weld-thru primer the backside, and use that one.

I seem to recall seeing some GM NOS dash panels that had a different shape for the speaker hole, more oval/oblong pattern than rectangular. And I assume you know about the issues with the repro dash top.

Either way, the main thing that presents a challenge to saving the OE dash panels is repairing the lip where the glass sits in some kind of lasting fashion, while it's still attached to the car. Since that one is out and you can get to the backside/underside, it should be fairly easy to fix it and just reuse that one.

That certainly will be a lot easier than cutting and rewelding the 2 old dashes together. I am looking for a NOS complete dash if anyone has one for sale.

what year dash are you looking for?

Its off a 1969 that was built December 68. If I buy a NOS it will have to be exact or it would all be pointless. I was not aware of any issues/differences but I will look into that now.

The new dash is pretty straight but has some rust holes near the windsheild. If I cut the part I was proposing off the old dash it would replace most of the cancer in the newer part. I also have a new repro dash top, I could cut that lip off of and weld in. Im thinking with my limited skill about a days work at least.

Or I could just transer the vin to a NOS part and bolt it in... Lets see if I can find a NOS dash.

OK NOS is diffferent, Repops are different. I have a original dash that I will cut and reweld. But how deep do I need to cut. If I cut back too far im into the bend and in the upper part you can see once the windsheild is in. If I dont cut enough I will be welding against pitted metal and from past experience that is difficult. Here is a pic. Im thinking I will have to cut into the upper dash and just make sure to do a really good job.

http://easymoney69.com/Images/underdash.jpg

How about one of these? Looks like a much easier way to fix the issue. Completely one-piece.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/belairbobs/1068EA.jpg

Have 2 on the way.

Hey Bob, Whats the price on a new dash?

hey bob how much are these one piece dashes. i'm going to need one thanks Greg

Hey Bob, Whats the price on a new dash?

The complete steel dash is $249,which includes FedEx Ground shipping.

do they make a 68 complete dash???

do they make a 68 complete dash???


Not yet, but I would guess its in the works. The response on the 69's has been strong, so hopefully the 67-8s will follow soon.

how much do you think an original uncut dash for a 67 is worth Bob??

About $1000 for a 69. Sure its the same for 67.

how much do you think an original uncut dash for a 67 is worth Bob??

Hi Armando,

By "uncut" you mean its still in the car? Once its removed, its slightly cut IMO, but a nice solid steel complete GM dash has to be $500 plus. Just an opinion, of course.

My dash top was repaired with a GM stickered piece and it has the oblong football shaped hole pattern on top meaning its not a perfect rectangle. I would guess the repair was done in the 80's. My question is about those pictures with the rectangular speaker hole dash pattern, is that how the car came from the factory? If so, any guesses why GM replaced them with a different shaped speaker hole grill pattern?

Im guessing that when the question came up at GM as to what part to use for replacements back in the day, they had this part which fit with only minor differences and it covered several cars. No one was aware how picky we would be about stuff like this 35+ years ago so it was an acceptable replacement at the time. So they never boxed up any "real" camaro dashes for stock replacement items just the one you see now.

Hi Armando,

By "uncut" you mean its still in the car? Once its removed, its slightly cut IMO, but a nice solid steel complete GM dash has to be $500 plus. Just an opinion, of course.

What I mean is that the section of the radio is uncut, seems that's where most of these get chopped up at. here's a picture of the one I have. I've had a few people ask me how much I would sell it to them but I have no idea about a fair market price. :confused:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/texasdvldog/parts/camaro028.jpg

For a pull with surface rust you would have to check ebay for a idea. You can search closed auctions if there are any or maybe one running.

Heres one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-1968-FIREBIRD-CAMARO-METAL-DASH-PANEL-1967-GM_W0QQitemZ130176388251QQihZ003QQcategoryZ10076QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) that didnt sell but he was trying to get $200 and I think it was cut up though.

i was kinda keeping an eye on that one too. not sure if it didn't get any bids cuz it was in Canada?? (shipping cost)

Bob,
That's A Good Price . I Bought One Last Month And Paid $249.00 Plus Shipping .
Ben

Thanks Belairbob for hooking me up with a good deal on a complete dash. Im looking forward to getting it! This will save me a weekend of work. However my boss just told me he needs me to work this weekend so it seems I wont be able to avoid that.:mad:

Question for anyone. Procedurally Are there any parts I should install first or are easier to install before the complete dash? I know I dont want to put anything in that might get burned when welding but I also dont want to end up welding it in and realizing I should have done something else first.

Thanks again to BelAirbobs excellent service I got the dash on Tuesday.

Here is the new dash test fit. The lip doesnt meet the cowl as well as the original or the dash top I bought from CI. Those clamps usually get things pretty tight for me but I might have to use screws or clekos to hold it closer then weld up those holes after. The factory did use quite a few spot welds so thats what I will likely do.

It looks like where the speaker grill was punched the metal was worked a bit more in that area and does not lay as flat as the factory dash. So the dash is a bit tweaked but once its all welded in it will be ok. I dont think most people will be able to tell.

The tape I have on there is showing where the holes in the cowl are from the factory. I just put them there so I dont drill holes for welds above a spot where there is nothing to weld to.

http://www.easymoney69.com/Images/NewDash.jpg

If it wasn’t for the other threads about this I would not have got my dash roughed in in about two hours. It was my first time... This is by far the best 1st gen website! :beers: Thank you to all who contribute.

It fit really well. Having to attach it to the cowl with screws to get the metal flush actually springs the dash up so it pretty much holds itself up without aid of the brackets underneath. Pretty cool imo. All in all I would recommend this dash to the do it yourselfer looking for a quick solid inexpensive fix.

http://easymoney69.com/Gallery/d/367-1/DashWeld_0018.jpg

http://easymoney69.com/Gallery/d/369-1/DashWeld_0022.jpg

http://easymoney69.com/Gallery/d/373-1/DashWeld_0029.jpg

If it wasn’t for the other threads about this I would not have got my dash roughed in in about two hours. It was my first time... This is by far the best 1st gen website! :beers: Thank you to all who contribute.

It fit really well. Having to attach it to the cowl with screws to get the metal flush actually springs the dash up so it pretty much holds itself up without aid of the brackets underneath. Pretty cool imo. All in all I would recommend this dash to the do it yourselfer looking for a quick solid inexpensive fix.

http://easymoney69.com/Gallery/d/367-1/DashWeld_0018.jpg

http://easymoney69.com/Gallery/d/369-1/DashWeld_0022.jpg

http://easymoney69.com/Gallery/d/373-1/DashWeld_0029.jpg



Lookin' good Tim.....:):thumbsup: