Hey guys. I have headers on my SB and #1 and #3 cylinders are giving me a heck of a time. They burn through the plug boot. I have these insulators over the boots, but they still burn through. Does anyone have any suggestions I can try? Perhaps wrapping the headers and using the insulators? How well does header wrap actually work? Is it a waste of money? It's a real pain. I have been lucky enough to have some spare plug boots, but they have run out. Next time I am going to have to fork out cash for a new set. When this does happen I was thinking of going with the Taylor 10.4mm set, but I still have to keep them from burning through. I would really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks guys.

Sometimes a "shorty" spark plug can gain you the clearance you need to move the boot away from the header. I think Accel makes them. Maybe some others as well.

I'd buy new headers before applying header wrap. It looks like hell, but that's just my opinion. I've heard that it can trap moisture and eventually ruin your headers, but have no personal experience to back that claim.

I've run 8mm taylor wires in hard contact with the #3 tube for extended time with no burnthru. I now has "adjusted the tube" and gone with accell short plug to eliminate the contact.

I've run 8mm taylor wires in hard contact with the #3 tube for extended time with no burnthru. I now has "adjusted the tube" and gone with accell short plug to eliminate the contact.
I have run Taylors witht he same results. I have MSD's on my current poroject, but no run time yet.

Mike

I was just working on my plug wires today.....I have the Mallory, 8mm, universal "Pro Wires" with 90 degree angle plug boots......My header equipped motor was burning the boots, to a crisp, on the #5 and #6 cylinders due to wrong angle plug boots (180 degree)!.....I now have plenty of header to boot clearance switching over to the 90 degree plug boots......Try to avoid using the header wrap simply because it doesn't look good with the headers all wrapped up!!!......The 90 degree boots will give you the clearance you need.:yes:

I now has "adjusted the tube"


Jim....I was thinking of "adjusting the tube" on mine also but I couldn't fit the sledge hammer down there to beat the crap out of it!!:D:thumbsup:

be creative. I used a long brass punch for the finish work. To get the initial shape I wanted, I wedged a piece of wood in there, then beat a long pry bar between the tube and the wood!

Regardless, buy Taylor wires. The boots won't burn, never. 8mm has always been good for me.

be creative. I used a long brass punch for the finish work. To get the initial shape I wanted, I wedged a piece of wood in there, then beat a long pry bar between the tube and the wood!

Regardless, buy Taylor wires. The boots won't burn, never. 8mm has always been good for me.


I'm pretty sure I could have thought of something if it came down to that however switching from 180 degree boots to 90 degree boots solved the "burning boots", clearance issue!:yes:

My wires don't get anywhere near the running hours you guys do, but I run Accel wires with pretty good results. I started using them because I didn't like a spot on one of my MSD wires. And I just can't bitch about them ...they've done nothing but run good...and they are at least $25 cheaper.

I have at least 4 plug ends within 1/8" of the tube(1 7/8 tubes) but I've never had a plug end burn or get brittle. Hell I have to pull my left bank header to pull wires off the plugs they are so close.

I will replace wires at the drop of a hat...I just can't stand the look of a burned wire especially on wolf. nonono can't have that ****. I have 2 brand new sets of Accels and a new set of MSD's on standby, plus about 10 'old' sets.

Charlie, NAPA sells pretty damn good plug boots and wire ends... all different flavors.

you can also invest in a set of header adapters thatll give your wires and boots over 2 inches of clearance.
get em here:
http://www.nimac.biz/

also make sure your ignition timming is set up right.
Too far retarded ignition timming at idle can cause extream hot exhaust gas temp

I run Accel 8.8mm wires with 90* boots and I have also "ADJUSTED" my tubes and they still burn through. I have the DEI plug boot insulators and still no luck. Wrapping the headers will keep the heat inside the tube and help with scavaging. Plus my car is not a restored show car. It is a daily driver and the headers are already rusty. Why buy new headers at $350-$600 for a good set just to have to "ADJUST" the tubes and still have the boots burn through? I can't see justifying an expendager like that. I was thinking of only wrapping about 2" or maybe a hair more of each tube. Probably not the entire header. I had the Accel header/shorty plug, but they didn't seem to run as well as the AC Delco R45ts. My initial timing is set at 19* or 20*. That is where I have found that it runs the best. It was at 15*, but it was sluggish at a full STOMP.

Here is the perfect fix. The Taylor "Full Metal Jacket". Check these out.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D91001&N=700+4294925143+4294756594+400235+4294908216+4294 840140+4294925080+4294889567+4294791717+4294864867 +115&autoview=sku

or...

Taylor also offers these alone.

http://taylorvertex.com/hp/index.cgi/BootBuddy

Those covers are the ones used on 93-97 LT1 motors in caprice, impalas, corvettes and camaros and are still available from gm!

Yeah, but GM probably wants an arm and a leg for them. My other concern is will they fit my wire boots. I emailed Taylor and they said they are designed to fit their boots and they don't know if they will work with any other boot. Same goes for the GM covers also. They are probably designed to work with their wires and boots and not my Accel's. That would be my luck.