Looking for a controller for a single stage to launch at a variable about and with the ability to shut down after a few seconds. What do you guys recommend.

Looking for a controller for a single stage to launch at a variable about and with the ability to shut down after a few seconds. What do you guys recommend.


I'm just starting to look into this myself.
NOS has a new one called the Launcher. Looks to be spendy.
Edelbrock also has one.

It seems that any controller that pulses the solenoids requires 2 additional solenoids. $$$$$

Ron

Looking for a controller for a single stage to launch at a variable about and with the ability to shut down after a few seconds. What do you guys recommend.

Sorry for an old school Idiot here but what will this do for you again?
My aplogies for my ignorance my last NOS had a simple arming and WOT micro switch.

A digiset is a great cheap way to delay the start if you don't require ramping up the hit. You probably could use an rpm activated window switch in series with that to shut it down at a determined rpm.
If you want it to ramp up the power level then you have to go with one of the programmers, with our tuneups in the race car we just used a combo of digisets, so I really can't give an experienced opinion on them. I tend to like the Edelbrock stuff better these days though, fwiw.
What size of a tune up(s) are you planning?

I am using a setup like Sean suggests. Of course my goal is to be able to hit it and hook it right out of the hole, but delaying it by a couple tenths is enough to help getting it to hook on a slick track.

I am using a simple digital timer switch, it is programmable in 1/10 second increments from 0 to 60 seconds. The microswitch starts my timer, then the timer fires a relay which in turn fires the solenoids.

My car proved it couldn't handle a 100 shot right off the line.....at least not always. A timer might be the answer at 100hp.
But I want to spray 250 next year....and even a time isn't going to help that work.
I need to get the nitrous on early.......to get the best ET.

So that's why I'm considering a controller.
Small tire cars need all the help they can get.

Ron

I helped design the launcher if you have any questions. The base unit is pretty reasonable for the features it has.

I helped design the launcher if you have any questions. The base unit is pretty reasonable for the features it has.

You did? Cool deal!

What is the purpose of the safety solenoids? Do they go in line with the existing solenoids?

Are special solenoids needed? I have an Edelbrock system.
How hard is the pulse width modulation on the solenoids?

That enough questions for now.

Ron

The "safety" solenoids are used in series/inline with the solenoid to be progressed. That solenoid isn't progressed. It is just opened and closed. If the solenoid that is being progressed ever fails, when you deactive the nitrous the safety solenoid will shut the fuel and/or nitrous off. If you get a leak in a nitrous solenoid it could give you a good backfire.

Most of the reliability of progressive nitrous solenoids is related to the plunger design and puck material. I just tested a new puck type that shows no wear after 1000's of cycles but it isn't released yet and will be an NOS product.

There are only about 2 manufactures that actually make the solenoids, but they may make a little different solenoid for the different vendors.

I haven't had any issues with solenoids running progressive on any NOS brand solenoid. I don't run a safety solenoid. It will decrease the flow noticably running two solenoids. It sure wouldn't be a bad idea to run a safety.

My recommendation would be to call edelbrock and ask them about progressing your particular solenoids. Take them apart now and then and look at the plunger puck. Not a big deal to do at all. Probably rebuild them once a year.

The main issue I've seen is with nitrous pucks and what you call "explosive decompression". That is when the nitrous actually gets into the puck material and swells it up and "bubbles" it. This can happen if you leave the bottle open and the line full with some puck materials. What will happen is the puck will swell and shroud and flow will go to almost zero and you'll go dead rich. If you take it apart quick enough it will still be swelled. Eventually it will cause the puck material to come apart. This occurance doesn't have much to do with progressive operation.

If you look at the frequency and how much you really progress the solenoid, it really isn't that much anyhow. Say 20 Hz and 1 sec a run. so 20 times a run.

Interesting info Doug.
That would be a huge plus to see a redesign in the puck/plunger, we had constant issues with the rubber (or whatever they are) ones swelling, and eventually switched over to the teflon ones that are markedly better, but still not great. Then in 2006 at the street car super nats we had an NOS solenoid completely come apart, brand spanking new solenoid too. It broke apart where the plunger tube stem attaches to the base with no apparent reason seen. We were not impressed. I don't know about the new NOS stuff, but I liked the look of the new Wilson or Edelbrock stuff by a long margin, the NOS solenids still look like the same ones from way back but Wilson and Edelbrocks solenoid, specifically the base, was a much nicer piece. We actually had planned to have the systems completely redone and use Edelbrock parts on it based on some reccomendations.
But all of our nitrous tune up experience is for not now, we have switched to the "dark side", turbos...:thumbsup:

Sean,
Wow, that is bad news. I've never seen a stem/base come apart on the US manufactured solenoids when actually trying to cause that failure mode.

Edelbrock and the others get their solenoids from one of the two main manufactures same as NOS and as I mentioned may be getting a little bit different piece, but the overall quality should be similar.


NX is making their own bases and doing some different things with solenoids.

I would like to have a hairdryer(s) on my Nova next time around too.

Sorry to be so long getting back to this.
Interesting that Edel doesn't say in the ads to run a safety nitrous solenoid....but in the instructions for the progresive controler, it does. In fact it says to run safety on the fuel as well.

So it seems to me that unless a solenoid is designed and tested extensively with pulse width modulation, it is just going to be a risk w/o a safety solenoid. There goes another $200 for solenoids plus the mess in plumbing.

So this begs the question...why hasn't anyone designed a servo controlled unit? It wouldn't be a solenoid. You know what I'm talking about.

For sure someone has tried.....there must be a reason it won't or doesn't work?????

Ron

The "safety" solenoids are used in series/inline with the solenoid to be progressed. That solenoid isn't progressed. It is just opened and closed. If the solenoid that is being progressed ever fails, when you deactive the nitrous the safety solenoid will shut the fuel and/or nitrous off. If you get a leak in a nitrous solenoid it could give you a good backfire.

Most of the reliability of progressive nitrous solenoids is related to the plunger design and puck material. I just tested a new puck type that shows no wear after 1000's of cycles but it isn't released yet and will be an NOS product.

There are only about 2 manufactures that actually make the solenoids, but they may make a little different solenoid for the different vendors.

I haven't had any issues with solenoids running progressive on any NOS brand solenoid. I don't run a safety solenoid. It will decrease the flow noticably running two solenoids. It sure wouldn't be a bad idea to run a safety.

My recommendation would be to call edelbrock and ask them about progressing your particular solenoids. Take them apart now and then and look at the plunger puck. Not a big deal to do at all. Probably rebuild them once a year.

The main issue I've seen is with nitrous pucks and what you call "explosive decompression". That is when the nitrous actually gets into the puck material and swells it up and "bubbles" it. This can happen if you leave the bottle open and the line full with some puck materials. What will happen is the puck will swell and shroud and flow will go to almost zero and you'll go dead rich. If you take it apart quick enough it will still be swelled. Eventually it will cause the puck material to come apart. This occurance doesn't have much to do with progressive operation.

If you look at the frequency and how much you really progress the solenoid, it really isn't that much anyhow. Say 20 Hz and 1 sec a run. so 20 times a run.