It has always been my dream of buying a classic car and restoring / building it up how I wanted. Never really had the time/money/knowledge before.

So I started taking some classes at a local JC in auto-mechanics for fun and as a hobby to see if I really wanted to be serious about doing something like this. The more classes I took the more I realized I wanted to do this.

I have been lurking/posting for awhile, but I finally bought my Camaro in April of this year. I took awhile as I tried to find one in good shape that needed an engine.

This is what I found - White Interior, automatic with overdrive (700R4). Very little rust, and the engine needed work:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/CamaroOutsideSmall.jpg

So meanwhile I have been working on building up a 454 BBC to swap into the car (it had an old tired 305 non-original engine in it don't worry not messing with a matching numbers car).

So I have been slowly building up a 454 GenV BBC to replace the small block. It is bored 030 over with a .250 stroker crank (8.0L or 489ci). Block has been fully blueprinted, decked and squared, main bore are all within .001" of straightness of each other same for the cam bore. Cylinders have less than .001" taper to them and are all within .0005" of each other.

I have done all the machining myself except for the boring and honing of the cylinders. Top of the block was custom polished for increased oil return and a screen kit installed (case I grenade a valve):

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine002_sm.jpg


Heads had a competition valve job and custom porting and polishing done to them as well as all being CC'd within 1/10 of a CC as well as a run-out on the valve seat and valve face of less than 0005". All the bearings have been custom fitted to be within .0001" of each other.

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/EngineAssembly001_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine019_sm.jpg

Current progress - It looks pretty and should be just about as fast as well at I'm guessing 550-650 HP with a similar amount of torque:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/EngineAssembly004_sm.jpg


The stuff:
Eagle Rotating Assembly (good for up to 750hp) with Forged SRP Pistons
Clevite Tri-Armor coated bearings.
Brodix 270cc RR-O heads with 10:1 Compression
Comp Cams Thumpr Cam - full roller cam (227in 241ex @050").
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold.
4-barrel Holley Street Avenger 770cfm.
MSD Ignition with 6AL box.
Hooker Comp Headers with 3.5" collector and 2" primaries, going to be running a Pypes system 3" exhaust all the way out the back with Race Pro mufflers
Tilton Super Starter.
March Performance V-Belt pulley system.
Moroso 6 QT oil pan with wind-age tray.
Moroso High Volume Oil pump
Carter fuel pump 100GPH 7PSI
Ron Davis dual pass Radiator.
Earl's Oil and Trans coolers with Thermostat for oil cooler.
Relocating the battery to the trunk with the Moroso box and kit.
Por-15 Engine paint (boy do I like this paint! Brake clean has nothing on it).
All ARP hardware and Fel-Pro gaskets.

Should have a very flat torque curve and a power band between 2000 - 6000 rpm. Hoping to fire it up on an engine stand this coming week.

And then going to rebuild the suspension while the motor is out:
New Koni classic shocks front/rear
New Moog front Springs (5536 550lbs/rate going to cut them as per David Pozzi's site)
New Eaton Detroit multi-leaf rear springs (175lbs/rate)
Hotchkiss front and rear sway bars
New Moog upper/lower control arms and ball joints, pitman and idler arms.
Energy suspension fully bushing kit.
Thinking about getting a Lee Steering box (I know I am going to do something just not pulled the trigger yet).


I want to get the engine in for a while so I can drive it, but I plan on replacing the rear end (10 bolt non-posi currently) with a 12 bolt posi and rebuilding the 700R4 to handle the torque from the new engine. Least that is what I am thinking are my next steps.

I do want to thank you all on this site as it has been an invaluable resource during the engine build up and for ideas on what to do.

Hi Ed,
Nice car and one hell of a power plant you have there! Nice work so far.:thumbsup:

69 Camaro......good
big block 69 Camaro RS.......better

Nice car. Nice big block.

Looks like you are on the right track! Congrats, It is outstanding to see that you are doing your homework on this project. Keep up the good work.

Mike

Welcome, and nice job on that BB.

Can you just imagine a 4 speed behind that beast!

Thanks for all the encouragement.

Jason: I have thought about converting to a stick. But what is giving me pause is the cost. For the cost of converting to a stick I can rebuild the automatic to handle the big block torque, get a new driveshaft and a new 12 bolt posi rear end :(

Hi Ed ,very nice Quality job #1,have fun and always be safe and Happy Motoring

Ed,

Believe me, I'm not knocking the automatic, if it aint broke, don't fix it! By the way, love the blue with ivory nice contrast. Car also appears to have a great stance, should be fun to cruise!

Quick update:

Fired it up on an engine stand this week and started breaking it in. Damn cheap-a$$ Chinese valve covers leak no matter what, time to break out the pocket book and get the expensive ones :( I was drawn too the orange powder coat, that didn't cost like $400.00 Stay away from Trans-dapt products, I should have known when I had to enlarge the bolt holes that I was in for trouble.

Stupid spark plug wire harness gave out during break in, dropped my wires on one side onto my 900 degree headers, time for another set of new wires :(.

Engine was running really hot, but once initial break in was over and a change of radiator caps (current one wasn't holding pressure very well), engine was holding at 200 degrees even with a smallish radiator on the stand.

Other than that no leaks, changed the oil very clean throughout, retorqued the head bolts and intake, redid the preload on the rocker arms (didn't move much), everything checks out really good.

Engine sounds awesome just about how I was hoping it would. Holds about 12" of vacuum at idle (1100) with about 20" of vacuum at 2,500. 80lbs of oil pressure at start up, once warm it is about 65lbs at 2000 and about 45lbs at idle.

Running a bit rich, thinking of changing the power valve to a 2.5/3.5 from a 6.5, I have a FAST fuel/air meter I want to hook up, try to dial in the motor a bit more before I take it off the stand.

Im building up nearly the exact same setup. 454 stroked and poked .030. Eagle rotating assembly with KB pistons though. Brodix heads, rmp air gap. Same ignition fuel and exhaust. Full roller rocker. Do you know the part number of the cam your using so I can look it up? I cannot decide what cam to use. I want it to be somewhat civilized but I also want to run 10s. whenever I need to.:D

Sharp!

Do you know the part number of the cam your using so I can look it up?

I went with their full kit. It is the most mild of cams in their Thumpr line, I should still have enough vacuum for brakes:

CL11-601-8.

---------

I ran the motor more this afternoon, open headers this time, it has such a nice lopey idle to it now :beers:.

Compression test was 225/230 in all cylinders, cylinder leakage test in the range of 5-7%, mostly all the leakage is coming through the rings (can hear the air coming out the oil fil cap). Should be one solid motor when the rings fully seal.

Feel free to drop that engine in my car anytime!:yes:

Feel free to drop that engine in my car anytime!:yes:

Now I just got to get all the suspension, exhaust, fuel delivery, electrical / gauge work done so I can drop it in *my* car :p

Are you aware the BB needs a different crossmember and frame mounts?

I know I needed new Motor and frame mounts as well as a different Heater and heater box. But I was not aware I needed a different cross member.

Factory bb frame brackets offset the engine about 1" to the right and slightly forward of the SB position. The BB manual trans crossmember looks similar to the SB but has the offset mounting. The only auto trans offered in a BB Camaro was the TH400 which required a specific crossmember. I do not know if it will bolt right up to the 700R4 but you will have to start somewhere.

The TH400 crossmember was available from GM for quite some time. I'm sure there are some around. You should also have a new 3" driveshaft made.

I am planning at some point to replace the entire rear end (its a 10 bolt non-posi) with a 12 bolt posi rear as well as get a good drive shaft that can take my motor's torque.

Still undecided if I want to convert to a manual (5/6 spd) or rebuild the 700R4.

Couple new pics on an engine stand with the updated valve covers (this time they don't leak! :hurray:)

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine036_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine037_sm.jpg


I think the new covers really clean up the look, plus the boot covers should keep me from having to buy yet another set of wires :thumbsup:

Pulled the front clip ready to start pulling the front suspension and painting the subframe and engine bay.

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/FrontClipOff002_sm.jpg

Very nice 4 bolt block, do you know what year the block is?

Also are thinking on down the road to use a bigger carb?

I am planning at some point to replace the entire rear end (its a 10 bolt non-posi) with a 12 bolt posi rear as well as get a good drive shaft that can take my motor's torque.

Still undecided if I want to convert to a manual (5/6 spd) or rebuild the 700R4.You would have more fun driving with the maual for sure...Unless your turning it into a track car....

I am currently thinking of going a 4L60E or 4L80E and going with paddle shifters. Ends up being less than 1/2 the cost (almost 1/3) of the 6 speed. Plus I can put the 700R4 back in and take a class in auto trans and build myself a bullet-proof 60/80E. While still driving the car around till the new trans is done.

Least that is my current thought, ask me tomorrow and it might be different:D

Very nice 4 bolt block, do you know what year the block is?

Also are thinking on down the road to use a bigger carb?

I believe the block is a 91-95 GenV block out of a K series pickup.

I am using a stubstack and probably will use a carb spacer trying to go for more throttle response, but with the heads, intake and cam and based on the motor's Volumetric efficiency 770cfm is pretty dead on for a street car. Eventually I will probably switch to fuel injection.

As far as a cam choice, I put Edelbrock (Summit #EDL-7162) in my461 and it pulls incredible and sounds nasty. 240/256 560/573. I think Crane has something similiar also 236/246 553/571 (CRN-134561)
Good luck and have fun.

Big update (been lazy :( ):

Pulled out the old heater box that was all rusted from the old heater leaking. Wire wheeled it and cleaned it up:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Heaterbox01_sm.jpg

Then threw some Por-15 and their Chassis coat black on it and replaced all the weather stripping, also had to weld on some new bolts as two of them broke taking them off:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/HeaterBox001_sm.jpg

Came out really nice I am pleased with it, shouldn't have to worry about it rusting anymore.

Striped the front sub-frame of control arms, springs and brakes and removed the front sub-frame and cleaned it up. It also had a spot on the drivers side spring pocket that needed some minor welding so welded that up and then it went to the powder coater (it really needed it):

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/SubFrame_sm.jpg

Beautiful work, they sandblasted it, baked off any remnants and then powder coated it. They even painted the inside of the rails, pretty good for $250.00. Pyramid Powder Coating in Sun Valley.

Painted the firewall with Por-15 and Chassis black, came out pretty good, very durable finish.

Put the front clip back on, mounted the Global West uppers and lowers with QA1 double adjustables, put the AFX spindles on, along with the Touring Classics AFX big brake kit (12.7" rotors) and Hydro-boost unit. Brake lines are from the Right Stuff.

A special thanks to Tyler over at ATS for helping me figure out the front suspension and brake setup! He really knows his stuff and is willing to work with you to make sure you are set.

Put the heater box back on with new heater core and big block outer cover and made a small cover since the new big block outer heater box didn't cover up the small block heater holes.

For comparison here is a before and after shot (you tell me which is which :cool: ):
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Before_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/After_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/SuspensionSide001_sm.jpg

Painted the inside fenders of the front clip with Por-15 and Chassis black (pictures didn't come out too good):

Before:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/FrontClipOff_sm.jpg

After painting (pic didn't come out too good, but it looks nice):
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/FrontClipPainted_sm.jpg

Redid the hinges and hood lock mechanism in Eastwood's Zinc Phosphate paint. The below picture really doesn't do em justice they all look brand new now (from pretty rusty) :
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/HoodHinge_sm.jpg

Now that the front suspension is mostly together, I took a centerline of the rear axle / body and compared it to where the front clip center line was just to make sure I wasn't too far off before I dropped the rear suspension:

Lets see what kind of trouble I can get into back here:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/DroppedRearAxle_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/RearAxle_sm.jpg

Started grinding off the undercoating on the inner wheel tubs in the rear in prep for mini-tubbing. Going with a G-Bar with QA1 double adjustables in back with a new Moser 12 bolt true-trac rear axle with 3.55 gears with a Ricks stainless notched tank (Thanks to Frank at Prodigy for hooking me up). Should be interesting to see how the rear matches up to the front when I am done.


Took out the seats and took the dash apart to put in new gauges and for the mini-tubbing. Going to run Stewart Warner Maximum Performance line with Speed, Tach, Fuel (Dash Cluster), Water, Oil Pressure (A-Pillar), Oil Temp, Trans Temp (Under Dash), Voltage, Vacuum, Fuel Pressure, A/F Ratio (Console Pod).

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/InteriorStripped01_sm.jpg

Taking a lot of pictures on the custom work to fit the Stewart Warner Gauges in the stock dash, its looking pretty good (will post when its done).

Well that is it for now :boring:

Nice engine!! Do you have any pics of that engine test stand? It looks like what I want to build.

Looks like you have a lot of momentum going right now -- keep up the good work

nice car. sweet looking motor

Nice engine prep work.

Nice engine!! Do you have any pics of that engine test stand? It looks like what I want to build.

None by itself sorry :(


Thanks all for the compliments!

Here are the pictures of getting after-market gauges to fit in the stock carrier that I promised:

Since my car didn't have a Tach, I wanted to move the fuel gauge to the center (bought a resto bezel from Classic Industries), so I cut out the center to match the bezel:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/CenterCutOut_sm.jpg

Rear shot of same:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/CenterCutOutRear_sm.jpg

Shot of the Bezel along with the bracket I made to hold the gauge and cover up things:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/FuelGaugeBezelAndPanel_sm.jpg

Shot with the bracket in:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/CenterCutOutRearBracket_sm.jpg

Since the stock carrier can't accept standard aftermarket gauges, I removed the old ones and then proceeded to measure and cutout holes that matched 3-3/8" gauges I wanted to install:

Tach cut out
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/TachCutOut_sm.jpg

Speedo cut out
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/SpeedoCutout_sm.jpg

I cut out to about 3" and then used a dremel tool to slowly match fit the gauge exactly to the hole (I wanted it to be really snug). I also made a metal bracket to hold both sides together since I was taking out so much of the middle section.

Rear shot:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/RearCluster_sm.jpg

Mockup with gauges:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MockupOfFuelGaugePanel.jpg

Completed Front (polished the stock lenses):
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/StockDashComplete_sm.jpg

It is hard to tell with the pictures but the Fuel gauge is held at the same angle as the Speedo and Tach.

Rear:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/StockDashCompleteBack_sm.jpg

The Carrier is pretty beat up, and I'll address that when I redo the interior as another project (right now want to get the car running).

Other gauges I am going to run:
A Pillar:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/APillar_sm.jpg

Console Pod:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/ConsolePod_sm.jpg

Under Dash:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/UnderDash_sm.jpg


Anyone know of some good cleaner to use on the console?

If your cleaning it prior to painting I use mineral spirits since it wont melt plastic. Lookin good BTW :thumbsup:

Some progress on the mini-tubbing:

Cleaning off the undercoating (used an angle grinder with cup wire brush, nothing else worked very well) to find and drill the spot welds:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub017_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub015_sm.jpg

Started cutting the inner tub out with a cutoff wheel:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub024_sm.jpg

Passenger Inner tub is out!
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub029_sm.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub028_sm.jpg

Now cut out the upper shock mount, starting to get some real extra space :)
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub031_sm.jpg

Bent tabs down that I will eventually spot weld the new inner tubs to:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub037_sm.jpg

Side shot of the frame rails getting some attention:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub036_sm.jpg


Mini-tubbing is a lot harder than I thought it would be! I have been in the fetal position in the trunk more times than I can count (can't wait to weld like that). I have never really done any metal work like this before, a lot of the cuts are pretty rough and require a lot of cleanup. I'm glad I am doing this as a hobby, otherwise I'd be too slow to get paid for it, lol!

The DSE video has been a good resource as has DSE support. Their products are definitely worth the price due to the good support.

I had test fit the new tubs in (camera ran out of batteries so no pics yet). There is a bit of a gap, but nothing a few c-clamps weren't able to make go away. Started on the Driver's side now.

Been taking a lot of pics, thinking of putting together a novice's guide to mini-tubbing :p

Quick update - Mini-tubbing is done, painted the bottom of the car and inner tubs with Lizard Skin (very happy with the results so far). Installed G-Bar, Moser 12 bolt rear end with True-trac (33 spline 1350 yoke) and QA1 double adjustable shocks with 225lbs/in springs.

Before:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/MiniTub093_sm.jpg

After (lizard skin still kind of wet, it dried darker see next pic):
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/LizardSkin028_sm.jpg

With suspension goodies:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/G-Bar015_sm.jpg

Next up install rear disc brakes from Touring Classics, brake and fuel lines (1/2 feed and return) from the RightStuff detailing, stainless baffled sumped notched tank from Rick's. After that motor goes in and I'll be redoing the entire car's electrical with a Classic update kit from AAW. Then Rims and tires (torn between VWW V45s and Wheel Vintiques Billet Rallyes - have to run a wheel adaptor in the front for those thou :( )

Have tons more pictures of the Mini-tub install and Rear suspension, just have to go through them (just busy).