355 30 over , 202 heads, 600 edelbrock carb, edelbrock performer,232 duration, 480 lift 108,
hydraulic, 373 rear, timing @ 35 @ 2500, 2200 stall , 400 th

sounds like a monster wont even churp the tires

do I need a higher stall to wake up the bottom end?

any suggestions please

Try a 3000 stall convertor.

Whats ur compression??? Do you have your valves lashed? It definetly should do something. Does it chirp the tires shifting?

sounds like a monster wont even churp the tires




I know how disappointed you must be!:mad:.....What good is a muscle car that won't even do a tire smokin burnout!!.....My suggestions would be to run street tires, install a shift kit along with a 3000 stall converter to compliment the 3.73 gears:yes::thumbsup:

355 30 over , 202 heads, 600 edelbrock carb, edelbrock performer,232 duration, 480 lift 108,
hydraulic, 373 rear, timing @ 35 @ 2500, 2200 stall , 400 th

sounds like a monster wont even churp the tires

do I need a higher stall to wake up the bottom end?

any suggestions please

What kind of 2.202 heads

What gears are you running in the rear??? A good convertor will definitely help.

373 rear

What gears are you running in the rear???

3.73's?

Whats ur compression??? Do you have your valves lashed? It definetly should do something. Does it chirp the tires shifting?


X2
How much did you preload the lifters? 1/4 turn gets you best power.

How is the cam installed. is it advanced, retarted, or straight up? That could have something to do with your prob. A good stall 3000 is a good idea.

Make's me think something is wrong. I have an 88 MCSS w/307/THM400/3.73/ Carter AFB with 307 heads and it rips the tires off. Stock convertor and cam, too.

I would put full manifold vacuum onto the vacuum cannister and tune ignition & carb for max vacuum with a gauge and observe what the car does. Of course, tire diameter has alot to do with it also.

I'd guess it was tuning... you should be able to shred street tires.

You have to much duration for the converter. A 3000-3500 converter would make a lot of difference. It would also hurt your gas mileage some.

Make sure the timing curve is correct. You could use 38-40 if your compression is not excessive. If I were guessing I would say that your car is kinda sluggish up to about 3800 and then it takes off and runs good to maybe 6200. That is how mine did. I really do not think you should be able to blow the tires off at will with the combination you have now.

It's not installed in the 4 degrees advanced position w/ the cam being made a 110/106 jobber is it??

That would put it at 110/102, not too good..

pdq67

I gotta call tuning like Jim said...I gotta GM crate that I can burn the tires of through 1st and 2nd and it'll chirp a 3rd. Something about that 35 @2500 doesnt sound right.I recurved the distributor on my MSD and I set it at 32 degrees @ 4000 total.And it'll really come on out of the hole.Granted I got a manual but you got a whole lot mor motor and a bigger gear than me so I'd look there first

355 30 over , 202 heads, 600 edelbrock carb, edelbrock performer,232 duration, 480 lift 108,
hydraulic, 373 rear, timing @ 35 @ 2500, 2200 stall , 400 th

sounds like a monster wont even churp the tires

do I need a higher stall to wake up the bottom end?

any suggestions please

Assuming your duration #,s are at .050"..that 2200 stall convertor is holding you back.Add 500 more stall when the convertors companys come back.They air on the side of safe.If they recommend 2800,go with a 10 inch 3-3500 stall.Your little mouse will thank you.

I am also wondering about the heads. Has the block been decked? I had too much cam and not enough compression and had no bottom end either. AND i had a 2600 stall. For all we know the compression ratio could be 7.6-1 like mine was. This was the motor that came with the car. SOunded pretty tough but was a total dog.

Did we get an answer of head cc size so we know more about his CR??

pdq67

I will try to answer all
Summit motor 350 30 over
9.1 comp
64cc 202 heads
245/60/15 tires
shift kit but with 2200 stall no longer shifts hard or chirps tires
valves adjusted with eng running, loose then quarter turn
clevite 229-1993 cam 480 valve lift , 320 cam lift,232 duration, 108 straight up ?
was put together by engine builder, suggested cam with nice loupy sound
35 degree timing @2500
373 posi rear

what are you running for exhaust?

converter could be a problem... but once you get past 2500 rpm, it shoudl pull like a motha regardless of converter... if it ain't doin that.. then something else is wrong and i wouldn't start with the converter until you solve what is really the problem.

if you have exhaust manifolds... thats your problem likely becasue that tight LSA cam and manifolds will contradict each other. and it will sound mean but do absolutely nothing.

Trust me, i've been through this 4 times with my cars.

I tried an Ultradyne solid flat tappet in my Z (Stock DZ 302)when i was trying to improve bottom end over the 30-30 cam (Which is 254 at .050 on a 114) and keep the manifolds...

the cam I tried was 228-236 on a 111LSA 510-518 lift. It sounded mean as hell but was a complete dog all around... I put headers on and it was night and day... I eventually went back to the manifolds for showing and hated the performance so much, I figured if i was gonna have it look stock.. it may as well be stock.. so I put the 30-30 cam back in and it woke the car right back up. (not as much as the headers and Ultradyne cam) but significantly more than the Ultra cam and manifolds...

my point here is that your combo sounds fine for 1 5/8 headers but you never said what exhaust you are running.. and that could very well be a huge cork in your motors breathing capability... even in the lower RPM.

Thanks and good luck.

Ya. You dont have enough compression. From my calucaltions your DCR should be somewhere in the low 7's if its 9.1 with that cam. That cam is to big for your compression. I plugged the numbers in a 4.03 bore a 3.50 stroke, .04 gasket thinkness with a 4.06 bore on the gasket, head cc's at 64, -18 cc piston volume, 280/287 advertised duration on your came and a 110 lsa and 108 icl and it gives you an intake closing angle at 68 which gives you a 2.69 dynamic stroke. The above mentioned specs put you at 9.1 to 1 compression and then with the dynamic stroke you are sitting right at 7.1. I have a cam similair to yours but its a flat tappet so its a 248/254 duaration at .50 but like a 288/292 advertised and i have to run a 11.2 to keep it at the high end of pump gas. You might want to try a compression check.

This didn't copy/paste too good. A 229-1993 is a 108 LSA, and the intake is on a 106ICL. From Clevite's 2005 catalog


LIGHT VEHICLE CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
Part Number
.050″ Valve Timing At .050″ Intake
Valve
Lash
Exhuast
Valve
Lash
Intake
Lobe
Center
Exhaust
Lobe
Center
Intake
Duration
Exhaust
Duration
Intake Valve
Open
Intake Valve
Close
Exhaust
Valve Open
Exhaust
Valve Close
229-1964 204° 214° 4°ATC 28°ABC 41°BBC 7°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 106° 114°

229-1965
218° 228° 2°BTC 36°ABC 51°BBC 3°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 107° 117°
229-1966

200° 219° N/A N/A N/A N/A .006H .011H N/A N/A
229-1967

218° 225° N/A N/A N/A N/A .006H .011H N/A N/A
229-1968

218° 225° N/A N/A N/A N/A .006C .011C N/A N/A
229-1969

217° 219° N/A N/A N/A N/A Mech. Mech. N/A N/A
229-1972

218° 218° 4°BTC 34°ABC 44°BBC 6°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 105° 115°
229-1980

204° 214° 9°ATC 33°ABC 44°BBC 10°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 111° 117°
229-1987

214° 214° 2°BTC 32°ABC 42°BBC 8°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 105° 115°
229-1988

214° 224° 0°TDC 34°ABC 49°BBC 5°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 107° 117°
229-1989

218° 218° 4°BTC 34°ABC 44°BBC 6°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 105° 115°
229-1990

224° 224° 3°ATC 47°ABC 46°BBC 2°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 114° 114°
229-1991

224° 224° 5°BTC 39°ABC 49°BBC 5°BTC Hyd. Hyd. 107° 117°
229-1993

232° 232° 10°BTC 42°ABC 46°BBC 6°ATC Hyd. Hyd. 106° 110°
229-1994

232° 234° 10°BTC 42°ABC 47°BBC 7°ATC Hyd. Hyd. 106° 110°
229-1995

234° 244° 10°BTC 44°ABC 59°BBC 5°ATC Hyd. Hyd. 107° 117°

I still have the manifolds on,waiting to break in motor
I have mid lenght headers that will be installed soon
2 1/2 in exhaust with flowmasters
it does pull good once it is rolling
I believe the cam is a midrange cam and trying to determine if it is the one I want.The car is for cruising not highway or racing but would like to smokem every once in a while.
If I am going to change the cam, I dont really want to tear apart the engine, I dont want to change the converter as of now

I am trying to weigh my options

Bill where ya located in connecticut?
looks to me like your cam is probly giving you no lower end torque.
everything else looks ok as far as the motor goes.
I bet a sealed power CS-179 cam would work wonders for ya (350hp 327 cam)
Chevy 262-400 cid Hydraulic camshaft, 2200-5200 RPM Range, 290 intake/290 exhaust Adv Dur, Duration @.050 222 intake/222 exhaust, Valve Lift .447 intake/.447 exhaust, Lobe C/L 114.

Application notes: 327cid/ 350 HP L-79 Hydraulic camshaft matches G.M.# 3863151

get it here:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=4240
I got one in my 406 and it will spin the tires like nothing at a stand still.

Hi Harry, Middletown area
my motor aint as pertty as yours
We have met at ctfba get togethers,been a couple years
I dont want to take motor if I dont have to but
The builder suggested the cam
a different converter would be the easy out but I think it is the cam
she sure sounds mean

I still have the manifolds on,waiting to break in motor
I have mid lenght headers that will be installed soon
2 1/2 in exhaust with flowmasters
it does pull good once it is rolling
I believe the cam is a midrange cam and trying to determine if it is the one I want.The car is for cruising not highway or racing but would like to smokem every once in a while.
If I am going to change the cam, I dont really want to tear apart the engine, I dont want to change the converter as of now

I am trying to weigh my options

I wouldn't do a thing until you get those manifolds off the car and the headers installed.

Tight LSAs and Manifolds are MORTAL ENEMIES.
Trust me.. i learned this the hard way.. after spending thousands of dollars on roller cams., dyno time etc....

I don't know the physics behind it but it has to do with exhaust pulse harmonics or something like that.

Most people will tell you (and they are correct for the most part) that headers don't really make a difference until you get er breathing in the upper rpms... however I've learned from parts swapping and dyno testing that the modern tight lsa cams and manifolds don't work well together... even if it is a fairly small camshaft.

If you look at the factory designs... they are all on 114 or 115 LSA for any of the factory Hi-Po camshafts.

Everything about your combo calls for headers and freeflowing exhaust.... get that done first and then you'll find it much easier to tune.

Good luck

Aaron

thanks , one step at a time, will be installing headers first and go from there

thanks , one step at a time, will be installing headers first and go from there

Good, my bet is that will do the trick. or at least get you in the ballpark.

Thanks

Aaron

thanks , one step at a time, will be installing headers first and go from thereSuggest to buy the collector extensions and use these as a tuning tool also.