i don't know what primer to use? is any spray can type fine? or do i need high temp stuff?

------------------
1968 Coupe (http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/Camaro/), 327/210hp project in process. PS/PB, Factory AC, adding camelhumps and a CompCam 282s<A HREF="http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/Stepside/" TARGET=_blank>
1986 Chevy Stepside</A>, dying 4.3L, TH-400, no A/C, 2wd, 1/4 million miles. DCR calculator (http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/327/compression.xls)

A bare block/motor does not need primer before painting. Just clean well with a good solvent & use quality engine enamel (Plastikote is my fav)in multiple light to medium coats. I always put on a few coats of clear engine enamel after the color coats. I've never had any problems.

------------------
Mark
Original, #s matching, '68 SS, Ash Gold/ Ivy Gold, black vinyl top, 396/325hp, TH400, A/C, PS, power disc/drum brakes

my block is half and half,
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/327/327s.jpg
i will be using strip-ez on the painted part to get rip of most of it.

[This message has been edited by JIM68 (edited 02-13-2003).]

Jim,
how are you going to install the timing cover after the oil pan is already installed? http://www.camaros.net/forum/tongue.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

-Mark.

Looks like it's just used as a cover - no gaskets yet.

But it can be done - ask any good mechanic.

[This message has been edited by Vintage 68 (edited 02-13-2003).]

hahhahaah good one...

------------------
1968 Coupe (http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/Camaro/), 327/210hp project in process. PS/PB, Factory AC, adding camelhumps and a CompCam 282s<A HREF="http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/Stepside/" TARGET=_blank>
1986 Chevy Stepside</A>, dying 4.3L, TH-400, no A/C, 2wd, 1/4 million miles. DCR calculator (http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/327/compression.xls)

No primer needed on a good clean block.
I use bc/cc paint for cars to paint motors, and I've used auto paint acrylic enamel with great results. No rattle can will hold up to this type of paint. But you need to by reducer and hardener to make the shine last.
Also no peeling around hot areas on the motor. The paint looks as good right next to the headers as it does on the timing chain.

RandyB..

The rattle can stuff with no primer will last a year or so before it peels or rusts.They do make a engine primer in a rattlecan.Duplicolor or VHT.It wouldn't hurt.If you want the ultimate finish that will last forever,Use epoxy primer followed by single stage urethane.I did mine like that.The color is Hugger orange.

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/25ebf0f1/bc/Camaro+68/Back+in+and+painted.jpg?bc_0OT.A7qJZdXza

[This message has been edited by ochrisl (edited 02-14-2003).]

You might be able to add a flex addative to the paint if using a spray gun. It might stop the paint from cracking and flaking from the many hot and cold cycles the engine will put the paint through. Roger

------------------
71 camaro Z-28 clone / 67 Z-28

I have a few HVLP guns, so if it's worth it a I will prime and paint the engine using the guns, but i thought i could prime it with cans and paint with the HVLP gun.

------------------
1968 Coupe (http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/Camaro/), 327/210hp project in process. PS/PB, Factory AC, adding camelhumps and a CompCam 282s<A HREF="http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/Stepside/" TARGET=_blank>
1986 Chevy Stepside</A>, dying 4.3L, TH-400, no A/C, 2wd, 1/4 million miles. DCR calculator (http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~vath/327/compression.xls)

If you intend to use the POR15 engine coating, you should apply the rust coating first. The national distributor advised me of that. I put the engine coating (POR15) directly onto iron heads only to have it peel off, yet it struck nicely to the 2.8 in the wife's S10 without the base coat. I find with the VHT stuff, that the engine looks great but as it gets "stuff" on it, it peels or fades during cleanup.

Hi, would like to give some input on painting your engine. I've also had good results using bc/cc paint on the few engine's I've painted over the past few years. I would recomend that you do use some dp-epoxy on it first though but just put on a light to medium coat rather dumping it on heavy. I have also used single stage dcc from ppg and that works great for the chevy orange. goodluck see ya Joe.

Be careful not to put to much paint on...can act as a insolation, heat cant escape=hot engine=bad

The link wont workclick on my sig then you can go to the second page of pictures.

------------------
1968 Camaro 327/4speed
Check my progress here (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/ochrisl/lst?&.dir=/Camaro+68&.src=bc&.view=t&.begin=1&.order=&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/ochrisl/lst%3f%26.dir=/Camaro%2b68%26.src=bc%26.view=t)

Boy you've got me. Engine paints good to 5 million degrees and you have to buy them instead of regular paints. But it all ends up with the base coat being a plain jane primer. Who is that mask salesman making those labels?