I finished my trunk today. phew long day too. Im posting the before, during and after photos.
There were tons of tiny holes,a few large ones too. Someday I will replace the bottom pan portion Im sure. But for a rookie, I think it turned out great. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I filled the holes with POR putty, then some POR fiber and black POR15 over that. Then a coat of POR gray, then when it was still tacky, 2 cans of GM splatter, black and aqua. That stuff is awesome, went on like a charm. It hides my imperfect work and buys me a few years I hope. Time for a graemlins/beers.gif

http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/DCP02408a.JPG
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/DCP02500a.JPG
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/Dcp02590a.JPG smile.gif

Looks good!! I think i'm going to have to get some POR15. How much did it cost?

I'm working on the same type of project on my car but mine isn't quite as bad as yours was.

Here's to ya graemlins/beers.gif

Hey Jim! I have a plane ticket right here with your name on it! The guest room is ready and my Camaro awaits!
I'll supply all food and drink.... whatta ya say?
;)

Looks great Jim! It's really coming along nice. You should be proud!

Did mine the same way but, I could only find the grey and white splatter down here. Looks good. How about posting a few pics of the entire car graemlins/thumbsup.gif

graemlins/waving.gif Thanks guys. Im so stiff from crawling half way into that trunk, at 52 I dont think Im made out to be a hideaway...
Ram, the POR is spendy but seems to be working great for me. I bought the 6 pack of POR15, one package of their fine hair fabric, a box of their putty, a quart of the POR15 Gray, a quart of POR15 clear. I dont have the prices handy, check them out at www.POR.com (http://www.POR.com) I think they have prices there.
Joe, thanks but no thanks for the offer. Ive still got nearly 2 weeks of prepping I think. Then some driving around town finally.
I think the trunk is the easiest to work on since not much else goes in there. Now comes the floor insulation in the interior and then seats and dash.
Judd go to my site and look all you want, dont forget the individual folders too. Like most everyone in here, one thing leads to another and soon you are up to your elbows in paint and dirt.
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/
The GM black/aqua splatter is from Ricks.

Good Job! graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Looks really nice. Did the POR fabric mesh add noticable strength to your metal?
My trunk has a "flakey" area and also a few places where the light shines through, not to mention the area where someone cut an access hole to get to the sending unit... graemlins/sad.gif
I know the fuel tank mounting straps are mounted below, and they seem to be strong and in great shape, so I was hoping to firm the trunk middle section up a little but if I can put off the trunk job for a winter time project, I'LL DO IT!!!

I was always told that the spatter paint is water soluble and if you want to keep it looking as good as it looks now you should probably clear coat over top of it. When I bought my spatter paint from Rick's they told me about that and they have a clear in a spray bomb that they sent with my spatter paint. It might be something you want to look into.

Have to agree with everything posted. Jerry 67 has it right about the clear coat. When I did the trunk on the 67 I waited a few days for the paint to dry and than put clear coat on. Did it once again several days after that. graemlins/beers.gif

I used the spatter paint from Rick and it was cleared heavily. But some water got in the trunk from color sanding without the trunk weatherstrip, and it lifted the spatter. I ended up removing all the spatter paint with a metal bristled scrub brush and scotch pad, and replaced it with the stuff from Larry Christensen. It's great, and I think the colors are a little more like the originals. It is water based too, but once dried, is not water soluble. It does not hve to be clear coated.

I recently was told that the reason my spray bomb paint disolved was that I did not wait 2 weeks before clear coat. I don't know if that is true, but unless you are in a big hurry, I'd wait ample time before clearing.

WOW thanks for the heads up on the clear coating. I was not told that by the guy at Ricks. You'd think they would try to make that extra sale.
I have plenty of work on the interior to let the trunk sit for a few weeks, then I can clear coat it. Are there good clear coats in a spray can at NAPA or auto paint stores?
Kwik, yes the fabric was great adding strength to my floor. There was a long crack around the edge of the filler tube curve. You could push down on the floor there and it flexed right down. Now with the fabric in place and POR over that, you can beat it with your hand and its solid. Im impressed with it anyway.
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In my trunks I have used an industrial product called ZOLATONE. It is a marine grade product and I can order it in the splatter finish. I also use the black version on it underneath the car. It has texture and looks great. I get the product from my local store. Autopaint (aka Wesco). This material runs about $25 a quart, does not need cleared, use it right out of the can and havn't found any rust or worn spots. Looks original and wears much better the factory style stuff. graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I believe the stuff Larry Christensen supplies is Zolatone. You pay more from him. I think it is a little too dark compared to the original. The stuff from Ricks is a little too light.

On any of the trunk paints that are water soluble(latex) you can use a water-borne exterior clear satin or flat to clear coat the paint. It can be sprayed or brushed,just wait at least 24 hours after the trunk paint is applied. There is no need to use solvent based clears over the trunk paints these days, since the latex coatings are so good. Get these coatings at Home Depot, Sherwin Williams etc.

Nice Job with the POR-15 & POR Putty. It is awesome stuff. I was going to cut the floors out of my pacecar, but the POR-15 changed my mind. Check out some of the pics on my website..under the pictures section.. I think the most recent set #16... Expensive stuff about $100+/gallon graemlins/clonk.gif but worth every penny! :cool:

Great web site there Bill, and man what a chore you had on your hands there. Great website layout too.
Im taking tons of photos but Ive not yet organized my web site to host them. Thats a winter project.
Good luck with that pacecar. Come back here often and share your experience with us. Alot of us are rookies in this body work area, but its fun to learn.
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Nice job, Click. Definitly clear coat it. Question: Did you scuff the POR-15 prior to applying the splatter paint or did you apply it while the POR-15 was still tacky?

I was wondering what would happen if the splatter paint was cleared with POR-15 CLEAR?? Too glossy?

I'm trying to find a correct splatter paint for my car whereas the splatter is more of a bead rather than a strand and one that goes on without a texture...

Panther, glasses got a smudge? :D My first post here mentioned spraying splatter when the POR was tacky yet. I didnt want to have to lean inside and scuff that stuff, my back hurt enuf :eek:
I suppose I could POR clear coat it but that stuff is expensive for just a clear to protect the splatter. The clear coat in a spray can is ony $3.50 a can and sprays on quickly instead of brushing on POR clear again. saves me time and back lol.
Ive not seen a bead splatter but maybe someone else will chime in.
Now Im cleaning the tail light housings and lenses for installation this weekend. Got my vinyl top trim black vinyl pin stripping to lay in as well. And insulation on the floor of the car. Anyone bored and want to help?

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Jim,

I plan to redo the trunk in my '67 this summer. How many spray cans of splatter paint did you use in your trunk? I don't want to buy too much or too little.

Thanks,

Scott.

Sorry, I read your original post and then everyone elses and didn't re-read your's, Click. Will I still be able to manage an "A" in trunk splatter painting 101? smile.gif

2 cans is plenty. One can will do a light coating but if you are covering defects like I was, thicker is necessary.
Panther its ok, you can have an A, just send the graemlins/beers.gif
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