I just installed new head gaskets along with ARP head studs. Do I need to retorque the stud nuts after a certain amount of operating time? I have heard differing theories on this. Some say yes and some say no. As always, any and all comments are welcome and appreciated.

I highly recommend it Charlie.

I didn't have time to retorque mine when it got out of back-half hell. I had about a week to get it ready for the track and I spent most of that time rewiring. I only got in 1 day to tune and make sure stuff was tight. I figgered, heck those gaskets say Perma-torque for a reason......Wish I'd taken the time...made the time.

It was about to blow both head gaskets. One of them was definitely leaking compression between 3 and 5. The other one was getting dark as hell between 4 and 6.

Didn't torch my T1 cnc heads thankfully. Next go-round I intend to re-torque heads evry time I walk past the car.:D

I believe the instructions on my Fel - Pro Head Gasket + ARP Head bolts was to torque them down in 3-4 steps (first 25% then 50% of torque etc) in a specific pattern. Then once all the bolts where torqued down to wait 10 minutes then individually untorque one bolt at a time (in the torque order) and retorque that bolt back down to 100% of the torque rating.

I would follow the directions on the Gasket / Fastener.

It certainly doesn't hurt. Cast iron heads re-torque when operating temperature.
Alum heads, cool overnight, then re-torque.

Ed, I used ARP Studs. Did you use studs or bolts? My studs box didn't say anything like that. Either on the box or on the paper that came with them.

Normally, it's the head gasket compressing a little after a few minutes of settling that causes the need for retorquing. If gasket did not settle, and you had cycled the head bolts or studs prior to final torquing, the bolts/studs would probably not relax their stretch. Why not just cycle the bolts/studs, then follow the advice BigBlock1969RS is giving. It is sound advice.

Keith

I used bolts, since if I used studs on a big block, I would have to yank the motor to take the heads off (if I ever needed to).

It might have been the instructions on the Fel-Pro gaskets that recommended the re-torquing (aluminium head). I plan on re-torquing as well after the initial break in.

Remember, when In doubt, torque It out!!......torque, torque, torque till you're blue in the face then re-torque to make sure that you torqued!.....the Rule Of Thumb here is to Torque, Torque, Torque then Re-torque to check your Torque!!:yes::thumbsup:

I use felpro 1010 on my small block 427 , when we torque them down we just add 10 to 15 ft lbs to what they want and it's worked for me , i run track !'s fully cnc'd 11.4to1 . I did the same thing for my blown 509 and never a head gasket problem .
Mark.

I thought Felpro said specifically not to retorque the permatorque gaskets?

Thats what they say .

I have cast iron heads. I used Felpro #7733pt2 head gaskets. According to the GM manual I have, the torque was 65 ft lbs. I torqued them to 70 ft lbs. They said PermaTorqueMLS on the box.