View Full Version : Hard shutting doors and rubbing door panels


Tom Weaver
Nov 26th, 07, 09:57 PM
I’m trying to put my 69 back together but am running into some very aggravating problems. First off, the doors are difficult to shut without slamming them with the new soft seal door weather strips from Classic Industries. I’ve heard that these are hard to break in and may need to try the new $89 door rubbers???
Second off I bought new PUI white deluxe door panels that I’ve noticed don’t like to stay attached to the top of the door after closing the door a few times.
Finally I installed a pair of new OER standard kick panels. They were a B^&*h to install but finally got them in. Then I closed the door and ran into problem #3. The lower corner of my door panels over-lap the lower corner of the kick panel causing them to bend out. I wonder if my kick panel is not shoved far enough forward or do I need to shave the forward lip off a bit, allowing extra room to go forward? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gary L
Nov 26th, 07, 10:10 PM
I can tell you how my doors were adjusted. They were done without any seals or glass in place. The striker on the body was set so the door lined up with the outer body panels. I installed the glass and seals last. I used the latex seals from Heatbeat City. They are very good. I also spent the better part of a full day adjusting glass, both door and quarter. My doors shut better than new I would bet. Once I get the whole interior back in I can test for wind noise. I may not be so happy then.:confused:

67CamaroRS/SS
Nov 27th, 07, 07:05 AM
Gary, how do you adjust the door glass? My door is aligned, but I still have a gap between the front door glass and the verticle weatherstrip on the rear quarter glass.

armstrong6
Nov 27th, 07, 04:17 PM
I had problems with Classic Industries weatherstrip as well. I went through about three different sets until I found one that fit nicely. Send that crap back to Classic and buy some Metro moldings they are WAY softer and don't seem to crack and crumble like Classic's stuff. The softer seals will definitely help with your door closing issues.

hereitis67
Nov 27th, 07, 05:42 PM
soft seals arent so soft at all.all my doors were aligned before seals went on. now they little hard to shut.sounds like your kick panels still need to go forward a little more or door panel to go to back of car little bit.that little front piece of kick panel is probally kicking up your kick panel or is the rug underneath it lumped together under it causing it to stick up. for 67rs aka charlie isnt a 67 fun you got 3 windows now. first get the top molding and seal leave the bolts a little loose. adjust front main window first but leave the vent window bolts loose so it could move around some. than roll up rear window glass and adjust. might have to adjust main window a little bit to match correctly.easiest way is rolled up and door closed.after satisfied adjust vent window to match main window. took me 10 hours first time now can do it in 4 hours or less. after you got windows all set up. leave back 1 up put main down take top seal out (have somebody hold it in place)tighten screws up than make sure it is fine put rear window down and tighten up screws.

Tom Weaver
Nov 27th, 07, 07:35 PM
Doors and glass fit perfect. The doors closed effortlesly prior to installing the after market panels and weather strip. I'll try to mess with the kick panels some more and see what happens. Latex sounds like the way to go.

2x67rs/ss
Nov 27th, 07, 07:55 PM
My vert has 20year old soft seal brand seals and you still have to slam the doors to close them. My hardtop has the softer seals (cant remember what rand but NOT softseal) and they close much better. I would try to push the kick panels forward some more are the screw holes lined up?

Gary L
Nov 27th, 07, 08:14 PM
Gary, how do you adjust the door glass? My door is aligned, but I still have a gap between the front door glass and the verticle weatherstrip on the rear quarter glass.
Get a Fisher Body manual. It is detailed there. The quarter glass as well as the door glass figure in. Too many adjustments to discuss. The door glass and quarter glass both tilt. Plus the pictures are worth a lot. Not blowing you off, just the best way to do it.:thumbsup:

dbx1969
Nov 27th, 07, 08:43 PM
I still have Soft Seal weather stripping (trunk, doors etc..) that I bought months ago, and I still haven't put them on yet. I remember very well reading about Soft Seal not being so great (and this is what I have :(). It is Soffseal I believethat is the good stuff. In fact, Ecklers just had a 3 day holiday sale (email) for weather stripping and specifically mentioned Soffseal.

I hope I'm spelling it right. Both brands sound the same when spoken, but are spelled differently. And are much different in quality. I'm hoping Rick's will still take mine back when I get around to doing something about it. I've heard they would even if it's old. Still unopened...and I have the receipt :).

2x67rs/ss
Nov 27th, 07, 09:07 PM
I'm hoping Rick's will still take mine back when I get around to doing something about it. I've heard they would even if it's old. Still unopened...and I have the receipt :).

Good luck Ricks has been bought out who knows what they will do now.

wagonman
Nov 27th, 07, 09:39 PM
I’m trying to put my 69 back together but am running into some very aggravating problems. First off, the doors are difficult to shut without slamming them with the new soft seal door weather strips from Classic Industries. I’ve heard that these are hard to break in and may need to try the new $89 door rubbers???
Second off I bought new PUI white deluxe door panels that I’ve noticed don’t like to stay attached to the top of the door after closing the door a few times.
Finally I installed a pair of new OER standard kick panels. They were a B^&*h to install but finally got them in. Then I closed the door and ran into problem #3. The lower corner of my door panels over-lap the lower corner of the kick panel causing them to bend out. I wonder if my kick panel is not shoved far enough forward or do I need to shave the forward lip off a bit, allowing extra room to go forward? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

welcome to the world of repro parts!!!!!!

this is all caused by the repro delux door panel!!

its simply to thick!

it shouldnt even come in contact with your kick panel! it should be outside of it! the original delux door panels are cardboard! not thick plastic! the originals are thinner...and dont bind up in the front door to pinch weld...

you need to make adjustments on the door panel.....leave the original door alignment alone..it was fine before.

Davisalmound
Nov 27th, 07, 09:46 PM
I just installed a set of soft seals and noticed that on the face which gets glued to the roof rail, it says metro, raised lettering on the rubber. Apparently Metro makes the soft seals. I usually cut some material off of the back of weatherstripping before I glue it in place on the ends where they meet the door glass (after a trial fit), this is so the doors close better and the glass goes up and down easier with the door closed. There is usually too much material on the ends.

FastFred
Nov 28th, 07, 07:40 AM
Stop fooling around with that suff and buy a set of Metro seals the best hands down!

Tom Weaver
Nov 28th, 07, 09:50 AM
welcome to the world of repro parts!!!!!!

this is all caused by the repro delux door panel!!

its simply to thick!

it shouldnt even come in contact with your kick panel! it should be outside of it! the original delux door panels are cardboard! not thick plastic! the originals are thinner...and dont bind up in the front door to pinch weld...

you need to make adjustments on the door panel.....leave the original door alignment alone..it was fine before.

You are exactly correct!!! 100%. I did everything I could last night to make things work however nothing fits like it should. After tweaking, adjusting and comparing to my neighbors 68 (standard door panels) we noticed that not only are the repro deluxe panels too thick but also too wide at the bottom and too long. The bottom black welt is hitting the sill plate area. Shouldn't these panels fit flush with the top of the door? We noted that the Repro's don't seem to conform very well to the top of the inner back door shell next to the qtr window. My plan was to peel back the vinyl to allow enough room to cut away about a ¼” of plastic and re-3M the vinyl back down. This appears to be my only option??? Has anybody ever had to do this before? Do any of you have any better ideas? The other ugly part about the THICK PANELS is that they make it real difficult to install the pw switches as well. After all these years, I can't believe this product hasn't be sent back to a QA team and fixed to fit along time ago.
I'm also contemplating on buying a set of used panels (mine were swiped when in storage) and sending them off to "Just Dashes" later down the road. I'm kinda tapped out right now--Christmas time--

Thanks to all that has responded…


Tom Weaver
Z11Weaver@verizon.net

wagonman
Nov 28th, 07, 05:54 PM
peeling back the vinyl and triming the plastic is the way to go.....

untill you get original$ to ju$t da$he$.

are tho$e dollar $ign$?

you better believe they are!!! but dont worry.just dashes will take care of your extra dollars you have laying around!!!!!!

shoddy_F-body
Nov 28th, 07, 06:25 PM
Yes those deluxe door panels suck. I tried installing a set from classic industries on a car and they were to thick and the top rail would fall off after a few slams of the door. I convinced the owner to buy the Al Knoch panels because i heard they were the best. Same thing. i ended up trimming and bending until they fit somewhat.I wasn't real happy with the end result.

wagonman
Nov 28th, 07, 07:07 PM
Yes those deluxe door panels suck. I tried installing a set from classic industries on a car and they were to thick and the top rail would fall off after a few slams of the door. I convinced the owner to buy the Al Knoch panels because i heard they were the best. Same thing. i ended up trimming and bending until they fit somewhat.I wasn't real happy with the end result.

Al knock makes the panels!!!!!!

nobody else makes the delux panels.

shoddy_F-body
Nov 28th, 07, 09:00 PM
Al knock makes the panels!!!!!!

nobody else makes the delux panels.

Maybe somebody else should because they don't fit.

wagonman
Nov 28th, 07, 10:10 PM
completely agree!!!!!

and you have black interior.....

since Al knock only makes the delux front door panels..

when you need red or blue there are more issues!!!


they dont even come close to matching the color of the rear door panels....which are made by PUI

shoddy_F-body
Nov 29th, 07, 09:42 AM
The ones i used were orange.Didnt notice a real color difference between front and back. Sorry picture is so small.
http://www.geauxtownmuscle.com/Old%20Site/www/carimages/69%20Pace%20108.JPG

Tom Weaver
Nov 29th, 07, 03:18 PM
I called Just Dashes today, and OH Boy...550 per side to start. OUCH!!!