View Full Version : moisture problems HELP!!
camrod67 Nov 29th, 07, 05:28 PM Ok, I tried doing a search but couldn't find a post that matched my problem.
I am having a problem with moisture in the car. My windows fog up on the inside when it is cold. I get a lot of condensation on the rear window. I have 2 of the moisture collection bags, called damp rid they are collecting some water but the windows still get a lot of moisture. It all finally starts collecting together and running down, it then finds its way into the trunk. I haven't found a way to get rid of this problem yet. Any ideas??
To give you an idea of some of it's living conditions: I haven't had a heater in the car for a long time. I am just now finishing the final stages of the install of it. It lives under a tarp some of the time because of a leak in the kick panel that I think I have finally fixed so hopefully the tarp won't be needed anymore.
67for/me Nov 29th, 07, 05:41 PM I feel for you.
I lived in Washington for 7 years it took me 3 years to dry out.
Seriously it sounds like a lack of air flow problem. Get some air moving and make some space between the tarp and the car.
67for/me
martins 68 Nov 29th, 07, 05:47 PM a tarp causes more problems than helps
dnult Nov 29th, 07, 09:37 PM Sounds like your rear window may have rotted through allowing moisture to leak into the trunk area. Lay on your back in the trunk and look up. Do you see rusty streaks?
The 1st gen rear window design wasn't so bueno. Below the chrome molding is an area that loves to trap dirt, leaf litter, and water. They all rot through eventually.
My first guess was going to be your heater core, but since the rear window is fogging (instead of the front), I'd focus on leaks there first. Also check your trunk seal, tail lights and other places water can leak in back there.
chuck69ss Nov 30th, 07, 01:15 PM I agree with Dave above. The rear window channel often develops leaks. In addition to looking from underneath, you can remove the window trim. There is a special tool for this that you can get at many automotive stores. If this is the case, the sooner you get in there and patch the rusty metal and reset the glass with new sealer, the better.
These were what the corners on mine looked like when I removed the vinyl top and molding:
http://chuckbro.smugmug.com/photos/63522292-S-1.jpg http://chuckbro.smugmug.com/photos/60437681-S-1.jpg
Fred Ficarra Dec 2nd, 07, 10:55 AM I agree with Dave above. The rear window channel often develops leaks. In addition to looking from underneath, you can remove the window trim. There is a special tool for this that you can get at many automotive stores. If this is the case, the sooner you get in there and patch the rusty metal and reset the glass with new sealer, the better.
These were what the corners on mine looked like when I removed the vinyl top and molding:
http://chuckbro.smugmug.com/photos/63522292-S-1.jpg http://chuckbro.smugmug.com/photos/60437681-S-1.jpg
Bremerton huh? You need a garage.
OK, referring to Chuck's photo of his lower rear window channel, besides the fact that this location is a magnet for crud and water if you don't have a garage, it's also a trap for wash water that continues to dribble onto the rear deck after a wash and drying. (Whew, hell of a sentence on only three cups of coffee)
I sealed the steel with JB Weld. (any epoxy filler will do) Then in the lower corners I drilled a hole. In the holes I inserted a copper 1/4" tube about 4" long. The top of each tube was flared to form a funnel. I bedded the tubes with more JB Weld and pushed them as low as possible to drain water. Then I slipped vinyl hose on each tube and led them to the top of each wheel well. I drilled a hole for the vinyl tubes and pushed them into the wheel well tops. Now the window channel drains on top of the tires. No more water marks on the deck lid. Of course I only wash the car every five years or so. Get a California Duster.
Any how, back to being in Bremerton. How about a PM?
camrod67 Dec 2nd, 07, 11:24 AM I had all the windows out and checked all of that about 3 years ago. Everything was fine then, no rotting, no holes. I will check it again after all this snow stops falling on the car (that's under the tarp). I really think it is being caused from the condensation that is collecting on the inside of the window and then dripping into the trunk. Do they make windows that have the defrosting elements like a lot of modern cars? Then you have to look at all the lines across the window but it might help my current situation. I guess I need to do more investigation.
Yes! I fully agree that I need a garage, I actually have one but the way that the house/driveway is designed it is not physically possible to drive a car into the garage. I might be able to if I had a mini cooper or a geo metro. A 1 car garage with the door at a 90 degree angle from the driveway with a rock wall on 2 sides of the driveway. Probably hard to imagine.
Fred Ficarra Dec 2nd, 07, 12:35 PM Not hard to imagine for a Bremerton house. I retired from the PD there so I know.
67CamaroRS/SS Dec 3rd, 07, 05:43 PM I have the same problem. Unless you have a/c in the car you are not going to be able to do anything about it. A/C pulls the heat and moisture out of the air actually produces "DRY" air. Thats why whenever you turn on your defroster the a/c comes on. The only thing I do is try to open a window while I'm driving. Other than that, you will have to install a/c to get any "REAL" results.
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