Ok, with the fear of posting something in this forum that doesnt belong here, I am going to ask a really stupid question that doesnt seem to fit anywhere else.

I have never put an electric fuel pump in a car before and would like to for my 68 Convertible.:confused: All of the packages that you see that come with all of the filters, etc talk about hooking it up to a fuel cell. Here is my stupid question. Can you just hook it up to the regular fuel tank where the gas line goes into it or do you have to have a fuel cell? Is there room for the return line in the sending unit? Anything special I need to know before I attempt this? Anything special I have to do to the tank?

Ok, several stupid questions. Be gentle!:D

Thanks!

Yes, there is room in the stock sender to run a return line. I have mine setup that way. Just drill a hole, bend up a piece of steel tube, shove it in and braze it. Or you could use Epoxy even.

All that fancy stuff is gonna be setup for AN style fittings. You can either go back to hose fitting and either clamps or compression fittings, or I believe they make AN fittings that will compress over a steel tube.

hey brian.Why do you feel the need to go with an electric fuel pump?:confused:

An electric fuel pump can be mounted on the body of the car, near the gas tank, slighty even with or below the level of the gas tank....Remove the rubber hose, near the gas tank, which would normally be hooked up to the the gas line, leading to the front of the car, and hook this up to the inlet on the fuel pump.....Run a rubber hose to the outlet of the fuel pump to the gas line, leading to the front of the car.

Electric fuel pumps don't like to suck very well, but work fine once they're primed. Thats one reason you see new cars come with pumps in the tank - because the submerged pump is always (unless you hit 'E') primed. Some folks have welded sumps on the bottom of a stock tank and put AN fittings on them as Jim was saying. (BTW: Don't get a flame near a fuel tank).

I personally like the simple approach Jim and Ron are talking about. Do either of you have trouble getting those pumps to prime the first time (or after running empty)? If not, I'll probably do the same thing eventually.

Do either of you have trouble getting those pumps to prime the first time (or after running empty)? If not, I'll probably do the same thing eventually.


I'm running one of Jeg's "Performance" pumps, flowing 105 GPH, which includes the regulator, and never encountered any priming issues!.....However I don't know how the lower flowing pumps would react.

Do either of you have trouble getting those pumps to prime the first time (or after running empty)? If not, I'll probably do the same thing eventually.

Mine will be going in this car this spring, but I don't anticipate a problem.

I did an identical setup on a big Blazer years ago, even ran it out of gas several times, pump always primed immediately. Both setup are / will be EFI, Bosch pump in the Blazer, the camaro will have a Walbro.

I thought as long as you made sure that the pump was below the level of the gas tank and lines you didn't have to worry about priming issues since gravity would do your priming for you.

I thought as long as you made sure that the pump was below the level of the gas tank and lines you didn't have to worry about priming issues since gravity would do your priming for you.

Until the fuel sloshes around and leaves the pickup sucking air... I've seen several guys on LS1Tech with external fuel pumps that said they couldn't drive regularly with less than 1/4 tank or they started eating fuel pumps. EFI electric pumps and some carb electric pumps depend on fuel flow for cooling, and the pump is damaged pretty quickly when run dry.

I'm running one of Jeg's "Performance" pumps, flowing 105 GPH, which includes the regulator, and never encountered any priming issues!.....However I don't know how the lower flowing pumps would react.

My old RX7 has had a Holley red pump in it since '93, dead-headed into cheap non-bypass regulator and 465cfm vacuum secondary Holley. Was running great until it fried the leading igniter module last summer--need to go rig up a pair of HEI modules in it for the current owner next time I get back up to TN.

I have had one for years and never had a prob. I try not to go under a 1/4 tank. Brian

Thanks for the info, Guys. I thought that was about how it had to be done, but just hadnt done it.

George, Just like the immediate starting electric fuel pump provides. Nothing wrong with mechanical, just doesnt give the quick start an electric does. Is there a down side I am not thinking of?

Thanks again for all of the input!

Brian

Thanks for the info, Guys. I thought that was about how it had to be done, but just hadnt done it.

George, Just like the immediate starting electric fuel pump provides. Nothing wrong with mechanical, just doesnt give the quick start an electric does. Is there a down side I am not thinking of?

Thanks again for all of the input!

Brian

Hey Brian..I have to assume you have a carb on your 68,not EFI.Your carb float bowls hold fuel at rest.Plenty sufficient for start up and extended idle time before running dry.The down side to an electric pump is when they fail..they fail.Mechanicals do fail also..but usually give you some early warning signs before leaving you totally stranded.With a carb in use daily..an electric pump vs mechanical will not have any effect on your quick start.

Mounted mine up in the right rear corner of trunk floor , out side trunk near spring shackle. Used stock tank pickup line, did not require regulator. Use a keyed relay in the power line.

I'm with George. If you're carbed and not high horsepower stick with a good mechanical. They are quiet and dependable. I hate electric FP's noise. On wolf it doesn't make a ****, but something for daily use gimme quiet. My 2cents.