: Fixing leaded areas... question
May 16th, 02, 03:32 AM
In the process of stripping the body back down to metal, I noticed an area that has been leaded. It is in the corner of the roof just above the drivers side of the windshield. I think I read somewhere in the forums here that it was something the factory did, which is fine. The problem I have with it is that it's not in good shape anymore because it looks like someone tried to fix the lead because it was cracked or something. (I know lead doesn't usually crack)
It's not smooth anymore and requires repair before the primer goes on. How can I go about smoothing out the lead and/or adding lead to contour it properly? I know I'm going to have to at least melt what's there now and smooth it out, then either use body filler (which will crack) or melt some more lead there. What type of lead can or should I use and how can I apply it? Propane torch? Soldering gun? I can buy the proper material locally if need be.
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May 16th, 02, 03:59 AM
In my opinion 30 year old lead is not stable and releading it is not worth the trouble.Its also common for old lead to crack,bubble,pit ect.I think its common for stress cracks to develop in the windsheild corners.I melt out the old lead with a propane torch.Put wet rags around the seam to stop heat transfer to the roof which can cause warping.Clean the seam spottless with a wire wheel.Mig weld the seam solid(again with the wet rags)Grind it smooth,then fill it with Duraglass or All-metal,then finsh with regular filler.The filler will not crack because the seam is welded solid thus eliminating any flexing.Good Luck.
[This message has been edited by ochrisl (edited 05-16-2002).]
May 16th, 02, 04:13 AM
When you say 'seam', how much of a seam is there and which direction does it run? It looks to me to be pretty wide (does 1/4" to 3/8" sound right?) and it basically runs towards the crease in the roof over the driprail. It may just be a small 'crack' for all I know. I can't tell because of the poor quality of the existing lead. It's not very long though. Maybe an inch or inch and a quarter long starting at the windshield. Is there also one of these leaded areas in the passenger side corner? I couldn't detect any lead on that side. I've already got that side stripped.
May 16th, 02, 04:52 AM
I think any old camaro that had any decent amount of torque cracked in the location. You're talking about BODY TWIST ! !
Hello frame connectors ! ! Unless you're going concours ! ! If you wanted to smooth out the lead you would need the torch and
Some lead sticks like the ones from eastwood
and the wooden padels With the wax stick to smooth it out. It's fairly simple, just use the wetrags as stated above and be careful not to distort the metal.
May 16th, 02, 06:13 AM
I'm definitely doing subframe connectors, and from what the past owners have told me about the car, I'm not surprized it's cracked.
May 16th, 02, 10:32 AM
Be sure to check with your paint supplier about the compatiblity of the paint with the lead if you go that way. You may need to passivate the repair and coat with a special sealer prior to primer.
May 16th, 02, 01:04 PM
Thats why i say its not worth the hassle.The lead you buy today is different from the original lead body solder. I just wouldn't trust a lead repair.Theres acids and other chemicals that can seap up through the paint and cause trouble later.If lead was the best repair material out there it would still be used today.
May 16th, 02, 04:33 PM
Removing the original lead with a propane torch will not distort metal..It doesnt get hot enough..
Use "All-Metal" to replace or reinforce the leaded areas..All-Metal is much stronger than Bondo and Duraglas.
May 17th, 02, 01:30 AM
Great, thanks all. I'll look into All-Metal and if the 'seam' is small enough, maybe I'll just weld it.
May 17th, 02, 11:24 PM
The factory originally used Hewitt 30/70 lead for seam seals. It is still available but you won't like the price. If someone has none of the materials necessary to do a SMALL lead job, it will cost somewhere in the area of $120.00 to by the Ruby Fluid, 2-one pound sticks of Hewitt 30/70, a set of paddles, beeswax, and lead file.
May 18th, 02, 11:03 AM
Yeeeouch! $120 for a tiny little seam. Not gonna happen. Evan with the "friend works at the autobody supplier" discount I get, that's too much for just this small spot. I'll look into All-Metal first.
Thanks Toby! You da man!