I have a McLeod 8630 bellhousing, their adj. pivot ball stud, and the McLeod throwout bearing and correct fork. I am using all of this with the McLeod RST twin disc clutch. What I would like to know is do you still measure 4.75" from the back of the block to the face of the ball stud. Does this measurement work with all combos. It would seem to me that if the pressure plate fingers are longer or shorter, or if the tob is a little different than you may have to modify that measurement.

Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciated
Chris

The 4.750" pivot ball height is only for a flywheel thickness of .950". The flywheel thickness will determine the pivot ball height.

You might be better using the 5-7 degrees forward tilt on the fork to set up this clutch. This is how I would set-up a clutch without the instructions from the manufacture or if I was unsure of the recommended air gap specification.

Check out Classic Chevy 5 Speeds tech tips Clutch Set-up (http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/files/Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips.pdf) page. Your specific questions should be answered in this article. It will explain how to achieve the 5-7 degrees forward tilt in detail for your proper pivot ball height.

You can also call the tech line at McLeod, Red would also answer your questions.

I hope this helps.

Jody, I did use the 5-7* to set up the clutch initially. When doing it that way I had to use the non adj. ball stud. But you know, 5-7* through what points? I have not found anything real specific,and if I did it would probably be tough to verify the angle. So anyway, I got the 5-7 and the adjuster on the lower rod ended up being almost all the way out. When the clutch pedal was depressed the fork was only about 1/16" off the firewall.

I am not able to test drive at this time, so it is difficult to verify proper engagement and disengagement. And I can say for sure I don't want to have to pull the trans for a third time. So on this next reinstall I'd like to get it right.
Thanks
Chris

When the clutch pedal was depressed the fork was only about 1/16" off the firewall.

Check out fig.2, page 4 on CC5S tip page. Did you click on the blue "Clutch Set-up" words on my above post? Page 4 illustrates a great reference for the 5-7 degree fork angle.

If you are only about 1/16" from your firewall, I think it would be safe to say you are NOT at the 5-7 degree angle.

What are your McLeod clutch and pressure plate part numbers?

Do you know the exact measurement of your flywheel?

Place your flywheel on a flat and smooth table with the pressure plate surface side down. Measure through one of the crankshaft mounting bolt holes for the proper flywheel thickness.

Jody, I did see the link you posted. Getting the 5-7 with everything mocked up is a guessing game with only 2 1/2 or so inches sticking out past the bellhousing. I did however do my best to get that. I tried the adj ball stud, and when I did there were only a few threads for the jam nut to catch. So I tried the non-adjustable and got the 5-7*. It was with this setup that the fork was 1/16" off the firewall, with the pedal pressed to the floor. This would leave me no adjustment when it came time for actual road testing.

The clutch I have is a McLeod RST #6913-07, the throwout bearing is#16010, the flywheel is a Hays 30lb billet steel flywheel #10-130.

Chris

For starters, you will need to replace your existing adjustable pivot ball if it is too short. Especially if your adjustable pivot ball is a Mr.Gasket #3855.

Get yourself the McLeod adjustable pivot ball #MCL-16908. I think the overall length is about 2-1/2" and after your pivot ball height is set, you cut off the excess. Get ready, it is about $55.00 through Summit or Jegs!

What kind of power levels do you have for the high cost of this clutch? I saw this clutch is about $700.00? Did Red@McLeod recommend this clutch for you?

Jody, I do have the 16908 pivot ball. The problem is not that it is too short. It is, when adjusted to 5-7*, there is a very small amount of threads on the pivot end of the stud for the jam nut to thread on. Now, if I set the height at 4.75" there is a little more threads for the jam nut to lock on to.

Yes I spoke with Red, and he suggested that clutch. $700 is right. I am running a sb with a flywheel dynoed 552 hp/ 535tq.

Chris

Chris,

Can you do a bird's eye view of your clutch set-up from 12 or 6 o'clock? Are you using a Mcleod or stock Camaro fork?

Sorry for butting in guys, I saw something about a 16010 throw out bearing, isn't this suppose the be the 16018? Same as BCA 1705CC??? Don't have the wrong bearing here do we?

Just ignore me if I am wet here.

Sorry for butting in guys, I saw something about a 16010 throw out bearing, isn't this suppose the be the 16018? Same as BCA 1705CC??? Don't have the wrong bearing here do we?

Just ignore me if I am wet here.

Good point Don..........

I am using the 16010 TOB with my McLeod 12" Pressure Plate 360820.

I do not know what TOB should be used with the RST #6913-07. It seems if Chris is out of threads on his adjustable pivot ball and his fork is 1/16" from hitting the firewall his TOB could be too short. I hope Chris has a picture to share of his setup, it may explain a lot.

Sorry, I was wet here, I checked Mcleods site, the bearing Chris is using is the same as my bca 1705CC or Federal M 614018.. Number I mentioned is wrong.

I have always heard of guys saying be be sure and use the GM fork here. Just wonder if that or wrong motor mount stands is the problem?
Happy 2008!

Jody, birds eye view is going to be difficult now as everything has been disassembled and is out of the car. Right now I have no front cap on the car so I figured I would just pull the whole thing to work on it. In the process of torqueing the trans to bell bolts for only the second time ever, one of the threads just pulled right out. I don't believe it even reached 45#s. No damage to bolts. Threads totally stripped.

So Summit is supposed to have me a new bh Wed, and I guess I will try it again. I do plan on re dialindicating the new bellhousing before assembly.

Don, I am using the GM fork. The motor mount stands are repro small block mounts from Ricks. When the engine was in the first time, when I discovered the pivot ball wasn't quite right, the engine seemed to be in the right spot with plenty of room for the MSD dist.
Thanks
Chris

Have you made any changes to clutch pedal or Z bar rods? I did, when I went to the hiem-joint style adjustables. The are more forgiving too in exchanging pedal throws.

Jody mentioned something of the tob being too short? Looking at Mcleod bearing heights, I see two a little taller. The one you are using now is the shortest @ 1.225 +-, 16100 is 1.340, a tad taller.

Don, I have not made any changes to the pedal or the z-bar.
As far as the TOB goes, If it is shorter wouldn't that help me? If it is shorter, than to get the 5-7* I would have to bring the ball stud closer to the flywheel to achieve the proper angle. In doing this it would also bring me away from the firewall.

A taller TOB would cause me to have to shorten the pivot to get the same angle, and I already do not have enough threads for the jam nut to get more than 2 or so turns to lock the ball stud in place.

All of this assumes that I do have 5-7*. The clutch fork is not exactly flat, and finding a point to use a reference for the angle is a 'that looks about right' for me.

There has to be some way to get a couple of measurements to use (flywheel thickness, heighth of PP fingers off FW ,TOB and the depth of the bellhousing and so on) It would seem simple mathematics would provide the solution to the problem for setting pivot ball depth.

Thanks
Chris

On normal conditions, the McLeod adjustable pivot ball stud usually needs to be shortned about 1" to 1-1/2" with the 5-7 degrees tilt forward of the fork. Hopefully, a picture will tell a thousand words in this case.

What is your flywheel thickness? Do you have your old Clutch and PP to measure its overall height?

OK, If you need pivot ball stud closer to flywheel, did you try the Mcleod that Jody is refering to ? I have always used the Mr Gasket with a Lakewood and place the stud head 4.750" from block/bellhousing mating flats. If you have a saver plate, you have to accomodate that thickness. From looking at the Mcleod ball pivot, it has a longer threaded shank. Won't this work?
My GM fork is not flat or near, I have about a 2-3" bend on it and it is supposed to be the correct one. I understand the HD after market is the wrong one.
I think tob you have, 1.225 +-, is the shortest bearing made. I was thinking that you could use a thicker bearing and make up the differance in the adjustment but sounds like you would be back in the same spot. Need more angle in that fork or longer pivot ball to move everything towards flywheel. Listen to Jody, he deals with this everyday.