View Full Version : Roller cam swap in early model big block.


refspd
Jan 2nd, 08, 04:56 PM
Has anyone installed one of the retrofit roller cams in a big block. I see the Comp Cams XE276 roller retrofit kit on ebay for $869.00. Comes with cam, lifters, springs, timing chain and pushrods. I was looking at some stainless steel roller rockers on ebay. They are only $120.00 for a new set. Probably made in China? Any comments on these? Is it better to buy the kit? The spings I have now are new Lunati springs. Can I reuse these springs and just buy the cam, lifters and pushrods? Not sure why the kit comes with the timing gears and chain, don't you have to use a cam button with it also? Any other parts I would need. I have read that a new aluminum timing chain cover is needed also because the thin metal one isn't stout enough to prevent cam walk when the cam button in used? I have lots of questions, any answers are greatly appreciated.
Rick

zdld17
Jan 2nd, 08, 05:37 PM
If you go this route, make sure you are getting a billet roller with an Everwear gear so you don't have to deal with dist gear wear issues. They can be had. Check into what type of roller lifter they offer.
Use the valve springs recommneded and adhere to the spec'd spring heights and pressures. Think about lightening up the valve spring retainers, light push rods.
You can use the Cloyes two piece cover with the built in button or something like this that will provide enuff roller button support.

What kit were you looking at on Ebay?

refspd
Jan 2nd, 08, 06:01 PM
The kit on ebay in a hydralic roller kit. Part number is K11-4238. $869.00 with free shipping. I don't think it's a billet roller. Do I really need it?
Thanks
Rick

zdld17
Jan 2nd, 08, 06:46 PM
I used the sbc version, one step above this cam. It was a cast roller as you said, "austertempered material" , basically cast. I had it for about 6 months, I was using the stock fuel pump & pushrod. The fuel pump eccentric wore off within 500 miles. I installed an electric pump for remainder of two years. When I pulled his cam, I noticed that the comp roller lifter had worn a paper thin grove into the opening ramp, not enuff to catch a finger nail but you could see it. Alos at the base of the opening ramp, a flake of lobe was missing. The roller was fine. It could have been a defect and it could have been that I was running 20# higher spring pressure than recommended ( recommended 140#, I was running 160 closed). It could have been a piece of metal that got in the path of the lobe and roller, not sure. I learned my lesson. I went to one of Udharolds recommended cams in billet material with the iron dist gear.
So, it meant that I had to spend another 6-700$ to change all this out. You could get by with the cast roller , lots of people do. I have had billet rollers before but I thought I was out of the woods with no problems going back to soft roller cams, guess I was wrong.

Its your call. You may install this and never experiance any problems.

refspd
Jan 2nd, 08, 07:31 PM
I've already had one problem with a wiped lobe on an XE274 hydraulic flat tappet. Makes me wonder if I should even go with Comp Cams?? Thanks a bunch for for info and experience Don.
Rick