View Full Version : M&T Manufacturing?


Dynawolf
Jan 3rd, 08, 04:10 PM
Has anyone done business with M&T. They sell a complete convertible top restoration kit. I am considering trying this myself (crazy I know...but I did the transmission switch)

Anyone hear of this RI based firm?

Hammered
Jan 7th, 08, 05:38 PM
Do they have a web address?

Dynawolf
Jan 8th, 08, 12:50 PM
http://www.convertibletopguys.com/

Hammered
Jan 10th, 08, 04:08 PM
That's just the top, pads, window and cables. I would do a search on installing a top yourself. From what I've read, it can be done but it takes two people to get it right.

8ballracing
Jan 11th, 08, 07:37 AM
Here is some advice from a first timer.........

Yes, it can be done. Very few tools needed but you need a warm shop or a sunny day which is better. The Fisher body manual is very helpful as to specs and procedure. I also had a book with a section on convertible tops that was very helpful.

The wood spacer bars to set rear bow location are 14.5 inches. Tape them in place this makes them easy to be removed after your done.

Before you start taking the old top off take pictures and look over everything putting top up and down checking for binding and take notes. When the old top is off make sure frame is aligned properly especially if you take the frame apart for painting, tack strip replace etc. Mark locations of adjoining parts with a scribe do this after you align......

Tack strips need to be in good condition. If in doubt "replace" they can be glued in place instead of the staples the factory used. Makes the whole job way easier.

Spend extra time getting the rear curtain right before you put top fabric on very important to get this right. You will have to take it apart at the rear tack after you have it right to install the top fabric so it is kind of like doing it twice. You will spend most of you time in the back seat. lol

Also, the second bow needs to be vertical not leaning foward or aft when you do your final tacking of the front header. Some top fabrics have a sleeve to slid this bow in and you will have to take it apart from the rest of the frame to get it in the sleeve.

Pay attention to the tacking of the rear bow keep the tacks inline (straight across) as the rear welt needs to cover them and it is not that wide. The two stainless darts that cover the ends of the rear welt need to be screwed on use an awl to perice them do not try to drive them in by hand you could ruin your top! Use the center line to measure down the welt so they are equal also I would measure the location of the ones on the top now if you are reusing the tack strip in the rear bow you will want to have a new location for the screws 1/2 +/- so they will not come loose.

Leave the top up about an inch or so above windshield header when you attach front of top and this will help make it tight. Little wedge shaped blocks make this easier.

Front welt needs to be sewed on a comercial machine I got mine done by a little old lady in a sewing shop she only asked for $5.00. I gave here a Jackson and thanked her for the nice job.

Tacking......you should only put in what you need while your fitting if you need to make an adjustment you may need to remove one or two. The rear curtain tacks are not seen and neatness in not a priority but keep some uniform spacing so when you tack the top fabric you have a place for those tacks to go.

The job is not that hard but will try your paitents or sure......Chalk for marking the fabric is a must black board chalk will work.....

I say four days if you are going to restore the frame. Two days for the top itself for your first time. pads cables etc are easy. the rear tack strip is the hardest and you may need larger bolts/screws as they strip out easy important as they pull the rear curtain tight.

The well liner is actually put in upside down so you see the vinyl thru the rear curtain. I did mine wrong but I am okay with it.

Okay no more coffee for me....

Good luck

8Ball