Sorry, started this thread in wrong spot, newbee. I have a big block 69 camaro with a doug nash five speed, i have a mccleod soft lock clutch set up in it. I cant get it to not slip. When i first put it in it was good off the line and slipped just cruisin, (which they said is typical??) know with about 100 miles or so slips like crazy.

It sounds like you have a throwout bearing that is too long, so it won't allow the clutch to fully disengauge. Or it could be that you have an incorrect length or bent clutch fork, that would cause the clutch fork to run out of room and hit the bellhousing before the clutch is fully disengauged.

I run a slipper type clutch in mine too. There's not many here.
Still sorting mine out also. From what I've heard, if you let it slip to much when it's new it will glaze and need to be pulled apart, reworked:sad:.

You will get your best info on this type of clutch from guys that run them.
Go here and post the question in the trany sec. again.http://www.umtrnorth.com/forums/default.asp

---Bill.

With my old sintered iron clutch disc from drag car we would glass bead the disc's to remove the glaze , we also did the pressure plate and flywheel , made them as good as new .
Mark.

we would glass bead the disc's to remove the glaze , we also did the pressure plate and flywheel , made them as good as new .Mark.
I agree Mark, heard thats the way to deglaze a sintered iron disc.

JD, What needs to by addressed here. Why is the clutch smoked already, and how not to glaze it again.
I would give Rob Youngblood a call (208) 880-6214
(@ http://www.advancedclutches.com/ )
He can take your clutch clean it up and then set it up right. If you follow his instructions you won't have a problem again.

and slipped just cruisin, (which they said is typical??)

No, if properly adjusted for the street, it won't slip. But understand, that is a different base pressure than you would run at the track. At lower RPM street cruisin the counter weights do not apply much pressure, so unless you have cranked up the base pressure it will slip and that will kill it.
At the track (you do drag race this car ?) I run much less base pressure so that it can slip leaving at 6K+ rpm.

---Bill. PS I use one of Robs 7", 2 disc, sintered iron, adjustable clutch.

Is there enough slack in the linkage? If there's not enough, the clutch is not fully disengaged and will slip. Happened to me for a while with my CF DF clutch - slipped bad cause there wasnt any freeplay in the system, I adjusted it and shes's great with my 525HP BB and ET Streets,

guys thanks for all the info, i will try anything at this piont. already checked linkage and throw out bearing. clutch worked ok at first, I need something that works, I know there is plenty of faster cars with sticks than mine. If this clutch is adjusted correctly should it hold up with my car? For the price it better. :( Again thanks for all the great info.

Keep us posted steve.

guys thanks for all the info, i will try anything at this piont. already checked linkage and throw out bearing. clutch worked ok at first, I need something that works, I know there is plenty of faster cars with sticks than mine. If this clutch is adjusted correctly should it hold up with my car? For the price it better. :( Again thanks for all the great info.

as sc68z28 posted, proper setup of static pressure is critical for street operation of that "soft-lock" clutch. you should have the maximum #of turns into the pressure plate when you run the car on the street, and only drop it when making passes at the track.
de-glaze it first, and you should be ok