View Full Version : Choke Mounting Screw Question


markr
Jan 20th, 08, 07:23 AM
Hi All,
I recently bought a repop Holley divorced choke kit and the screw that came with it doesn't fit my Winters intake. I've figured out that the Winters is looking for a 10-24 screw proabably 1/2"-3/4". My question is what finish screw is correct ? and was it philips or slotted head ?


If anybody has a pic of this detail that would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in Advance.
Mark

markr
Jan 21st, 08, 01:57 PM
Darn.......41 reads and nobody has the answer ?

Somebody has an original setup out there :yes:

Fred Ficarra
Jan 21st, 08, 02:20 PM
Sorry! I was out of town last weekend. And was late getting back because we were having a 'Beat the Packers' party! Joy!!!
Oops. Screw. SLOTTED. They were just an annoying, easy to lose, little pan head. Less than a half inch long.

markr
Jan 21st, 08, 04:08 PM
Thanks very much Fred.
I knew somebody would have the answer. :thumbsup:

Everett#2390
Jan 22nd, 08, 04:37 AM
Zinc plated. If using stainless steel screw, coat threads with antiseize.

markr
Jan 22nd, 08, 08:53 AM
Zinc plated. If using stainless steel screw, coat threads with antiseize.

Thanks Everett ! :thumbsup:

I found stainless slotted 10-24 screws but knew the originals weren't stainless.
They also wouldn't have been the combo head (philips/slotted) that you typically find in home improvement stores these days.

I'll try to find a zinc plated panhead slotted 10-24. And 1/2" length won't fit my 3972116 (Service Replacment LT-1) intake either. The screw bottoms out about 1/8" short. Guess I'll find a 1/4" :yes:

Thanks Again Everybody !

Fred Ficarra
Jan 22nd, 08, 02:59 PM
Thanks Everett ! :thumbsup:

I found stainless slotted 10-24 screws but knew the originals weren't stainless.
They also wouldn't have been the combo head (philips/slotted) that you typically find in home improvement stores these days.

I'll try to find a zinc plated panhead slotted 10-24. And 1/2" length won't fit my 3972116 (Service Replacment LT-1) intake either. The screw bottoms out about 1/8" short. Guess I'll find a 1/4" :yes:

Thanks Again Everybody !
It's easier to just cut it shorter. But first put a nut on the shaft and run it all the way up to the bottom of the head. Then after the cut, dress it with a small bench grinder and unscrew the nut. That nut will clean-up the threads so that it'll fit well into the manifold.

markr
Jan 22nd, 08, 04:15 PM
It's easier to just cut it shorter. But first put a nut on the shaft and run it all the way up to the bottom of the head. Then after the cut, dress it with a small bench grinder and unscrew the nut. That nut will clean-up the threads so that it'll fit well into the manifold.

Yeah, I did that but was leary of putting any residual ragged threads into aluminum. Especially on an original Winters intake.

Unreal
Jan 24th, 08, 11:31 AM
then with the nut on, hit it with the grinder or a file. Then remove the nut. Aluminum is not as hard as steel, but it ain't butter, either.

JohnZ
Jan 25th, 08, 05:00 PM
Oops. Screw. SLOTTED. They were just an annoying, easy to lose, little pan head. Less than a half inch long.

Not slotted - they were phillips head. :thumbsup:

Fred Ficarra
Jan 26th, 08, 02:57 PM
Not slotted - they were phillips head. :thumbsup:
Well now you did it John!:yes: I just dug through all my old stuff to find my choke stove. Nothing. It must be at my mothers house. It'll have to wait. I sure remember a slotted screw though. But hey! last time I touched it was 1974.:)
But WHAT a memory-trip I just had. After digging past my original battery cables and carb return spring and finding my original key and the key-code tab, I got dizzy and fell down.;) Mom's house might have to wait. It's cold in her basement.