I've been reading the othere posts similar to this but thought I better start a fresh one pertianing to a couple questions so I don't divert someone elses post. I just bought the 276550 gear box from checker which cost me $170 incl tax and $25 penalty for no core return. I purchased the rag-joint and inserts from Lee (rea, nice fella who spent about 20 minutes talking to me on the phone). I've also decided to get a new Pitman arm for the heck of it too (the part #Moog6582 Brian Lewis listed - thanks Brian!) Anyway - here's my questions:

1. Should I remove the float-back valve from the Cardone Reman unit and if so, how do I know what it looks like/where is it?

2. I currently have some Heddman headers that are approx. 1/16th of an inch from hitting the side of the stock power steering box. Do you think the new box will also clear? I noticed the new box has two ridges on this side that the stock box doesn't which could possibly be the difference in hitting or not.

3. If the new box doesn't fit should I try and pry my header tube for a little more clearance or take to a header shop and have them cut and custom fit a piece that allows for more clearance on that tube?

4. What do I need to remove a pitman arm? Is there a special puller or is there a method that anyone has found to work well?

5. Is there a way to make sure you got the right internals in your Cardone Reman box? I've heard about a couple that didn't. I assume if you turn a certain amount of times it can be verified but not sure what that is?

I'm going to tackle the project this weekend and looking forward to feelin the effects of this upgrade. My stock box is functioning as designed which leaves a lot to be desired cause sometimes it feels like I'm trying to control a boat in choppy water.

Thanks,

Bill

2. I currently have some Heddman headers that are approx. 1/16th of an inch from hitting the side of the stock power steering box. Do you think the new box will also clear? I noticed the new box has two ridges on this side that the stock box doesn't which could possibly be the difference in hitting or not.

3. If the new box doesn't fit should I try and pry my header tube for a little more clearance or take to a header shop and have them cut and custom fit a piece that allows for more clearance on that tube?

4. What do I need to remove a pitman arm? Is there a special puller or is there a method that anyone has found to work well?

I can kinda help with a few of your questions:

2. I currently have some Heddman headers that are approx. 1/16th of an inch from hitting the side of the stock power steering box. Do you think the new box will also clear? I noticed the new box has two ridges on this side that the stock box doesn't which could possibly be the difference in hitting or not.

You should have at least 1/8" min clearance from box to headers. I believe the Cardone box might be 3/8" wider, thus creating the need to bend a tube.

3. If the new box doesn't fit should I try and pry my header tube for a little more clearance or take to a header shop and have them cut and custom fit a piece that allows for more clearance on that tube?

It depends on what you want to do, but many here would just beat the tube back using various methods. I used a crowbar and a big hammer and just dented it in enough to get 1/8" clearance. I have ceramic headers, but I didn't really care, as I already have some marks...and another tube bent for a plug.

4. What do I need to remove a pitman arm? Is there a special puller or is there a method that anyone has found to work well?

You might be lucky enough to just take the nut off and pull it off. You might need to tap it down with a hammer. I can't recall, but I think you could use a pickle fork to help get it off too. If you find that you need a special tool for it, AZ, Advance, etc., rent them for free (refundable deposit).

You can grind the ridges on the side of the box and gain clearance. Once the box is installed you cannot see the area or evidence of the grinding...

You can also raise the driver's side of the motor and retighten the motor mount--that provides clearance too. Or you can just dimple the header--that works even better...

The difference will be amazing between the old boat steering and new steering.

I got lucky and mine came off when I gave the center link a wack.

Thanks guys for all the helpful info. I think I will grind those ridges off. Did you notice the same clearance as with the original box once they were ground off?

I'm also thinkin 'bout warming up the engine and trying to pry/pound that tube over a little while the headers are hot to gain a little more clearance.

Did you guys leave that float-back valve in the new box or did you remove it? Any problems associated with leaving it in?

Thanks again!!

Usually the reason some get the wrong box, is that they ask for just a third gen. box. You want an IROC box. (The one with special steering)

I didn't experience any fitment issues when I installed my 3rd gen box. It fit perfectly. Like it was meant to be there. I have found that if you ask for the box by part number instead of application, then you are more inclined to get the correct box. There is still a problem with that though. People in the past may have done the same swap, but didn't tell the guy at the store so they rebuild it as a Iroc box, when in fact it's just a 1st gen box. It may be a quick ratio box, but it's the road feel/feedback that also makes it worth the swap. People need to make sure they tell the employee that the box is different then what's supposed to be there so they can rebuild it appropriately.

I didn't experience any fitment issues when I installed my 3rd gen box. It fit perfectly.

Everyone's car is different, even if it's the same year and same engine. Of course, different headers will make a difference. Some folks report enough room to slide a small cat between the headers and box :), and a lot of us have to bend a tube. Nobody has confirmed what I said earlier, but I'm pretty darn sure the 3rd gen box is 3/8" wider than a 69' PS box. With that, I'd say you should probably look at the space you've got before the swap, and then measure the width of the old and new to know what you'll be dealing with.

In my case, the new box set right up against a tube (maybe enough to slide a piece of paper between). If I had realized this before I installed the new box I would have ground the outer top edge of the box a bit beforehand. I was just too lazy to pull it back off and do it, so I bent a tube.

Did you guys leave that float-back valve in the new box or did you remove it? Any problems associated with leaving it in?


I'm doing this swap right now, I went ahead a pulled the check valve out of the pressure port, everything I read said it was a good idea and I found no negatives posted anywhere. We'll see in a few weeks how it worked out.

I'm doing this swap right now, I went ahead a pulled the check valve out of the pressure port, everything I read said it was a good idea and I found no negatives posted anywhere. We'll see in a few weeks how it worked out.


Cool - then I may as well get rid of the check valve. Mr. Lee said something about it could cause pump to overheat if you leave it in but not sure if that's in an extreme scenario or what.

I did order my box from Checker via the part # that Brian supplied in his write-up so hopefully will not be a problem with getting the wrong one.

I'm doing this swap right now, I went ahead a pulled the check valve out of the pressure port, everything I read said it was a good idea and I found no negatives posted anywhere. We'll see in a few weeks how it worked out.


Also - could you share with us how you removed that doohickly?

Thanks,

Yes please share that info. I noticed on my box that I can see a spring down in the pressure port. I am sure Dave will chime in over this. I have read his post over this swap and printed it out as well.

Also - could you share with us how you removed that doohickly?

Thanks,
It wasn't pretty, I used a good scribe and basically pryed it out. I've since read that a 1/4" bolt can be threaded into the check valve and then use channel locks to pull it. It's in there pretty tight but will come out (albeit a piece at a time...).

It wasn't pretty, I used a good scribe and basically pryed it out. I've since read that a 1/4" bolt can be threaded into the check valve and then use channel locks to pull it. It's in there pretty tight but will come out (albeit a piece at a time...).

Interesting - I'm thinking of trying that 1/4" bolt method. What about putting a nut on that bolt and then thread it into the check valve and tightening that nut against the gear box while holding the bolt with a separate wrench. I'm thinkin that could work similar to a pulley remover type of tool and possibly pull it straight out. I'm gonna go try it now....

While I got it out for the most part. Threading the bolt didn't work for me (maybe if it were more tapered at the end it would have worked. Just couldn't get it to grab so worked at it with a little screwdriver and popped the top off which the released the spring and disc and he top section of the top side broke away. What this valve consists of is basically a cylinder connected to cap and spring retainer on top and bottom with three little metal prongs that can break away failry easily. In beteween is the spring and disc. So what remains is the cylinder portion that won't come out but the check valve is clear and I don't think this cylinder is worth the trouble and potential to be schredded up into little pieces trying to remove and it's not going anywhere. It's slightly pressed into this orrifice and is a PITA like the other guy said. I think I'll just leave the rest and call it good cause can't see how it would interfere and now the path into the gear box is 99% clear. I have the feeling that everybody has a little different experience with trying to get this out and that was mine.