I've searched and can't seem to find if the way I am considering routing my rear disk brake lines can/can't be done.

Instead of running a flex line from the body to a T bracket attached to the rear end and then running a separate line to the end of each axle and attaching to a flex line to the caliper, this is what I want to do:

From a 'T' located at the spot where the rear line usually stops, branch off and run a separate line across the body, then down the rear frame rail a bit, directly above the axle. Then, attach the mounting tab there on the rear frame rail for the flex line and run the flex line to the caliper.

I have a Ford 9" now with a 4-link and running the lines down the 9" and around the 4-link brackets I think is going to be time consuming and not sure how good it will look. Plus, I have no way to attach the line to the axle tubes. Running the lines along the body from a 'T' requires just one bend to run down the frame rail. Plus, it eliminates having another flex line going to the rear end. This is basically how the front system works with the flex line/hard line connection done at the frame.

I will need to get longer flex lines for this to work. There must be something I'm missing as from what I can tell, everyone routes their lines the standard way. Will this work ?

-Kevin

My opinion,I would put the tee on the housing and one braided hose up to the frame with a tab for a 4-an by 3/8 fm flare aeroquip fitting. Run a hard line to each caliper with a braided hose to each.Put a little twist in the hose so you can drop the rear to change the tires which I am assuming are large enough to have to drop the rear. This is what I did and think it looks all right.

What you are planning will work just fine. I'd put the tee right at the front of the drivers side frame rail, then shoot straight across the car. Make sure you get the lines up in the well, not down on the floor. Make sure you have enough flex line to handle the suspension travel, and that it won't go anywhere it shouldn't when the suspension is fully compressed. Use mounting tabs and hose ends similar to what is used in the front to keep the hard line from flexing.

Up front, the flex lines are pretty well protected from a tire tread coming apart since the frame rail is right behind the caliper at ride height. I think you're going to have to use a lot flex line on each side to avoid the tire in the rear, and run it right past the flapping tread of a blown out tire. And if you're running tailpipes, you've got those to worry about keeping away from while the suspension is moving.

I'm running stock lines with my 9inch. I re-bent new repro stainless hard lines from the calipers to a generic T from NAPA, and made a simple bracket for the T. Re-bending the lines didn't turn out that great... I really need to bend the lines from scratch. I also haven't figured out anything to use to clip the lines to the axle tubes.

http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3356.jpg

http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3358.jpg

JimM, that is a really good idea of putting the 'T' right on the drivers side, as that way I'm not doubling back as I would be if I put the branch 'T' more in the middle of the car. My duh.

Rodder, I see what you mean by a blown tire; I did not think of that. I will have to take that into consideration on routing. I too purchased prebent lines and the big advantage to me was the main run for the rear brake line worked out real well. I don't think I could have created that myself. The other prebent lines for the axle tubes are a mess and I don't see any way of making them work. At least I can reuse the spiral springs and ends !

I'll post pics when I decide what to do.

-Kevin

JimM, that is a really good idea of putting the 'T' right on the drivers side, as that way I'm not doubling back as I would be if I put the branch 'T' more in the middle of the car. My duh.

Rodder, I see what you mean by a blown tire; I did not think of that. I will have to take that into consideration on routing. I too purchased prebent lines and the big advantage to me was the main run for the rear brake line worked out real well. I don't think I could have created that myself. The other prebent lines for the axle tubes are a mess and I don't see any way of making them work. At least I can reuse the spiral springs and ends !

I'll post pics when I decide what to do.


Bending stainless lines isn't that hard once you get the hang of it and have a decent bender (the two handle ones). The hard part is flaring stainless. I think I may redo mine with compression fittings at the calipers--I trust Swagelok compression fittings more than I do flares, and they're rated for a lot more pressure than the soft lines is (there aren't the old brass compression fittings from Napa). It's been a long time since I've bent lines from scratch, I think I can probably get something looking decent by the 3rd try :).

Up front, the flex lines are pretty well protected from a tire tread coming apart since the frame rail is right behind the caliper at ride height. I think you're going to have to use a lot flex line on each side to avoid the tire in the rear, and run it right past the flapping tread of a blown out tire. And if you're running tailpipes, you've got those to worry about keeping away from while the suspension is moving.

I'm running stock lines with my 9inch. I re-bent new repro stainless hard lines from the calipers to a generic T from NAPA, and made a simple bracket for the T. Re-bending the lines didn't turn out that great... I really need to bend the lines from scratch. I also haven't figured out anything to use to clip the lines to the axle tubes.

http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3356.jpg

http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3358.jpg

I figured out how to clip it to the axle. I'll send pictures tonight. Get some JB Weld and 2 small pieces of 1/16 steel about 3/4" x 2 1/4".

JB Weld is strong, but not that strong, -especially on two smooth surfaces.

You'd be best drilling a 3/16" - 1/4" hole in the 3/4" x 2 1/4" tab and spot welding it in place.
The vibration from the axle (unsuspended part of the car) to the brake line will be a bit more than the JB can hang on to in my opinion.

This is my 9" and the Ford OE tabs. I added a couple of extra ones.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3845/9inchbrakelinene4.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=9inchbrakelinene4.jpg)

I also used the 12 bolt bracket for the T-fitting and tapped into the housing to mount it. GM head-bolt sealer prevents any leaks..

I think JB weld is plenty strong just to hold a small bracket with no tension. A dab of JB weld and a small piece of metal. Once dried put the line in and just tap it down to hold it. Some people don't have welders. I do, but I'm a a** and powder coated it before I did the hold downs.:sad:

can you guys tell me what the spiral springs are for and what size brake line you are using? I'll be doing this real soon. thanks.

can you guys tell me what the spiral springs are for and what size brake line you are using? I'll be doing this real soon. thanks.


They are stock lines. I guess they came that way from the factory.

As for as I know, the spiral wrap is used to protect the line from rubbing on another component. For example, the rear line crosses over the rear frame rail where the leaf springs bolt up and there is a bolt near there, and the spring wrap would keep the line off the bolt head. At least, that is what I think they are for.

As for the line sizes, what I have is a 3/16" line for the front brakes, and a 1/4" line to the rear. I think you can run either a 1/4 or 3/16 to the rear if you are using disk brakes. I have disks on all four wheels. At the rear 'T', I plan to branch off using 3/16.

I also have an adjustable proportional valve under the master cylinder for the rear brakes, and just a 'T' fitting planned for the front brakes also under the master cylinder. I am not using a distribution block.

-Kevin

I agree that the lines should not drop down near the tire if the car is to be driven. There is a reason why every OEM routes lines along the axle.

I too would look at something more substantial than an adhesive to hold the clip in place. A hose clamp can be used to hold a bracket, and street rod suppliers have simple to use clamps as well.

The spiral spring is generally called "Gravel Guard" (or "Armorguard" through Classic Tube) and available through most Camaro parts suppliers and specialized brake suppliers.
It also prevents crushing.. It's really very strong and all are stainless steel that I am aware of.
It's used on the fuel line too. ;)

I agree that the lines should not drop down near the tire if the car is to be driven. There is a reason why every OEM routes lines along the axle.

I too would look at something more substantial than an adhesive to hold the clip in place. A hose clamp can be used to hold a bracket, and street rod suppliers have simple to use clamps as well.

With these specs....

Tensile Strength: 3960 psi
Adhesion: 1800 psi
Flex Strength: 7320 psi
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 psi
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F

I don't think it will fall off. For people who don't have a welder I think it's fine. We'll see I guess.

Update.... OK you guys were right... I will not hide it. I installed the rear around a hour ago and both JB welds fell right off. LOL,LOL. Took out the welder, put a couple of spot welds and all is good. DO NOT USE JB WELD TO DO THIS...DUH...

After all of the feedback, I decided to route my lines the standard way: on the rear end and axle tubes. I got one side completed more or less and mocked up the way it will look. I temporarily put some spring shielding on to see what it looks like and still need to do the final flare on the caliper end.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/axle/axle3.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/axle/axle2.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/axle/axle1.jpg

What I did was drill a hole into one of my link brackets and tapped it and bolted the flex hose tab to it. I also put a fuel line clip around the line and bolted it down with one of the housing bolts on the rear end.

After doing all this, I almost started over and rebent a new line that would go down the top of the rear housing which would require fewer bends, but I would then have to weld a line clip to the housing or axle tube for that to work (or leave the line loose). Now that I've gotten one side done, I think I like it this way and will probably do the other side the same way.

-Kevin