Spent some time checking pushrod length today.
I check an exhaust lobe, with a head gasket and the bolts just snugged.

Came up with 7.1"

Combo is voodoo 60112 HR, standard base circle, with morel retro hydraulic rollers, comp pro magnum 1.52 rockers, and afr 195 eliminator heads.

Here's the best pic I could get of the valvestem. The 2 slightly darker lines are the top and bottom of the pattern. Left side is toward the pushrod

http://home.comcast.net/~Jimragtop2/2008engine/valve.jpg

Jim, I think you are close to where you need to be but if you used a black markalot pen and let the roller make its pattern, we could view it better. Looks like you used antisieze?

good eye, Don, yes it's antisieze. I tried a sharpie marker, but did not get a pattern in it. Also tried thread sealer, but it's too thick. Maybe if I painted with a sharpie and put antisieze on top of that it would be easier to see?

I'm thinking right now that the plungers in my lifters are compressing even with the light valve springs, and I'm not getting full lift. I'm gonna redo p/v and pushrod length tests after I get the pump, pickup, and pan on, put in some oil, and prelube the motor.

good eye, Don, yes it's antisieze. I tried a sharpie marker, but did not get a pattern in it. Also tried thread sealer, but it's too thick. Maybe if I painted with a sharpie and put antisieze on top of that it would be easier to see?

I'm thinking right now that the plungers in my lifters are compressing even with the light valve springs, and I'm not getting full lift. I'm gonna redo p/v and pushrod length tests after I get the pump, pickup, and pan on, put in some oil, and prelube the motor.\

Guess sharpie is about the same but dries quicker. Might try that once you get you lifter pumped up. I did my checking with a light spring so I did not have that bleed issue.

I am dealing now with a new viton blue main seal. Its new, sealed on ends and clocked. When I first start a cold motor, so 30°, I am getting a few drips, but stops when warmed up. I hope I dont have to deal with pulling this pan as it will be a chore with the TKO in place.

Jim, two other ideas. First, an old solid lifter works. Second, make a solid lifter out of an old hydraulic. I've never tried it but read of the idea here. It had something to do with opening the lifter and inserting a rod or screw cut to size. I'm sure someone will explain that trick better than me.

Jim that looks pretty good to me. I can see the lines just fine with the antisieze (never thought of using that before)

Which side of your picture is toward the outside of the motor and which is toward the inside?

PS. Jim -- make sure you get all that lint from those red cotton shop towels out of there ;)

I like old blue jean material because it doesn't leave much lint. Or you can get fancy and buy lint-free wipes.

The left side is toward the pushrod.

I posted the same thing on Team Chevelle, and got great replies from Mike Lewis and Ken Kirkwood.
If I lengthen the pushrod about 2 tenths, I can get a REALLY narrow pattern, but it will be out from center on the valvestem. According to Mike and Ken, narrow is what I want.

If you have a pushrod checker like mine it has enough adjustment to do just omit the spring in the hydraulic lifter. Mike the lifter cup depth with and without the spring, and add it back in.

So I went thru this today after priming the oil system, that stiffended up the lifters considerably.
Ended up at 7 1/4" exactly. Got a real nice patern. Sweeps out til midlift, then back in. At max lift, roller is at the same point as with valve closed. Pattern is a lil past center on the valve but is extremely narrow.
http://home.comcast.net/~Jimragtop2/2008engine/valve1.jpg