guys,

what is a realistic time frame on installing the (hotchkis tvs system)? from all you guys experience; i will just add an additional 1-2 hours!!:thumbsup:

also, changing from drums to disc! what time frame does this install take as well?

thanks again,
Brian

We sell and install a lot of Hotchkis TVS kits and do plenty of brake installs. We charge 12 hours for a TVS install and depending on the brake setup, about 6 to 8 hours.

We sell and install a lot of Hotchkis TVS kits and do plenty of brake installs. We charge 12 hours for a TVS install and depending on the brake setup, about 6 to 8 hours.


wow!! so I'm looking at 2-3 days easy it sounds for both installs

thanks for the info
Brian

With good directions, the right tools, and some experience/mechanical aptitude, figure 12 to 16 hours to do the removal and installation on the suspension and install front disc brakes. Because you have to take the spindles loose to get to the front springs anyway, the additional labor to swap spindles (or cut the upper boss down on the drum spindles to allow use with discs) isn't too bad.

Things that can add to the time are:

- the condition of the rear shackle bolts (it is not uncommon to have to cut them), and depending on the length and orientation of the bolts, you may need to drop the fuel tank. Of course if the rear spring bushings in the frame are stuck, you may need to burn them out and you'd want the tank out then anyway.

- the condition of the front leaf spring mount bolts; it is not uncommon to have the J-nuts on the backside break, requiring you to cut the bolt heads off and fish the rest of the bolt/j-nut out of the back side of the frame rail.

- replacing front upper and lower control arm bushings and balljoints; not a big deal again, but if you have it that far apart and they are worn, now is the time. Possibly inner and out tie rod ends too, if they need it.

- type of disc brake conversion kit you get; if they use a 69 and up style single piston caliper (and most do), make sure you ask whether the caliper hoses will work with 68 drum brackets and hardlines. It is not uncommon for the hoses and brackets meeting the hardlines to be an issue because of incompatible fittings or lengths.

These together are a weekend or two project, but as you see they can trigger other "while I have this apart, I might as well" related projects (like bushings, balljoints, etc.

The sound you hear would be the snowball, rolling down hill and picking up size and speed... :)

wow!! so I'm looking at 2-3 days easy it sounds for both installs

Yes, at least 2-3 days. To add to what Eric said, I started my front suspension changes (anti-sway, drop springs, SPC tubular UCAs, upper/lower ball joints, and rotors & bearings) on a Friday night...and finished at about 1am Sat night. I'd guess it took me (1st time doing it) approx 12+ hrs for just the front. I also had great instructions/procedures from a fellow member here. If it hadn't been my first time doing all this, I could have shaved a few hours off.

For the rear (just changing out leaf springs, but no bar) it took me another entire afternoon. I had to use a hacksaw to get the rear bushings out...and then, clean out the hole and lube it for the new ones. I also had to drop my tank to do this. Then...the front pockets weren't fun trying to get lined back up, as they wanted to twist/distort while trying to secure them. I was lucky in that, the J-nuts didn't strip and weren't rusted and stuck. It seems to be fairly common for this to happen, and it might mean cutting off or grinding the bolt heads. If your car has the original leafs...God be with you :). It was also a biatch getting the new rear bushings in...and I had to use some wood clamps to press them in.

Most would probably tell you that the front is the hardest part. But even though the front is more complex in nature, I found the rear leafs to be the biggest PITA...considering how simple it should be. But that's just me.

Good luck, take your time, and be careful.

Took me 6 months ,to do TVS and Brakes ,but any more I am too old to work fast ,nothing happen's fast anymore,I only work on it when I am in the mood ,kinda like with one other thing :D:sad: ,not that important anymore:o..Happy Motoring:)

does anyone want to volunteer to do this for me? only kidding....sounds like it could be hell though!!!

at least i know what to expect before i dive in

thank you,
Brian

Morning Brian ,Just take your time ,lay everything out and plan accordingly, its all suppost to be fun ,thats why I only work on her when I am in the mood anymore, to many times in the past when Drag racing ,I would be thrashing during the week to fix her for the weekend ,after 15 yrs of that ,I want this to be fun,so I take my time ....Have fun and Happy Motoring:)

Keep in mind my time quotes are us doing it at the shop, on the lift, knowing we ba need the torch, and having done many before.

i would at least double Frank's qoute unless youve done it b4 and have correct tools ready.....i spent at least that much time researching on TC. b4 i got started....but was fun to d0...good luck

Most would probably tell you that the front is the hardest part. But even though the front is more complex in nature, I found the rear leafs to be the biggest PITA...considering how simple it should be. But that's just me.

Good luck, take your time, and be careful.

I SECOND that! I had to cut EVERY bolt in the rear suspension....my back STILL hurts from the odd positions I needed to contort to to cut some of the bolts with a die grinder without burning myself up or throwing sparks on painted sheet metal (warning dont DO that.....It WILL not polish out!)

The bigest PITA was the rear shackles. Even with the tank out...getting something in there to cut at the correct angle was just drama! If you have a torch you may be way better off than me....I almost bought one that day!

Just do it yourself!!!! Then you have the knowledge how everything works and fits together, and you can say you did everything yourself. Just my .2 cents