Just about to fire up the engine with the new cam. Igot some rotella t about a year and a half ago, how do I know if its the "good" rotella with the zink and ash? And one other thing, whats the good tricks to get sticky retainers and keepers separated?

If it is the older Rotella T "S" formulation, then it has @1400ppm of ZDDP v.s. the later "CJ-4" classification with @1200ppm.
Either will suffice as a good substitute for the lower 'ppm' levels of most "car' forulations.
I would also add a can of GM/Delco E.O.S. for break-in :thumbsup:

I second the E.O.S additive ( for extra insurance!)

I've read a lot of tests online that suggest that the newer Rotella (with the 'rainbow' label) may have less than 1000 ppm of ZDDP... the older stuff had a blue label...

A long read (and it's not chevy specific) but well worth it:

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z13

I'm going to Run Rotella 15-40 with ZDDPlus- a zinc additive, in my big block...
ZDDPlus is more concentrated than EOS and is not just a break-in lube, but for break-in, I'd go with the above opinions for sure, IMHO !!

If you go to the http://www.cen-pe-co.com/ they have a deisel oil for the older engines that has 1582 ppm of zinc as I know a lot of shops stocking this oil and the 20/50 has over 2000 ppm of zinc.

If it is the older Rotella T "S" formulation, then it has @1400ppm of ZDDP v.s. the later "CJ-4" classification with @1200ppm.
Either will suffice as a good substitute for the lower 'ppm' levels of most "car' forulations.
I would also add a can of GM/Delco E.O.S. for break-in :thumbsup:
I hope you mean CI-4 @1200 ppm. That is what I am using now.;)

I hope you mean CI-4 @1200 ppm. That is what I am using now.;)

"I" - 'J' whats the difference :D
Yeah, stupid fingers hit the wrong key again ;)

If you go to the http://www.cen-pe-co.com/ they have a deisel oil for the older engines that has 1582 ppm of zinc ...
Or - just check out most BMW/Harley motorcycle spec oils - reasonably priced in most cases and available at lots of stores.
ZDDP concentrations will usually be @1600(+) in most of these :thumbsup:

I agree, use Rotella CI+4 and GM EOS. I had a hell of a time firing up my eng.to break in a Xs274s.One thing after another.(distibuter goof up ,screwy carb,, gremlins). I spun the motor over way too many times before all the bugs were sorted out and was sure I was going to wipe out a lobe.After it fired and broken in never any problems.Still use the Rotella as my regular oil.

Just about to fire up the engine with the new cam. Igot some rotella t about a year and a half ago, how do I know if its the "good" rotella with the zink and ash? And one other thing, whats the good tricks to get sticky retainers and keepers separated?

for the reatianers and keepers
Use a small pencil/extendable(like an old antena)magnet.You can buy them at most autoparts stores :thumbsup:

GM EOS for sure!!!

Are there any reasons not to run GM EOS all the time not just for break in?

"I" - 'J' whats the difference :D
Yeah, stupid fingers hit the wrong key again ;)


Or - just check out most BMW/Harley motorcycle spec oils - reasonably priced in most cases and available at lots of stores.
ZDDP concentrations will usually be @1600(+) in most of these :thumbsup:


You missed where I wrote the 20/50 is 2000 plus PPM of zinc

This is what we used to break in my flat tappet equipped small block:

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/br.html

I've got no additional experience with it, but it's all the shop that did the break in on the dyno use for all their motors. They claimed they never had an oil related break-in issue and the build/break in a lot of motors a year. I'm not sure how many, but if I had to guess I'd put the numbers around 45-60... I built this one, but they broke it in on the dyno...

Can't tell you if it worked on my motor long-term as it is still waiting for the car to be done, but during the break-in/tune, the hp consistently went up from pull to pull, so I don't image the cam was dying... (Who knows for sure, eh?) Plus, there was nothing in the filter that alarmed them...

Also, any opinions or experience on this:

http://www.joegibbshotrodoil.com/

Seems pricey (around $120 for a case of 12) but as much as I have tied up in this car, a small price to pay if it is truly better (for my 69) than Mobil 1 or Royal Purple...

The stuff I bought for my upcoming breakin is straight 30 wt rotalla T, clas cf4,cf2,cf,sf

Even the "new" Rotella has more Zn than most oils out there, and probably sufficient. Add some EOS or break-in additive from the cam mfgs, and you should be fine.

You missed where I wrote the 20/50 is 2000 plus PPM of zinc

No I didn't Carl :noway:
I'm just not a proponent of 20W50's over 15W40~50's for street and mild performance use anymore ;)
The higher 'hot' wieght of oil does not necessarily mean it's better protection for an engine.
There is loads of data from SAE tech papers (and other testing sources)supporting the wieght values required to maintain resonable COF drag reduction on roating HL (hydrodynamic) components, like bearings (75+%) and pump (98+%) while providing outstanding shear protection.
Same goes for ZDDP levels required, there are limits to effectivity by wieght to deliver maximum protection of this additive in formulation. There is no test data supporting levels over @1400~1500 W% ( 0.012ppm per liter) as being fully effective in preventing metalic contact wear of high friction or boundry lubrication areas.
So - in other words 'More is NOT better' ...

But - there's a bunch of posts already fighting over this and I didn't want to hyjack another thread - or is it to late :D

I used to use the rotella..I switched to the lucas magnum 15w40...They have pulled the e.o.s. off the dealer shelf up here in Canada..go figure..used it to break in my motor..now I can't get it to break in the big block for the Nova i am doing...any comments on the lucas 15w40 magnum

No I didn't Carl :noway:
I'm just not a proponent of 20W50's over 15W40~50's for street and mild performance use anymore ;)
The higher 'hot' wieght of oil does not necessarily mean it's better protection for an engine.
There is loads of data from SAE tech papers (and other testing sources)supporting the wieght values required to maintain resonable COF drag reduction on roating HL (hydrodynamic) components, like bearings (75+%) and pump (98+%) while providing outstanding shear protection.
Same goes for ZDDP levels required, there are limits to effectivity by wieght to deliver maximum protection of this additive in formulation. There is no test data supporting levels over @1400~1500 W% ( 0.012ppm per liter) as being fully effective in preventing metalic contact wear of high friction or boundry lubrication areas.
So - in other words 'More is NOT better' ...

But - there's a bunch of posts already fighting over this and I didn't want to hyjack another thread - or is it to late :D

I agree. I have read that same thing about zinc. I think 10W30 Rotella or VR-1 is just fine for my motor. Oil pressure was too high with the 15W40 Delo 400.

Joe,,

You can get the EOS here in the US and I had bought a case of it 2 weeks ago. Also there was a post on a web site,,,GM parts direct that has it listed but with a new part number. I actually had to give this info to the guy at the parts counter at my local chevy dealer. If you need some let me know and P/M me whit your info and I sell you a couple of them.

Joe

thanks Joe...I will keep it in mind...do you have the new part number that gm uses..I will call them with the number and see what they tell me....

Joe,,,Here is the link

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?vc=1&wtype=v4

Thanks Joe..I will give my local dealer a call on monday...once again thanks...