I want to install a new cam this spring ,but I'm worried about the break-in. I wanted to go the roller route for 3 reasons. No break-in, eaisier on parts and more power,but the $1300 price is killing me for all the parts. I put together 2 top-end engines (heads ect)that HAD the cam broken in already and just had to adjust rockers and stuff. I never had to worry if it didn't start the first time ect.... The new motor I got all I had to do was throw the dist in and start. You understand where I'm comming from right? I just don't want to mess up the motor.I guess where I'm getting at is, is there any safe way to do this? Maybe real light springs for start-up? I know about the oil and lube, whats the best? Also the way I look at it, maybe I'm wrong. When adjusting the rockers and you keep turning over the motor (by hand) wouldn't that wipe alot of the lube off? Make me comfortable...LOL .

mnm99 follow the break in procedure and you should be fine. Adjust the rockers to zero lash and then another quarter turn, that way they wont be to tight. Its really not that big of a deal to turn the motor over with the lube on the cam i just try to keep it to a minimum. I can adjust the rockers with only one turn. Just think if it was that big of a deal no one would take the risk.

mnm99 follow the break in procedure and you should be fine. Adjust the rockers to zero lash and then another quarter turn, that way they wont be to tight. Its really not that big of a deal to turn the motor over with the lube on the cam i just try to keep it to a minimum. I can adjust the rockers with only one turn. Just think if it was that big of a deal no one would take the risk.


What about lighter springs? Zero lash meaning no up and down movement or slight tightness when spinning the push rod? After the 1/4 turn would you be able to spin the rod?

I wouldnt go lighter springs. You might want to upgrade your springs depending on how much bigger yuor new cam is going to be. Zero lash is no up and down, yes you will be able to still spin the pushrod and some of the rockers might even wiggle a little after the quarter turn. Best way to adjust pushrods for me is to spin them back and forth with your fingers intill you fell any difference at all(might even close your eyes and have a buddy slowly tighten them up intill you feel ANY DIFFERENCE AT ALL) go a quarter turn after that. Another thing that might help is to hold the socket up about half way on the nut that holds the rocker down. That way you know your not pushing down on the rocker with the socket. This is just the best way i have found to do it and im sure other people have methods that are just as good.

For what it's worth Oil will play a major part ( Rotella ) is the concensus 15-40 and I have read that it's the one with the blue label.

2nd,,, add GM product EOS

3rd,,, Here is the tricky part ( Springs ) A cam will have a recomended spring for that application and sometimes I feel this is where the fault lies. I just read a three page instruction sheet detailing the correct way to break in a CAM.

Add all of these 3 up and you should have no problem with using a flat tappet cam. I have one of those questionable cams that people post over XE268 so lets see if all this precautionary measures pay out.

For what it's worth Oil will play a major part ( Rotella ) is the concensus 15-40 and I have read that it's the one with the blue label.

2nd,,, add GM product EOS

3rd,,, Here is the tricky part ( Springs ) A cam will have a recomended spring for that application and sometimes I feel this is where the fault lies. I just read a three page instruction sheet detailing the correct way to break in a CAM.

Add all of these 3 up and you should have no problem with using a flat tappet cam. I have one of those questionable cams that people post over XE268 so lets see if all this precautionary measures pay out.


So what is the fault you read about the springs? You saying USE the correct springs recommended for the cam? Or different ones?

My solid roller cam ended up at about $1700... but that included a head spring pockets opened,crank,bearings,and gaskets. I found I had 2 wiped mains :clonk:

You could go roller and not $1300. You need to look around. Rollers don't go bad unless there's a bad lifter involved. Used is OK :D

My solid roller cam ended up at about $1700... but that included a head spring pockets opened,crank,bearings,and gaskets. I found I had 2 wiped mains :clonk:

You could go roller and not $1300. You need to look around. Rollers don't go bad unless there's a bad lifter involved. Used is OK :D

Well lifters are around $500 (UDHarrold)
Cam $350 (UDHarrold)
Timing chain $100
Dist gear $50
Timing cover $100

OK, so not $1300. Around $1100 and thats without pushrods and rockers. Also to be honest this isn't my final motor. It's for a couple of years till I build one. I just want to do a head and cam swap. I would like to keep the total at around $1500.

sdparts.com part number sd8060arpm. Have you looked at this yet. You could do this with the right cam and get around 370-390 horse on your stock bottom end. You dont even have to get the upgraded heads if you get a smaller cam. With gaskets and everything it will be about the price your thinking. Cant beet it in my opinion enless you find some good used heads.

Sorry Marc I should have clarified that the CORRECT springs will play a major part. The spring rate: Example
Valve Springs, Single, 1.254 in. Outside Diameter, 417 lbs./in. Rate, 1.150 in. Coil Bind Height

This example is what I would need for my cam application. If you go to Summit racing and find a cam that you like they show the springs that are required and a pdf file of the cam install and proper break in procedure.

If it is $1300 for everything then it is about right (least for a big block), what it cost me for a Big Block Thumpr kit with Pushrods, timing chain, roller rockers, roller cam, springs, retainers and keepers, valve stem seals.

Definately go with a kit saves a bunch of $$$

If you go with any roller, make sure it is a billet core. Mine came from Harold, same prices you listed, it is a billet cam.

Sportsman II heads $880
Lunati 60103 cam and lifters $190
Hartland rockers $220
Pushrods $100
Gaskets $50

At around $1440

I would like to go Alum head, but more $$. Whats a good Iron head that flows as well?

How good are these? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WRL%2D011150%2D1&N=700+4294908216+4294840140+4294889107+4294867081+ 115&autoview=sku The shop is like 10 min from me.

Same here on the billet roller, its always gonna be higher but when you consider what you have already lost previouly and the possibility of another, go roller. You can always use the roller lifters on another cam.

But If you are determined to try once more flat tappet, do what you orginally planned and use some light springs for break in, then you go back to your recommended springs with that cam and installed height. Watch out for coil bind. Lots of cam manufactures will tell you this too, but some people dont listen. Its bad enuff we have to combat the ZDDP issue let alone anything that we think is right.
Look at what happened to JimM. He broke his cam is well, he thought as we dont know really when this lobe wear happened, but he went on to many more miles. He tore down motor and found several flat lobes. So we just have to do all we can to keep a cam from going flat. Its a combination of things all together I have gathered. Its definately not like the old days. Lots has changed.

Same here on the billet roller, its always gonna be higher but when you consider what you have already lost previouly and the possibility of another, go roller. You can always use the roller lifters on another cam.

But If you are determined to try once more flat tappet, do what you orginally planned and use some light springs for break in, then you go back to your recommended springs with that cam and installed height. Watch out for coil bind. Lots of cam manufactures will tell you this too, but some people dont listen. Its bad enuff we have to combat the ZDDP issue let alone anything that we think is right.
Look at what happened to JimM. He broke his cam is well, he thought as we dont know really when this lobe wear happened, but he went on to many more miles. He tore down motor and found several flat lobes. So we just have to do all we can to keep a cam from going flat. Its a combination of things all together I have gathered. Its definately not like the old days. Lots has changed.

I never lost a cam. I just read about the horror stories!

mnm99,

How did the Caltracs work out for you? If you are interested, I have a bullit camshaft hydraulic roller that I purchased for my previous camaro. I pulled it because I wanted a bigger one. It has maybe 2000 miles on it. If interested let me know. I can send you the specs.

Erik

I never lost a cam. I just read about the horror stories!

Well, you did better than most of us, you must be doing something right. Don't change then unless you have problems.

I'm sure you guys know I keep going back and forth between cam/heads and blower...I guess I just need a quick fix, if you know what I mean. I have to stick to my guns. Just got off the phone with JDSperformance ( the place I bought my last blower ). I think I'm just going to hold out till I get the 3 grand for it. I'll be better off in the long run. Thanks for your help guys. I'll keep you posted.

Marc

mnm99,

How did the Caltracs work out for you? If you are interested, I have a bullit camshaft hydraulic roller that I purchased for my previous camaro. I pulled it because I wanted a bigger one. It has maybe 2000 miles on it. If interested let me know. I can send you the specs.

Erik

I didn't get to try them out yet. The center section for my 9" should be at my door when I get home from work. I should have it all together this weekend.

I never lost a cam. I just read about the horror stories!

I never have either, of course I've only broke in about a dozen cams. It's also worth mentioning that no matter how hard I try, I always install the distributor 180 degrees off, lol, so my motors never fire off on the first couple of cranks. Prime the motor if it's new, make sure and wipe the cam lub paste generously on the lobes, vary the rpm above 2000 for twenty minutes (DON"T LET IT IDLE), follow the manufacturers recommendations regarding spring pressure, you can put in a bottle of EOS (I never have), use Rotella and change your oil after the 20 minute break-in. You do all this and you'll be okay.

Well lifters are around $500 (UDHarrold)
Cam $350 (UDHarrold)
Timing chain $100
Dist gear $50
Timing cover $100

Ouch.

Got new solid roller lifters (New) off e-bay (Lunati brand pop-ups) $200
Cam/springs used (3 months) from a buddy who went bigger $250
Timing cover and adjustable pointer $83
Roller cam button $24
Timing chain $ ??
Kept stock timing gear (-8 cams from Compcams it's ok)