HI thanks for advise 60ft times ,have another proplem which is bad and doing me head in big time ,when i put me foot on brake and do burnout i start in first shift to second buy the time i get into top gear have to lift off because car is stepping out rear end
to the left drivers side, track is dead flat,tyre press are even, eaton possi workin fine
I have adjustable snubbers on traction bars that reach under spring eye the pass side has the most preload at the moment any help would be so good
IS it ok to come out off burnout in second gear th400 or should i come out in top gear and hold it flat and drive into trackbite got told incorrect burnout can break sprage in auto ,also why do the m/t street drag radial not produce much smoke during burnout comapred to normal e/t streets am i not revin it hard enough?
thanks once again with all the help this site has givin me to run the numbers i have so far
VICTTOR
VIC JNR RACIN
NEW ZEALAND

I have a TH400 and 4.56 gears, usually only burnout to 2nd gear and maybe 5k rpm just hold it there a little while.

As for only turning 1 wheel I say spool if it's a straight line car. Can't remember if you daily drive your car Victtor. I know you juice, and that's illegal on the street in Australia but Idunno if it's OK in NZ.

Make sure the air pressure is equal in both tires. Get a good gauge that will give you an accurate reading.

when i put me foot on brake and do burnout i start in first shift to second buy the time i get into top gear have to lift off because car is stepping out rear end Install a LineLoc. Rear brakes may be adjusted too tight, especially the RR. LineLoc will not apply rear brakes.

Hmm, most cars in the Northern Hemisphere go to the right side.........
IS it ok to come out off burnout in second gear th400 or should i come out in top gear and hold it flat and drive into trackbite got told incorrect burnout can break sprage in auto ,also why do the m/t street drag radial not produce much smoke during burnout comapred to normal e/t streets am i not revin it hard enough?Get into high gear as soon as possible. When you hear engine load up, release brake and let up on gas pedal at the same time. Pull up to the start line.

Any tire with a harder compound will take more friction to heat them up. The softer the tire/compund, the less burnout time.

I say all of the above, Linelock, spool, get rid of those slapper bars,, go to some caltracs. If the car is a race car only.
Do burnout 2nd, till they smoke, roll out, clean off. stage, lay it on the floor . Got Moose juice?

[QUOTE=zdld17;928029]I say all of the above, Linelock, spool, get rid of those slapper bars,, go to some caltracs. If the car is a race car only.
Do burnout 2nd, till they smoke, roll out, clean off. stage, lay it on the floor against the rev limiter last yellow, hold on . Got Moose juice?

Brake drum is draging on one side

I've noticed that the rear on mine likes to kick out in the burnout. I've also noticed I can control it by turning the steering wheel.

I think it's just torque steer, but would look over everything just to be sure.

If you have a working Posi, both tires are delivering exactly the same amount of torque to the ground regardless of brakes dragging, or anything like that.
The answer is simple. You have more traction on the left of the car. -Most likely from the axle's torque reaction, and possibly uneven weight distribution.
I'm assuming the chassis is straight and tire pressures are even.
Have you checked to see if your axle is square in the car?
Can you weigh each side of the car at the rear axle?

Even with the traction bars you have, it doesn't mean that each is transferring the same amount of torque to the body of the car. Perhaps you need to adjust the right side so it hits earlier, or vice versa.

A well known trick I use is an airshock on the right side only. I preload it to about 50psi which makes up for what the engine's torque/axle's torque reaction is taking away. The benifit is that it doesn't remove any load from the left side, so you end up with a traction increase.
You tune it by accelerating hard and checking that both marks are even, and of course, the car goes straight.

Brake drum is draging on one side



YUP.........Check your FRONT BRAKES ;)

I've noticed that the rear on mine likes to kick out in the burnout. I've also noticed I can control it by turning the steering wheel.

I think it's just torque steer, but would look over everything just to be sure.



Check your FRONT BRAKES too :D

If you have a working Posi, both tires are delivering exactly the same amount of torque to the ground regardless of brakes dragging, or anything like that.
The answer is simple. You have more traction on the left of the car. -Most likely from the axle's torque reaction, and possibly uneven weight distribution.
I'm assuming the chassis is straight and tire pressures are even.
Have you checked to see if your axle is square in the car?
Can you weigh each side of the car at the rear axle?

Even with the traction bars you have, it doesn't mean that each is transferring the same amount of torque to the body of the car. Perhaps you need to adjust the right side so it hits earlier, or vice versa.

A well known trick I use is an airshock on the right side only. I preload it to about 50psi which makes up for what the engine's torque/axle's torque reaction is taking away. The benifit is that it doesn't remove any load from the left side, so you end up with a traction increase.
You tune it by accelerating hard and checking that both marks are even, and of course, the car goes straight.


Good advice but not the problem...........





I've raced many Camaro's in my day and a car turning either direction in the water is usually a front brake issue. Think about it.................. If one front brake is holding tighter than the other what is the car going to do ????? Same concept as steering a wheelie car :D



JMO ......but look at the front not the rear.




bob

I have a TH400 and 4.56 gears, usually only burnout to 2nd gear and maybe 5k rpm just hold it there a little while.

As for only turning 1 wheel I say spool if it's a straight line car. Can't remember if you daily drive your car Victtor. I know you juice, and that's illegal on the street in Australia but Idunno if it's OK in NZ.

I say all of the above, Linelock, spool, get rid of those slapper bars,, go to some caltracs. If the car is a race car only.
Do burnout 2nd, till they smoke, roll out, clean off. stage, lay it on the floor . Got Moose juice?



One more thing............ Always go to high gear NOT SECOND during a burnout. Most trans guys have a fit when they hear of holding your car in second during burnouts :D



Again JMO............




bob

One more thing............ Always go to high gear NOT SECOND during a burnout. Most trans guys have a fit when they hear of holding your car in second during burnouts :D



Again JMO............




bob

What exactly does it hurt to do a burnout in 2nd? With a 400 w/ manual valve body?

My fronts are fine.

I can turn the steering wheel and sway the rear left and right.

I've noticed that the rear on mine likes to kick out in the burnout. I've also noticed I can control it by turning the steering wheel.

I think it's just torque steer, but would look over everything just to be sure.

My fronts are fine.

I can turn the steering wheel and sway the rear left and right.






Do you have line lock or you just smoking the back brakes ??????


I'm still putting my money on the front brakes :beers:


Ive BEEN THRU this too many times before ;)




bob

Check that your rear axle has not slipped forward on one side on the leaf springs.

Had the same problem when I would power brake the car , Installed line locks , problem solved.:thumbsup:I'm going with Bob on this one. Front brake issue:yes:

Had the same problem when I would power brake the car , Installed line locks , problem solved.:thumbsup:I'm going with Bob on this one. Front brake issue:yes:

Locking both front wheels is only putting a Band-Aid on the "stepping-out" issue by not allowing the vehicle to "pivot".
Unequal traction at the rear can still easily exist.

Look at this burnout. The vehicle begins by yawing slightly to the left. As soon as the front brakes are applied with a line lock, the car straightens up at drives as straight as a string. Unequal rear traction still existed in that (my) car when this was done..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTqAHhLni2A

What exactly does it hurt to do a burnout in 2nd? With a 400 w/ manual valve body?On a THM400, second gear sprag, the weakest link.

Also, benefit of going to high gear sooner is making friction/heat quicker in the tires. Less load on any trans in high gear, 1:1 ratio.

years ago, my car did the step out sideways thing durring a burnout. It turned out that the rear axle was not square in the car, it was 1/8" closer to the front of the car on the drivers side.
you need to find a center point under the car and take measurements fron that point to each side of the dif.
I did this incorrectly at first - and measured from the grease zerk on the front control arm -back to the axle, on each side.... WRONG, my right lower arm was 1/8" to the rear, compared to the right(bent)I scratched my head quite a bit, before I realized I needed to measure from 1 centered point in the front of the car, in order to get the axle square to the chassis. At least I found the slightly tweaked control arm, haha! the alignment shop didnt!!!

if the axle is square in the car. the pass side traction bar needs to be adjusted closer to the spring if you tighten the pass and loosen the drivers you should be able to get it to walk out the other way . i have seen cars do this with a spool . the drivers traction bar is lifting harder on the body and is being forced against the ground harder making that tire try to drive around the front .my nova was like that and it drove me crazy. hope this helps.