Ok, my father in law called and his rear drum brakes are frozen. He says he's hit them with a hammer, sprayed penetrating lube on the studs and on the inside. Nothing budging. What gives? Any advice? Thanks in advance for all of your guys' help. This is the best site and I'm now finding myself addicted, and checking every new post. I need help.

Ok, my father in law called and his rear drum brakes are frozen. He says he's hit them with a hammer, sprayed penetrating lube on the studs and on the inside. Nothing budging. What gives? Any advice? Thanks in advance for all of your guys' help. This is the best site and I'm now finding myself addicted, and checking every new post. I need help.

What kind of car? And I have to ask....did he forget to release the E-brake? I've seen this happen before...firsthand:o

If that doesn't work, he may have two bolt holes on the drum in which he can thread bolts into the drum and it will "pull" the drum off.

Old drums develop a lip from the shoe wearing into them. The shoe will sometimes not let the drum come off if the lip is deep enough. You have to reach up in there with a screwdriver and hold the self-adjuster(clicker mechanism) away from the adjuster, while you loosen the shoes with a brake spoon(or another screwdriver).

Also some cars have little keepers on the wheel studs, looks like a cheap E-clip kinda, and usually only one or 2 per drum.

I have had to take a MAP gas torch and heat the drum at the point where the axle shaft is, (center of dum), and it pop's right off. make sure you start a couple of lug nuts on, to prevent the drum from flying off.

They may be rust welded to the hub (if front) or axle (if rear). You may need to use a large puller to get them off. You'll also want to make sure that the self-adjusters are rotated in sufficiently to allow the brake shoes to relax and allow the drum to come off, especially if the shoes are the type with rivets.

Here's what happens: When the shoes get worn down the rivets can/will groove into the drum and will not allow the drum to be removed with the shoes in intimate contact with the drum, hence the need to adjust the self-adjusters back so as to allow the springs to pull the shoes away from the drums.

More than likely though the drums are rust welded as most shoes are bonded these days. You never know though. I've personally encountered both situations.

Old drums develop a lip from the shoe wearing into them. The shoe will sometimes not let the drum come off if the lip is deep enough. You have to reach up in there with a screwdriver and hold the self-adjuster(clicker mechanism) away from the adjuster, while you loosen the shoes with a brake spoon(or another screwdriver).

Also some cars have little keepers on the wheel studs, looks like a cheap E-clip kinda, and usually only one or 2 per drum.Good point about the keepers. I haven't worked on cars for a living in 20 years (decided to put the degree to work) and I forgot about that.

I hit mine with a hammer (after 23 years being on there unused) and they would not come off. So I hit them repeatedly and HARDER. Sometimes they take some persuading. :yes:

If its an older GM with front drums, the spindle nut and bearings will need to be removed. Years ago I really fought a set on a 70 GS without knowing any better :clonk:

On rear drums that are frozen, I use a slide hammer with a hook attachment. Rotate around the drum with a few solid whacks, should be good :thumbsup:

I absolutely beat h-ll outta a rear drum that was on a Cavalier one time!

Sucker was rusted TIGHT!!

And I'm talking 3 pound Ford Tool here, HARD!

pdq67

I have had to take a MAP gas torch and heat the drum at the point where the axle shaft is, (center of dum), and it pop's right off. make sure you start a couple of lug nuts on, to prevent the drum from flying off.
Gotta love the gas wrench!! When all else fails you gotta go caveman on them.

Wow, way more responces than I thought. You guys are friggin awesome. I'm heading over to father in law's place tonight to give him a hand with everyone's advice printed out. I told him about this site and he thanks all of you personally for the advice, as do I. By the way, the car is a 70 Z (Nissan Z that is). Kinda cool for being one of the first "tuner" cars. I on the other hand have an all american, red meat eating, union built, from my cold dead hands, 1969 Camaro. Quite patriotic indeed.

Nissan Z, back then Datsun 240Z, has two threaded bolt holes in the drums for jacking bolts.

The best way is to screw in two bolts, apply some pressure, then whack it good with a hammer. Screw the bolts in too much and the threads will strip.