Removing subframe from my 69 comaro,will remove all paint and rust.Iam going to use por-15, not familar with this product.Got the gloss black,can i leave this as a final coat, and if i dont like can i paint over it?Thanks

Hi...do a search on POR15 and you will find a ton of reading. POR15 is not protected from UV light. It needs a top coat like their chassis black. If your frame gets exposed to direct sunlight for a period of time it can turn greyish. (engine compartment, car shows...) Use the chassis black topcoat before you let the POR15 dry completely. If it dries its a pain to prep it so paint adheres to it. Read all the directions and follow the recomendations of cleaning and etching. Believe me if you dont prep the frame well you will be sanblasting your fame and doing it over. Good luck

I used Por15 on my jeep frame and wasnt happy. I spent alot of time prepping it just like they said to, and even still the paint is flaking off and peeling all over the place. Not to say it cant be done and work well, but for how expensive and how finicky it is, I'll never use it again. Ive been using the Eastwoods Chassis black system on my 68. Havent been on the road with it yet, but so far I like it alot better than the Por15.

I used por15 on subframe of 67 camaro and the inner fenderwells. It works great just prep well and top coat it cause it will fade aliitle if in sun to long. I sand blasted my frame. good luck

i used this product. http://rust-bullet.com/
also it is paintable.

I used a lot of por15. I like the stuff. Some is 6 years old now, no chipping, peeling, or fading. Subframe got 2 coats 3 years ago, looks great.

The gloss black por15 is fine by itself underneath the car or under the hood.

Once it is dry, nothing will stick to it. If you are going to topcoat it, let it dry to "sticky" then just lightly dust on a lil spray can primer, thenm topcoat whenever.

None of mine has peeled. I haven't been very fussy about prep either. Wirebrush or 3m stripping wheel, wipe with laquer thinner, smear it on. The stuf prefers rough surfaced old metal. It does not like anything new or smooth.

If I were you I would not use por 15 or anything like it.
I HAVE FOUND THEM NOT TO BE VERY EFFECTIVE.

Nothing beats sand blasting and epoxy primer before paint.
Exept maybe powder coating.

Just my opinion.

Thanks,
Brian

My suggestion would be to sand blast the subframe and apply a black epoxy.

I personally do not like the Por-15. but that is only my opinion.

Por-15 has been very good to me, the secret is in the prep it has to be perfectly clean.

I have used this on a few projects. The first was a frame off 70 Z. Put the car on a rotisserie and blasted the firewall and entire bottom of the car. Put one coat of por 15 silver then 2 coats of black. I was told that you have to use the original silver first then top coat with your choice of colors. This was 10 years ago and you can still eat off the bottom of it today. The car is hardly ever driven though.
The latest was on a 69 chevelle 29k original mile and original paint car. I rebuilt all the suspension and steering had the upper and lower control arms off and installed new bushings etc. Had the front inner fenders off as well. I only did the control arms and the frame from the front to just under the firewall, the springs, center link and spindles (with the bare metal look) I also did the firewall. I followed the directions to a T. I blasted all the parts that were removed from the car, but did not blast the frame( obviously could not having not have removed it from the car) or the firewall. Everything still looks good to this day, except for one thing. I was told that not even brake fluid would affect this stuff, WRONG! The master cylinder started leaking and dripping down on the frame and everything that brake fluid leaked on lifted and peeled off! I was pretty disappointed with this. This was the only thing I can complain about though. My .02 Good luck!
Travis

I have used both the POR-15 and Eastwood's products over the years and have had very good luck with both. I find the POR-15 to be a little harder finish then the Eastwood product once dried and a bit more chip tolerant. But I will have to say the Eastwood is a much easier product to use. With the POR-15, you REALLY need to follow every step to the tee and make sure your prep work is just as they describe. If you miss a step or try to take a short cut ... Your done.

Let me start out by saying I have never used Por-15 , but in reading this thread and many others , my observations are that you either love it or hate it , it either sticks like mad or flakes off :(. There is no in between ,Also , there is a problem topcoating it after the fact and it fades in direct sunlight , so what's the big attraction to this product ? There are lots of good products out there that seal the metal off really well , such as (insert your favorite brand) epoxy primer with a topcoat of your choice without the fear of it flaking off if you have not prepped it exactly by the instructions (or have) . I'm not knocking it either way , with considering both ends of the spectrum and don't want to have to go back and redo anything because of product failure , I think I'll pass on Por-15 and use a product that I have more confidence in and a better track record of use . This is JMHO and in no way do I discourage anyone from using it . Terry

check the link in my signature. I painted mine with POR. If I could do it again I would have sandblasted and powdercoated. Would have been a cleaner job but I went the cheaper way with POR.

I look at Por-15 as kind of the poor man's powder coat, you save on the $$$ but pay in the labor time (prep).

I took my subframe to a local metal fabricator. They sand blasted the frame, epoxy primed and top-coated it for about $250. I think it was well worth the price.

I have not tried it but have seen a couple of cars at lacal show that have used products like Rhino liner or the other pickup bed liners. Looked OK but I don' know how it will hold up, I would think OK.

Over 20 years ago I sandblasted, prepped, and painted my subframe, inner fenders and front suspension parts with black DuPont Imron with a flattener added. It looks as good today as it did when it was first painted. Imron is old school but looks great and is as tough as nails.